well to add my 0.02 not to diss you im gonna educate you, first and foremost anytime you have a coupler pop off never ever never ever ever ever tighten up the clamp with a screwdriver, socket only.....anytime your pushin that much air pressure through the pipes you wont get it as tight with a screwdriver, now personal recommendation when you have a day, get under your vehicle start at your licp off the turbo when cold spray some hair spray on the pipe put the rubber over it and tighten each clamp up as good as you can almost to the point of breaking, tug on the pipe make sure its tight, go to the next clamp till your up at the throttle body, now for ****s and grins i have an 03 too, too make sure you wont have a problem again for a while ziptie EVERY vacuum line on your intake manifold down to make sure they wont pop off.....
now after you read this, go do all that and report back your cars powered restored.
good luck
dastallion out

 

Today it seems to have a hard time idling after warming up (bouncing from 500rpms to 1000rpms and sometimes bogging enough to cut off the engine)... Still related to a boost leak?

 

Still sounds like a boost/vacuum leak.

 

what boost are you trying to run? have you messed with boost cut delay / fuel cut timers yet? also i agree with everyone else to perform a boost leak test. see here how to make your own: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

 

Thanks to all for your help and I saw that DIY. I would like to do it this weekend, but it looks like it's going to be raining and I have no garage. I contacted Mellon tuning to see if they would have a chance to help me out so hopefully they can find an hour or so to get everything working again.

How often do stock tubes crack or need to be replaced? and if I were to replace them what are some recommendations for replacement parts other than Mitsubishi? (The upper hose alone is over $80 from Mitsu parts).

 

Have any of you made your own tester? I will need a drill for the valve stem to fit into the PVC cap, right? I have absolutely no tools other than a common tool set with screwdrivers and sockets. Ah, if only cars would fix themselves... haha

 

Im gonna say you also either blew off the vac line to the fpr of or it ripped.

The bogging is knock which would mean lean afr. A boost leak anywhere else would cause a rich afr, which wouldnt cause a bogging it would be more of a drag. rich afr= less power in boost all the time, lean afr= bogging and knock which can be in spurts of power no power.

Trust me Ive had every kind of boost leak there is.

 

If you don't want to make your own. Try this: http://www.turboboostleaktesters.com...%29/Categories

I bought mine here. Fast shipping also. I still think you have a leak somewhere. good luck.

 

Enpe , you new to memphis or New to evo?

 

It doesn't really have spurts of power it just doesn't create power after 4k rpms or so. I'm sure it's completely boost related and I hope it's not running lean, because running an engine lean can be detrimental and it's my only transportation as of right now.

 

Both... I moved here mid-May and bought the Evo Tuesday.

 

If you have a garage, some tools and some free time this weekend. I'd pick up a case or throw you a few bucks if you can help me out!

 

Turns out it was my spark plugs, but it is still a little bumpy and stutters a bit around 5k rpm. By the way Chris from Mellon tuning is the go to guy if you live near Memphis, TN!