mayberry

iTrader: (43)

Not only that, but I had a built 2.4 liter. Now the car is down, I sold that and I'm building another two liter. So learn from my mistakes, stick to the 2.0 and enjoy the car for what it is. Don't try and make it into something it's not and waste a ton of money.... Like me.

aka.ralliart15

iTrader: (20)

2.0 for right now. If my turbo changes then the motor might change too. im just doing this cause my timing belt change is coming up. Why not kill one bird with two stones?

^^^yes i know thats not the right saying but i thought it was funny

Erik@MIL.SPEC

iTrader: (94)

Please share your experience

aka.ralliart15

iTrader: (20)

yes I want to know what happenned too, to make you change your mind if you already had a 2.4 ready to go.

Broham

iTrader: (10)

rock have you even driven your car yet?

RockmanX

iTrader: (78)

Yes in spirit my friend lol. I need to get new tire as it shredded one on the dyno run and needs to go back for way more power. I need to get my new rota rims and get carlos to powerdercoat them some wild color as well first. Im not wasting my time going down there until its completely done pump gas map and completed e85 no sense in wasting my vac time until i can leave with it completed. LOL i have to pay off this labor bill should get my bonus this month to take care of it completely. LOL i now car will not be release until thats taken care of.

38six

iTrader: (6)

Please provide more info.

mayberry

iTrader: (43)

Well, this is just my experience/preference. So take it as you will. When I first bought my car and decided to do a build I wanted to build an all around car. Something that could do everything. I thought a 2.4 with a smaller T3 turbo (5857) would be the ticket for fast spool and good top end. I enjoyed it for a little while but when we were tuning it I kept noticing the power wanted to climb with RPM. Now we all know MAP spins their drag car to 9k RPM. I wasn't willing to do that with my street car as I don't have the luxury of unlimited funds. Even though I was using their stage 2 block I still didn't feel comfortable.

Then I realized I'd be shifting into fifth gear during the quarter mile. Which also didn't set well with me. I have a Shep ultimate ratio trans with the stock final drive ratio. If I had a 4.11 final drive, it may have been a different story. Also with the rod/stroke ratio of the the standard rod 2.4, I wasn't sure how it would handle sustained high RPM use on the track as I want to continue doing lapping days with the car.

Then I began to realize, wow, maybe Mitsubishi has been doing something right for the past TWENTY TWO years with the 4G63. Leaving it a two liter. See what I'm getting at?

JohnBradley

iTrader: (30)

No, Mitsu also has the car go to 9.5:1 AFR past 7k. Doesnt mean thats right in and of itself. The displacement limit has always been just because of the WRC. Your complaint is not failure related, it can be cured with more boost and flattening out the powerband. How high was the power peak and how high were you revving it?

This is a discussion more about failure or what kit, not is it practical for daily driving. Your post made it seem like you had some hidden knowledge concerning H beam failures. I find it odd it was making power way up high, I have seen 6057s on 2.0ls not peak out at redline.

6057 graph-



aaron

RockmanX

iTrader: (78)

ok basically you were always planning on doing several drag days and events etc but you bought a 2.4. thats wrong in itself. Anybody could have told you if your interested more in straight line preformace lap on lap drag then 2.0 or 2.1 all day everyday. Auto x road coursing street duty 2.3 2.4 although you can drag with a stroked motor of course(mike@awd went 9s on 2.4) but more effective with 2.0 2.1. If i knew all wanted was a drag junkie i would for sure copped a 2.1

38six

iTrader: (6)

Rockmanx I know you luv the 2.4, but you got to take into account it's not the end all be all. Actually running a high HP (> 600whp for ref:...) 2.4 or a 2.3 stroker is more complicated than you think. As hinted at in the quote the chosing of proper gear ratios,final drive, and overall build. Which is not going to be cheap anyway you look at it.

RockmanX

iTrader: (78)

not everybody uses there whip for dragging boss but yes final drive for some reason yes. never said 2.4 was the ultimate motor for sure its not. not going to destroy records on the drag strip. my comment was merely for his reason of not getting a 2.4 if you know thats what the car is intended for then a 2.4 was never the best option from jump street

mayberry

iTrader: (43)

JohnBradley, People wanted me to elaborate on why I made the choice to go back a two liter. I let them know. I understand there's plenty of other things that I could have done, but that's the path I chose to take. I know you have lots more hands on experience with many different set ups and what have you, I just wasn't satisfied with how mine turned out. So I went back to a two liter.

The OP already has some of the essential parts and the thread started to lean in the direction of him wanting to use those parts. So I shared MY EXPERIENCE with MY CAR.

I was in no way acting like I had some secret knowledge, I'm just a guy that plays with his cars. I'm sorry if I came off that way.

mayberry

iTrader: (43)

I had my 2.4 built back when you bought a "2.3" and you thought that was the best motor ever until the shop that's building your car told you it was a 2.4. and that's when you jumped on that bandwagon.

38six

iTrader: (6)

Reread his quote, he's not just concerned with drag racing... And the turbo choice and over all build was not beneficial to his 2.4 build...the cost is much more than expected when you trying to build an overall car using the the 2.4... Alot of things change when building a high hp evo using a 2.4 or a stroker. It's actually cheaper and more reliable to build a complete 2.0 set up, and keep the vehicle relatively balance and just enjoy... Hint: the Mitsubishi engineers know alot more about building motors & setting up the evo than you think.