View Poll Results: Any problem w/ Autometer boost gauge reading zero at idle?
Yes...due to defective gauge



7
14.00%
Yes...but due to install problems



1
2.00%
No problem at all



42
84.00%
Voters: 50. You may not vote on this poll
Autometer boost gauge users please take poll
Autometer boost gauge users please take poll
Did your autometer boost gauge have trouble staying at zero when the engine is off? I've seen a few pics and some of them seem to read a tic below zero. I'm planning to purchase an autometer boost gauge very soon so want to make sure. Please post the model type if you have a problem...thanks!
also...anyone know where's the cheapest place to get the Z-series? I just want an autometer that matches the interior lighting, doesn't have that silver border some autometer gauges have, and reads up to 30 psi...thanks!
also...anyone know where's the cheapest place to get the Z-series? I just want an autometer that matches the interior lighting, doesn't have that silver border some autometer gauges have, and reads up to 30 psi...thanks!
Last edited by SzuChenEvo; Dec 9, 2003 at 12:29 AM.
What do you mean "read 0 at idle"? If your gauge reads "0" at idle then it's broken. It should read between 16-18 in/hg at idle.
I think what someone was mentioning about the gauge being off at "0" is that the pointer wasn't exactly centered in the square when the engine was off.
I had three autometer boost gauges so far, two ultra light gauges one was perfectly centered and the ohter was slightly off of "0" but they both read exactly the same when under boost.
I now have the cobalt boost gauge, which is an electronic gauge. I like it. Although it's not as cool as some of the JP products, I think it looks pretty good. It's also pretty consistant.
I think what someone was mentioning about the gauge being off at "0" is that the pointer wasn't exactly centered in the square when the engine was off.
I had three autometer boost gauges so far, two ultra light gauges one was perfectly centered and the ohter was slightly off of "0" but they both read exactly the same when under boost.
I now have the cobalt boost gauge, which is an electronic gauge. I like it. Although it's not as cool as some of the JP products, I think it looks pretty good. It's also pretty consistant.
Originally posted by 3K
What do you mean "read 0 at idle"? If your gauge reads "0" at idle then it's broken. It should read between 16-18 in/hg at idle.
I think what someone was mentioning about the gauge being off at "0" is that the pointer wasn't exactly centered in the square when the engine was off.
I had three autometer boost gauges so far, two ultra light gauges one was perfectly centered and the ohter was slightly off of "0" but they both read exactly the same when under boost.
I now have the cobalt boost gauge, which is an electronic gauge. I like it. Although it's not as cool as some of the JP products, I think it looks pretty good. It's also pretty consistant.
What do you mean "read 0 at idle"? If your gauge reads "0" at idle then it's broken. It should read between 16-18 in/hg at idle.
I think what someone was mentioning about the gauge being off at "0" is that the pointer wasn't exactly centered in the square when the engine was off.
I had three autometer boost gauges so far, two ultra light gauges one was perfectly centered and the ohter was slightly off of "0" but they both read exactly the same when under boost.
I now have the cobalt boost gauge, which is an electronic gauge. I like it. Although it's not as cool as some of the JP products, I think it looks pretty good. It's also pretty consistant.
the Autometer guages are one of the best bargains in my mind. Why go out and spend 2 and 3 times the money on another guage when the single most popular guage used in proffesional racing in the US is Autometer. I have used them in the past and I've never had any problems.
Originally posted by superz
the Autometer guages are one of the best bargains in my mind. Why go out and spend 2 and 3 times the money on another guage when the single most popular guage used in proffesional racing in the US is Autometer. I have used them in the past and I've never had any problems.
the Autometer guages are one of the best bargains in my mind. Why go out and spend 2 and 3 times the money on another guage when the single most popular guage used in proffesional racing in the US is Autometer. I have used them in the past and I've never had any problems.
I have the 2 5/8" boost gauge and I am very happy with it. Just make sure that you seal all of the connections that you make.A little (Microscopic leak) will make it read wrong. Also use the teflon tape on the gauge.
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Originally posted by MrBonus
Where is the best place to pick up an Autometer boost gauge?
I'm guilty of not monitoring my boost levels.
Where is the best place to pick up an Autometer boost gauge?
I'm guilty of not monitoring my boost levels.
I always use Lane Automotive in Michigan. 800-772-2678 my salesman is at extension 272, his name is Charlie. Usually competitive pricing, always in stock. Make sure to tell him that Darin at DJT sent you.
Mine works great. The red "condom" that fits over the bulb is a perfect match for the dash lights in my opinion. Only two connections you have to make: Tee it into the BOV or FPR line, and connect the power line to a 12V source for power (and ground of course). Burschur (and I'm sure a few other places) sell a little cup to put it in that mounts on the column. Just saw the mounting bolts a little shorter and it pops right in.
If it is a mechanical gauge, and it does NOT read 0 when the car if off, you need a new gauge. For example: If your gauge reads lets say..... 1psi when the car is off, and you running exactly 5psi of boost the gauge will read 6psi. I had this same problem with my first autometer gauge. I dropped it and it was reading about 1.5psi when the car was off.
6.895 kPa is exactly 1psi. When my car was off, my AFC was reading .3 or .4 kPa. .4 kPa != 1.5 psi. You can clearly see that the gauge is inaccurate.
Need i say more? i don't think so. Get a electronic gauge, and don't mess with a crappy mechanical gauge. The innacuracy is just too much for me to deal with, but maybe i'm a profectionist.
6.895 kPa is exactly 1psi. When my car was off, my AFC was reading .3 or .4 kPa. .4 kPa != 1.5 psi. You can clearly see that the gauge is inaccurate.
Need i say more? i don't think so. Get a electronic gauge, and don't mess with a crappy mechanical gauge. The innacuracy is just too much for me to deal with, but maybe i'm a profectionist.


Now it reads a little bit under 1 when off. It makes no difference, because the gauge still reads correctly.