for anyone that has crankcase pressure issues
Nov 18, 2010, 07:22 AM
#91
whats vta? 
OOPS nevermind....... vent to atmosphere 
im going to do this: http://www.saikoumichi.com/PhotoBorderTemplateDC3.png
except one can will have a air filter on it and then connecting the line that goes to air intake it will go directly to can instead.
then another to interrupt the pcv and intake manifold ordeal.
OOPS nevermind....... vent to atmosphere im going to do this: http://www.saikoumichi.com/PhotoBorderTemplateDC3.png
except one can will have a air filter on it and then connecting the line that goes to air intake it will go directly to can instead.
then another to interrupt the pcv and intake manifold ordeal.
Nov 18, 2010, 10:44 AM
#92
I've already emailed Saikou back and forth and figured out which setup I want to go with and its pretty much the same as the one in your picture above...I like your idea of having a little breather filer on the one side of the catch can that is supposed to go back into the intake...So will you be using the MAP krankcase vents and the Saikou catch can? Will you put the MAP krankcase vent in the line from the PCV valve to catch can or catch can back to the intake manifold?
heres what im doing:
can #1: 1 1/2" breather filter ontop, 1 5/8" nipple going directly to the valve cover where I will drill out the existing hole on the driver side to fit a 1/2" NPT to 5/8" outlet where the can will connect to. If I find I need to drill another hole on the side I will, but im going to try 1 first because JID told me it will sling more oil then if i enlarge the existing hole, since theres more baffling from the factory around the existing ones inside. JIDS a road course guy, and thats about how i drive on road, im WOT 70% of the time with my car because I live in an area where there is tons of open road.
can #2: Not really needed, but going to do it anyways to keep the intake tract clean and keep vapors out of engine bay rather then block intake manifold off. This can will basically just be a middle man for the pcv to intake manifold, instead of having a tube that just goes to the pcv to intake manifold there will be as follows:
oem pcv > map krankcase vent > catch can sealed
then the other nipple on that can will be: krankcase vent > intake manifold
Keeping this side 3/8" no need to enlarge it.
and that is all. This should relieve all pressure, if not i will drill another relief hole in the valve cover and that will be that. im not plumbing it back to the air intake because its pointless after you vent the can, and i know it will make a mess and i read oil particles hitting a turbo blade spinning so fast can actually damage it over time.
If you want cheaper krank vents get the check valves here they will withstand 150psi and 30in/hg vacuum: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...6844&catid=489
MAP Ones: http://www.maperformance.com/kracka-...acuum-kit.html
Last edited by tscompusa2; Nov 18, 2010 at 10:48 AM.
Nov 18, 2010, 02:03 PM
#93
both. im going to put one right after the pcv to strengthen the pcv side so it doesn't leak into the valve cover and im going to put one in-between the can and the intake manifold so it doesn't pressurize the can.
heres what im doing:
can #1: 1 1/2" breather filter ontop, 1 5/8" nipple going directly to the valve cover where I will drill out the existing hole on the driver side to fit a 1/2" NPT to 5/8" outlet where the can will connect to. If I find I need to drill another hole on the side I will, but im going to try 1 first because JID told me it will sling more oil then if i enlarge the existing hole, since theres more baffling from the factory around the existing ones inside. JIDS a road course guy, and thats about how i drive on road, im WOT 70% of the time with my car because I live in an area where there is tons of open road.
can #2: Not really needed, but going to do it anyways to keep the intake tract clean and keep vapors out of engine bay rather then block intake manifold off. This can will basically just be a middle man for the pcv to intake manifold, instead of having a tube that just goes to the pcv to intake manifold there will be as follows:
oem pcv > map krankcase vent > catch can sealed
then the other nipple on that can will be: krankcase vent > intake manifold
Keeping this side 3/8" no need to enlarge it.
and that is all. This should relieve all pressure, if not i will drill another relief hole in the valve cover and that will be that. im not plumbing it back to the air intake because its pointless after you vent the can, and i know it will make a mess and i read oil particles hitting a turbo blade spinning so fast can actually damage it over time.
If you want cheaper krank vents get the check valves here they will withstand 150psi and 30in/hg vacuum: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...6844&catid=489
MAP Ones: http://www.maperformance.com/kracka-...acuum-kit.html
heres what im doing:
can #1: 1 1/2" breather filter ontop, 1 5/8" nipple going directly to the valve cover where I will drill out the existing hole on the driver side to fit a 1/2" NPT to 5/8" outlet where the can will connect to. If I find I need to drill another hole on the side I will, but im going to try 1 first because JID told me it will sling more oil then if i enlarge the existing hole, since theres more baffling from the factory around the existing ones inside. JIDS a road course guy, and thats about how i drive on road, im WOT 70% of the time with my car because I live in an area where there is tons of open road.
can #2: Not really needed, but going to do it anyways to keep the intake tract clean and keep vapors out of engine bay rather then block intake manifold off. This can will basically just be a middle man for the pcv to intake manifold, instead of having a tube that just goes to the pcv to intake manifold there will be as follows:
oem pcv > map krankcase vent > catch can sealed
then the other nipple on that can will be: krankcase vent > intake manifold
Keeping this side 3/8" no need to enlarge it.
and that is all. This should relieve all pressure, if not i will drill another relief hole in the valve cover and that will be that. im not plumbing it back to the air intake because its pointless after you vent the can, and i know it will make a mess and i read oil particles hitting a turbo blade spinning so fast can actually damage it over time.
If you want cheaper krank vents get the check valves here they will withstand 150psi and 30in/hg vacuum: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...6844&catid=489
MAP Ones: http://www.maperformance.com/kracka-...acuum-kit.html
I already have the MAP krankcase vents and used them on my old catch can setup...seemed to work well I guess...I think I am going to change my catch can setup to the same thing as yours...I like not having a line going back to the intake...I wish less oil came out of Hal's oil cap...I wouldn't mind trying to figure out a catch can with Saikou that routed the oil from Hal's cap into it but keep it a combined dual catch can setup...I don't want to have 2 catch cans in the engine bay...
Nov 18, 2010, 07:33 PM
#96
I would love to do a sealed PCV system with a crabkcase return with dual hoses goin to the intake. If you have the vent to the intake higher on the can than the input from the engine the liquids will fall out and drain into the return. If it is a sealed system there should be no extra moisture to worry about getting into the oil and contaminating it. If there is small amounts of oil getting back to the intake you could use some steel wool to slow the liquid down and help minimize that. However having a tight as new stock motor with stock turbo I have none of these issues now so just planning for the future.
Nov 18, 2010, 07:53 PM
#97
no effects pretty much at all. i would like to run closed cans and have the turbo suck the vapors but it will end up making a mess in the air intake and im not interested in dealing with that. if the vented can doesnt work out ill try closed.. i have nothing to lose experimenting.
Nov 18, 2010, 07:53 PM
#98
I would love to do a sealed PCV system with a crabkcase return with dual hoses goin to the intake. If you have the vent to the intake higher on the can than the input from the engine the liquids will fall out and drain into the return. If it is a sealed system there should be no extra moisture to worry about getting into the oil and contaminating it. If there is small amounts of oil getting back to the intake you could use some steel wool to slow the liquid down and help minimize that. However having a tight as new stock motor with stock turbo I have none of these issues now so just planning for the future.
Nov 18, 2010, 08:35 PM
#99
Is the cause of this improperly gapped rings? Im trying to help a guy with the same issue on a 2.3 with only 1k on the motor. I just increased the size of the line, from valve cover to intake. Pulled the metal barb out, drilled the valve cover to 5/8" i.d. Welded a 3/4"o.d. Hose barb on the VC and intake. I don't know if it works yet as I'm waiting on the 3/4" silicone hose.
Last edited by EVO8emUp; Nov 18, 2010 at 08:37 PM.
Nov 18, 2010, 08:39 PM
#100
Is the cause of this improperly gapped rings? Im trying to help a guy with the same issue on a 2.3 with only 1k on the motor. I just increased the size of the line, from valve cover to intake. Pulled the metal barb out, drilled the valve cover to 1/2" i.d. Welded a 5/8"o.d. Hose barb on the VC and intake. I don't know if it works yet as I'm waiting on the 5/8" silicone hose.
Sounds like you're doing what im doing on that end..
1 big can with 1 5/8" nipple on it and venting can. the bigger the breather on the can the more its going to vent pressure .. i went with a 1 1/2" breather on the can.
then the valve cover tapped for 1/2" NPT and then the other side is 5/8" of course. im also using silicone hose also. I dont really need the bling
i think it will work, if not you can always drill another relief hole on the other side and if that dont work then nothing will
Nov 19, 2010, 09:08 AM
#102
FWIW-
I struggled with crankcase pressure a lot before I rebuilt my motor (2.2L big turbo). Turned out to be a well known engine builder gapping the rings ridiculously big (not necessarily your problem). So my problem was slightly different.
I ran two Earl's -6 check valves, one out of the stock PCV area (PCV deleted) and one out of the other nipple. Each one went into a DC3 catch can. Then the PCV side one went back to the intake manifold, and the other went to an electric vacuum pump set to come on at 100kpa (0psi). The pump was unregulated so it would have kept making vacuum until it sucked engine parts out of the valve cover if it could. However, it did not flow enough volume.
This was a $300+ system. I think it was a waste of money. The quality of all the parts were fine. But I dont think anything other than a belt driven vacuum pump will flow enough volume to give you crankcase vacuum under full boost.
MY CONCLUSION-
The problem is volume of gas that can be evacuated. I think the best scenario is to let the crankcase breathe as freely as possible. Drill out the holes on the valve cover as big as possible and route each one to a large breather can. Position the cans high. Check your oil often (necessary either way if you are having blow-by).
BTW-
I've tested my turbo inlet (4" pipe) under full boost. It generated 1psi vacuum. I don't think the little bit of suction is worth flowing oil onto the compressor blades of a $1600 turbo.... then through an $800 intercooler. Not to mention that oil has low octane. So oil in your intake tract under boost is generally a bad idea.
I struggled with crankcase pressure a lot before I rebuilt my motor (2.2L big turbo). Turned out to be a well known engine builder gapping the rings ridiculously big (not necessarily your problem). So my problem was slightly different.
I ran two Earl's -6 check valves, one out of the stock PCV area (PCV deleted) and one out of the other nipple. Each one went into a DC3 catch can. Then the PCV side one went back to the intake manifold, and the other went to an electric vacuum pump set to come on at 100kpa (0psi). The pump was unregulated so it would have kept making vacuum until it sucked engine parts out of the valve cover if it could. However, it did not flow enough volume.
This was a $300+ system. I think it was a waste of money. The quality of all the parts were fine. But I dont think anything other than a belt driven vacuum pump will flow enough volume to give you crankcase vacuum under full boost.
MY CONCLUSION-
The problem is volume of gas that can be evacuated. I think the best scenario is to let the crankcase breathe as freely as possible. Drill out the holes on the valve cover as big as possible and route each one to a large breather can. Position the cans high. Check your oil often (necessary either way if you are having blow-by).
BTW-
I've tested my turbo inlet (4" pipe) under full boost. It generated 1psi vacuum. I don't think the little bit of suction is worth flowing oil onto the compressor blades of a $1600 turbo.... then through an $800 intercooler. Not to mention that oil has low octane. So oil in your intake tract under boost is generally a bad idea.
Nov 19, 2010, 09:42 AM
#103
FWIW-
I struggled with crankcase pressure a lot before I rebuilt my motor (2.2L big turbo). Turned out to be a well known engine builder gapping the rings ridiculously big (not necessarily your problem). So my problem was slightly different.
I ran two Earl's -6 check valves, one out of the stock PCV area (PCV deleted) and one out of the other nipple. Each one went into a DC3 catch can. Then the PCV side one went back to the intake manifold, and the other went to an electric vacuum pump set to come on at 100kpa (0psi). The pump was unregulated so it would have kept making vacuum until it sucked engine parts out of the valve cover if it could. However, it did not flow enough volume.
This was a $300+ system. I think it was a waste of money. The quality of all the parts were fine. But I dont think anything other than a belt driven vacuum pump will flow enough volume to give you crankcase vacuum under full boost.
MY CONCLUSION-
The problem is volume of gas that can be evacuated. I think the best scenario is to let the crankcase breathe as freely as possible. Drill out the holes on the valve cover as big as possible and route each one to a large breather can. Position the cans high. Check your oil often (necessary either way if you are having blow-by).
BTW-
I've tested my turbo inlet (4" pipe) under full boost. It generated 1psi vacuum. I don't think the little bit of suction is worth flowing oil onto the compressor blades of a $1600 turbo.... then through an $800 intercooler. Not to mention that oil has low octane. So oil in your intake tract under boost is generally a bad idea.
I struggled with crankcase pressure a lot before I rebuilt my motor (2.2L big turbo). Turned out to be a well known engine builder gapping the rings ridiculously big (not necessarily your problem). So my problem was slightly different.
I ran two Earl's -6 check valves, one out of the stock PCV area (PCV deleted) and one out of the other nipple. Each one went into a DC3 catch can. Then the PCV side one went back to the intake manifold, and the other went to an electric vacuum pump set to come on at 100kpa (0psi). The pump was unregulated so it would have kept making vacuum until it sucked engine parts out of the valve cover if it could. However, it did not flow enough volume.
This was a $300+ system. I think it was a waste of money. The quality of all the parts were fine. But I dont think anything other than a belt driven vacuum pump will flow enough volume to give you crankcase vacuum under full boost.
MY CONCLUSION-
The problem is volume of gas that can be evacuated. I think the best scenario is to let the crankcase breathe as freely as possible. Drill out the holes on the valve cover as big as possible and route each one to a large breather can. Position the cans high. Check your oil often (necessary either way if you are having blow-by).
BTW-
I've tested my turbo inlet (4" pipe) under full boost. It generated 1psi vacuum. I don't think the little bit of suction is worth flowing oil onto the compressor blades of a $1600 turbo.... then through an $800 intercooler. Not to mention that oil has low octane. So oil in your intake tract under boost is generally a bad idea.
My can ended up being $162 shipped, customized and has extremely good filtering system inside it. i will post up more once it arrives.
Nov 19, 2010, 09:55 AM
#104
good info. I agree and I also read that some oil droplets hitting the turbo spinning very fast isn't healthy for the blades. I am doing exactly as you mentioned, cept im also putting a can inbetween the intake manifold and pcv just so i dont get any oil in the intake manifold.
My can ended up being $162 shipped, customized and has extremely good filtering system inside it. i will post up more once it arrives.
My can ended up being $162 shipped, customized and has extremely good filtering system inside it. i will post up more once it arrives.