honda-guy

iTrader: (55)

I purchased an 06 RS with engine and drive train already out off the car. i put everything back in the car and the engine fire up. now i need to bleed the ACD.

i followed the procedure i found on here. hold gas pedal down then turn on ignition (don't start the car). pump should come on then loosen bleeder screw to let fluid out.

problem is when i turn the ignition on with gas pedal down, i don't hear the pump running and not getting any fluid coming out the bleeder screw. when i turn the ignition on, only one ACD is lit and i can change ACD setting and nothing happens. after about 30 seconds with gas pedal down, i hear a relay click somewhere and all 3 ACD light comes on.

i'm pretty sure that i have all harness plugged up to ACD pump, there was 3 plugs. is there an ACD fuse somewhere. can i full ACD codes to see what the problem is? the car has 15K miles on it and ACD was working before engine and drive train was pulled out.

thanks,

german_evoVII

It looks like the Motor of the Pump doesn't get power.
The relay clicking is the Pump Relay. Its switching off after 30 seconds to prevent the Pump from damage ( in case no pressure is built ), so it is doing what it should.

The fuse for the ACD Pump is located inside the positive Battery terminal.
50 Amps fuse, Wht red wire

the second fuse there is the Alternator, its an 100 Amps, also same color code and wire size


When you get Pressure, its not done. You will need to activate the solenoid to actually run fluid to the ACD for bleeding.
Easiest way is to power the solenoid by external wires. ( max of 20 seconds, so its an 2 man job.

honda-guy

iTrader: (55)

i'll check the fuse when i get home tonight.

can i hardwire the pump motor for a few seconds to make sure the motor is working (what voltage?)

how do i wire up the solenoid to activate it. is the solenoid next to the pump motor.

thanks for your help.

german_evoVII

yes, you can hardwire the motor for a test ( a few seconds )
Its 12 Volts, Red wire is positive at the Motor connector ( disconnect the loom for that )

Solenoid is the app. 3 inch long, 1.5 inch diameter piece, 2 pin connector at the flat end
12v also, disconnect loom when applying voltage to solenoid.
since it is not easy toconnect with flying wires, its better to have a second person to connect the pins.
Using an very low quality , small speaker wire is the best, because you can slip the wire with the insulating over these 2 small pins easily tomake an connection.

Last part at the pump is the Sensor ( pressure ),its 3 pin connector.
never attach any voltage to this part, nor testing it wit an DVM, because its sensitive as hell.

honda-guy

iTrader: (55)

If I wire the pump motor and solenoid directly, then I don't need to press on the gas pedal to activate the pump, correct?

german_evoVII

do not run the pump hardwired for bleeding!!!!!

only to test the motor of the pump

REASON: the pump controller will measure the Pressure built up in the Pump, so it will not Overrun!!!

Connect all connectors, use throttle to activate pump. switch off ignition after pump stops

Disconnect Solenoid and sensor
Activate the solenoid hardwired and open bleeder ( attach transparent tube, open slowly ) same time for about 6 to 7 seconds
Close bleeder, disconnect solenoid.
Reattach connectors, Ign on , throttle activate pump.switch off ignition after pump stops
repeat these steps until no more air is coming.

Refill reservoir as needed with fresh ATF SPIII

honda-guy

iTrader: (55)

^ wow, thanks so much for the help. it's good to know someone on here knows what they are talking about

it turns out that i didn't have the main power lead connected to the fuse at the battery terminal. once i hooked that up, the pump motor ran normal. then i followed your procedure with running the pump then activate the solenoid. it would have not bleed correctly without activating the solenoid. all the other post that i came across about bleeding ACD does not mention about activating solenoid.

thanks again

german_evoVII

good to hear it worked for you.

you are welcome.

There is a lot of misinformation here on the side, when it comes to "specials" like bleeding the ACD / AYC.
Not many shops tell how it is done properly, some of them even didnt know it and let the customers drive away,LOL

Steffen

fasterbater

iTrader: (12)

I you have an Openport 1.3U cable with pin 9 removed, you can also run an ACD diagnostic and bleed using EvoScan with the cable hooked up to your OBD2 port, making for a "1-man" job provided that you can hold a laptop and a 2 cups of ATF :P

honda-guy

iTrader: (55)

^ nice, i'll have to check that out also. i don't have Tactrix cable yet but plan to get the 2.0 cable.

here's another question. after bleeding, i let the car idle for awhile and fill the fluid to the min level. after shutting the car off and let sit for awhile, i come back and see that the fluid has rise above the max level. does that mean i still have air in the system, since the air compressed and then expand when the pump is not runing?

german_evoVII

thats normal, its supposed to be that way.
there is an pressure accumulator ( the big Black, sometimes Rusty Bubble ) which hold pressurized fluid, so the Pump doesn't have to run all the time.

If the pump builds up pressure until the auto switch off happens, the fluid should not be lower than min mark.

If , after 30 minutes , or sometimes even longer, and not running the car at all, the level will be above max mark, thats normal and not indicating any problem or Air in the system.

So everything is fine now.

Since i am working on the ACD / AYC on an daily basis ( All EDM Evos have the full system standard, excl. RS Models ) i am able to "Hear" if there is some air in the Lines or Cases due to a different sound they make when activating the Solenoid by hand.

Oh, by the way, the Evoscan "bleeding" is using an built-in routine of the ACD controller ( works only with the 1.3U/R cables as far as i know ).
This routine is used also by the Dealerships with the MUT III.
This routine is not the best way to bleed.
Its also an 2 man Job, because the solenoid will only be activated when:

Car is running
Steering wheel will be actuated by more the 90 degrees
Wheels rotate more than app. 15 mph

So, my "direct " method is by far easier and works 100%.
Its also good for an Fluid change.

honda-guy

iTrader: (55)

^^^ sounds good, thanks again for the great info.

pantspuppet

iTrader: (3)

You guys seem to be the experts on bleeding the ACD so maybe you can help me with a couple of things. I took the hose loose from the the T-case to do my clutch install and lost a few ounces of fluid before I could get it capped. After getting everything back together, my dad and I did the accelerator pedal bleeding method, and got no significant air out. The pump ran for about 3 seconds the first time we did it, and the other times, after the system had some pressure, it would only run for about a second. I thought this seemed strange for such a high-pressure system with an open bleed screw to build pressure so quickly. Is this normal? I expected the fluid to really flow out of the bleeder with some significant pressure behind it, but it came out really slow. I didn't really see any bubbles either. I followed Steffen's process for connecting 12V directly to the solenoid last night with similar results. When you guys bleed these, is there any significant pressure/flow behind the fluid or is it pretty slow. I suppose mine's ok because I don't see any air coming out, but it just doesn't seem like I got much fluid out when I bled it.

Also, Steffen, you sound like you know this system pretty well...do you know where I can find any diagrams that show the various parts in the ACD system?

Mr Gears

A successful air bleed after a line disconnect should really spit the air. A fully opened solenoid valve should should release 1.6MPa. You should be able to empty the reservoir in 10 seconds. If you have system pressure and no flow at the bleeder, then confirm valve operation. Its all in the manual.
I may not be expert in world, but I have systematic procedure.
Is pump motor working? (makes noise on full throttle test) If not check fuse and relay.
Is pump motor sound strong and fast? (voltage drop in relay or cooked motor)
Is system operating pressure reached? (fluid is drawn from the reservoir)
Did it struggle to reach system pressure? (should only take a few seconds)
Is accumulator holding pressure? (A good one could hold pressure for hours or only seconds for a bad one. Frequent cycling can cause motor to melt).
Is valves working?
Now you should have a working pump.

MR.EVO00

Bringing this one back from the dead I have three lights on with three lights on or how would I get it to have the three lights turn off so I can bleed the pump any input would be greatly appreciated thanks