4G63T Cyclone vs. 4G63T
#1
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4G63T Cyclone vs. 4G63T
Hey,
SO I hate to say this but last year I crashed my JDM evo 2 in a terrible snow storm. After getting the car out of the ditch I decided to drive it home (2km down the road) not realizing my oil cooler was punctured.
Long story short my engine's toast and I'm in need of a new one. I've been searching all the JDM importers and the closest thing I can find is the 4G63T Cyclone. I've done some research but found a lot of mixed reviews about the engine. Exactly how much do they differ from the standard Evo 4G63T?
I don't want to spend all the money on a new engine if it's not even going to be as powerful.
Thanks
Crazy Cunuc
SO I hate to say this but last year I crashed my JDM evo 2 in a terrible snow storm. After getting the car out of the ditch I decided to drive it home (2km down the road) not realizing my oil cooler was punctured.
Long story short my engine's toast and I'm in need of a new one. I've been searching all the JDM importers and the closest thing I can find is the 4G63T Cyclone. I've done some research but found a lot of mixed reviews about the engine. Exactly how much do they differ from the standard Evo 4G63T?
I don't want to spend all the money on a new engine if it's not even going to be as powerful.
Thanks
Crazy Cunuc
#3
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The only thing I know about the "cyclone" motors is that it had an actuator that would open and close a butterfly in the intake runners to lengthen and shorten them depending on condition. And even then it was nothing that would make substatial differences in horsepower when compared to the effort involved in swapping them in though. It's been posted that it can be difficult to make it run right with out all the hardware which you usually don't get from an engine importer.
From RRE regarding "cyclone" motors;
"This is just a dual runner (similar to Toyota's TVIS system) intake manifold that gave a little better bottom end power IF you have all the electronics to properly actuate the butterfly valves... Yes you can use it, but not really worth the hassle."
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/4g63motorsearch.htm
You might be better off just going with a standard 2g motor.
... or the not so standard 2g motor;
http://www.ffwdconnection.com/20new.shtml
From RRE regarding "cyclone" motors;
"This is just a dual runner (similar to Toyota's TVIS system) intake manifold that gave a little better bottom end power IF you have all the electronics to properly actuate the butterfly valves... Yes you can use it, but not really worth the hassle."
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/4g63motorsearch.htm
You might be better off just going with a standard 2g motor.
... or the not so standard 2g motor;
http://www.ffwdconnection.com/20new.shtml
Last edited by turbolarry; Dec 16, 2010 at 03:19 PM.
#4
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How badly damaged is your current engine ? It obviously doesn't go so what have you got to lose by lifting it out and pulling it down .
I reckon that if the head and block are salvageable you should rebuild it and keep it original numbers wise . If you are lucky it won't have spun any main bearings and it probably needs a hone or bore and hone anyway .
You could also look around for an Evo 3 engine because they were the last of that style of evo 4G63T before they turned it around in the Evo 4 .
A .
I reckon that if the head and block are salvageable you should rebuild it and keep it original numbers wise . If you are lucky it won't have spun any main bearings and it probably needs a hone or bore and hone anyway .
You could also look around for an Evo 3 engine because they were the last of that style of evo 4G63T before they turned it around in the Evo 4 .
A .
#6
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How badly damaged is your current engine ? It obviously doesn't go so what have you got to lose by lifting it out and pulling it down .
I reckon that if the head and block are salvageable you should rebuild it and keep it original numbers wise . If you are lucky it won't have spun any main bearings and it probably needs a hone or bore and hone anyway .
You could also look around for an Evo 3 engine because they were the last of that style of evo 4G63T before they turned it around in the Evo 4 .
A .
I reckon that if the head and block are salvageable you should rebuild it and keep it original numbers wise . If you are lucky it won't have spun any main bearings and it probably needs a hone or bore and hone anyway .
You could also look around for an Evo 3 engine because they were the last of that style of evo 4G63T before they turned it around in the Evo 4 .
A .
I have found these motors at an importer. they say they are for 95-98 Mitsubishi but as far as I can tell it's exactly the same as my Evo engine.
http://www.torontojdm.com/cart.php?t...ategory_id=116
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I havn't torn it down yet but from what I can tell it was making some serious cam noise and definitely spun a main bearing. It sounds like an old diesel tractor at best.
I have found these motors at an importer. they say they are for 95-98 Mitsubishi but as far as I can tell it's exactly the same as my Evo engine.
http://www.torontojdm.com/cart.php?t...ategory_id=116
I have found these motors at an importer. they say they are for 95-98 Mitsubishi but as far as I can tell it's exactly the same as my Evo engine.
http://www.torontojdm.com/cart.php?t...ategory_id=116
Holy crap! $1,700 for a stock 4g63?!?!?!
Get one out of a DSM, same exact motor. The Evo II a 7 bolt correct? I'd say think of this as an opportunity to upgrade to a 6 bolt block and find a built one for less than that $1,700 stock motor. That's just crazy.
You could even build a mild 4g63 with 2g pistons, 1g rods and it will still be stronger, and cheaper than the engine in that link.
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#10
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Have an ask around at these UK websites
http://www.lancerregister.com/
http://www.evo123.net/
We have a few more early Evos this side of the pond, which may help you out.
http://www.lancerregister.com/
http://www.evo123.net/
We have a few more early Evos this side of the pond, which may help you out.
#11
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IIRC, they were more like 92.5-94 7-bolts.
All the 6-bolts that you get from importers are actually galant VR-4 motors, and thats where the cyclone comes from. Somewhere on tuners/talk someone posted a back-back dyno with the butterfly's open and close and their was a definite advantage to having them open up at the right RPMs which for his setup was around 4200rpms.
Ive had a cyclone manifold on my 7bolt 2.4 w/ a 1g head,FP2 cams, and an EvoIII turbo for years and it was pretty noticeable when the cyclone manifold actuator went bad. It defaults to being open, and I found it cause I noticed a slower spool speed and less low end torque pulling out of slow corners (auto-x).
Unfortunately you cant get new actuators here so I ended up changing the way it worked and modded a wastegate actuator to use and DSMLinks nitrous controls to actuate it. Works like a champ now.
All the 6-bolts that you get from importers are actually galant VR-4 motors, and thats where the cyclone comes from. Somewhere on tuners/talk someone posted a back-back dyno with the butterfly's open and close and their was a definite advantage to having them open up at the right RPMs which for his setup was around 4200rpms.
Ive had a cyclone manifold on my 7bolt 2.4 w/ a 1g head,FP2 cams, and an EvoIII turbo for years and it was pretty noticeable when the cyclone manifold actuator went bad. It defaults to being open, and I found it cause I noticed a slower spool speed and less low end torque pulling out of slow corners (auto-x).
Unfortunately you cant get new actuators here so I ended up changing the way it worked and modded a wastegate actuator to use and DSMLinks nitrous controls to actuate it. Works like a champ now.
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