ya definatly will do tomorrow. thanks for all the help guys I will throw a post up this week when I figure out whats up and if that fixes my issue

Hey, good luck over there "joseph143" I am over here in Pendelton

 

i removed mine.. theres no ill effects. ive ran up to 42psi on gutted maf last summer.

 

what are all you guys running instead of the airbox, any good sugestions. I trired one filter adapter on my VIII but messed things up and I had to take it off so wondering whats working good now.
also (might be stupid question) all you running real high boost have upgraded turbos right? becuase when I had my 03 the stock one was only efficaint till about 22 psi.
I am still learning the differences of the XI

 

yes higher boost applications are aftermarket turbos 90% of the time.

the best intake for maf would be the silicone one.

http://www.perrinperformance.com/pro...gory=3&model=3


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i think you meant the IX based on your profile info.

The evo 9 comes with a bigger stock turbo then the 8 and
also has mivec in the head where as the evo 8 doesn't. evo 9's
are much nicer then the evo 8's from the factory.

 

Intake air flow reacting against a vortex generator (honeycombe mesh) creates a swirling effect to the air downstream, this flutter or wake is refered to as Karman Vortex, hence the name given to the type of MAF used. The frequencies of the vortices very in proportion to the intake air velocity.
The vortices are then metered against a metal foil mirror, the airflow against the mirror causes it to oscillate in proportion to the vortex frequency.

So just to correct a couple of things, the mesh is not there to straighten air flow but to create vorticies and is an integeral part of the MAF calibration.
Yes you can run without it, but hopefully from the above description you can see why when it's removed you see changes to how you car runs.

 

hey thanks alot for the details "grayw" I will keep that in mind and a very good bit to know.

And for the intake, that is what I have as for the intake pipe itself I just need the upper part and filter that replaces the air box itself. Might see about building that same box at work one of these days soon after passing some deadlines
thanks for all the great info guys, helps a ton

 

i'm still down if you need a new maf.... also a k&n with maf adapter is a decent upgrade for a mildly upgraded evo... 60 bucks and free flowing air... so much better then the 110-220 dollar filter systems...

 

So I took it out all together and finaly got a chance to go driving. It didnt do anything to the way it runs a WOT, still like crap but now it has a horrable idle (hot or cold) keeps trying to dye

 

have you cleaned it (the MAF)?

 

Play with the base idle set screw if the idle dips to much coming back down.

 

no havent cleaned it, didnt even think about that being one of the issues with idle do to it being fine then right when I pulled it out is when it happen. I fount the issue with it chocking itself though. The vacume line going from intake to egr was split so it looked fine sitting there but under boost it was a straight leak, replaced it and it runs fine up top again.
It always comes down from revs good it is only when it is sitting at idle for more than a couple seconds it started idle surging and trying to die

 

glad to hear its fixed.. but thats why you do boost leak tests and not visual inspections only.. sometimes its impossible to find issues by visual that can appear in 30 seconds of leak testing.

 

I would just replace that mass air flow sensor with one that has a good screen on it. Running your maf with the screen like it was might have caused debris or something to get through and damage the sensors of your maf. They are very sensitive and get damaged failry easily.

 

So was it a bad thing to remove the honey comb? Mine is slightly damaged right now and my fuel trims are high im wondering if this can be the cause but im scared to remove the honey comb... The car is my daily driver so i cant afford to have it sit.

 

Hey I my car runns great now. I removed mine and the car ran far worse than before and idled absolutly horable with an acatonal dieing. So I used a small pick set and sat on my couch for about an hour straightening each fin. I was able to get it realy pretty close. looks good but not perfect but will flow exactly like stock again. As I was installing it I noticed a little build up in the maf so I cleaned it real good reinstaly the honeycomb and car runs and idles perfect with perfect afr since. I sugest doing the same same if you can