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honeycomb on front of MAF???

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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 08:08 AM
  #31  
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
Originally Posted by grayw
Intake air flow reacting against a vortex generator (honeycombe mesh) creates a swirling effect to the air downstream, this flutter or wake is refered to as Karman Vortex, hence the name given to the type of MAF used. The frequencies of the vortices very in proportion to the intake air velocity.
The vortices are then metered against a metal foil mirror, the airflow against the mirror causes it to oscillate in proportion to the vortex frequency.

So just to correct a couple of things, the mesh is not there to straighten air flow but to create vorticies and is an integeral part of the MAF calibration.
Yes you can run without it, but hopefully from the above description you can see why when it's removed you see changes to how you car runs.
I'm pretty sure that the honeycomb is not the vortex generator. IIRC, there is a post directly in front of the sensor that generates the vortex.
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 10:30 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by mrfred
I'm pretty sure that the honeycomb is not the vortex generator. IIRC, there is a post directly in front of the sensor that generates the vortex.
yes i believe you're correct. its not the screen creating the vortex its something else fixed in with the maf itself, like a post that sits in the middle and channels the airflow. (vortex generator)

the screen might be just something for safety to protect the maf. i cant really find any details on the screens functionality with a quick google search.. but what you said above is definitely right based on what i just read.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 01:02 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by mrfred
I'm pretty sure that the honeycomb is not the vortex generator. IIRC, there is a post directly in front of the sensor that generates the vortex.
Back after starting this post I found this big long page all about how the air travels through all the different parts of the maf, like the honeycomb part and what not. Although that bar in front of the sensor does create a vortex there was alot talking about how the honeycomb does significantly affect the air, and everything that I read about matched to a T what my car was doing. I tryed running with it out and it was undrivable. Car couldnt even hold an idle. I was all over the place and then sometime it would die. after sitting on the couch for a hour or so getting every fin back to perfect, I put it back in and all those problem were solved, I havent had an issue since. (Maf also got a good cleaning on reinstal which it needed)
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 01:49 PM
  #34  
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
I think the issue is that without the honeycomb, the air density may fluctuate too much at idle speed airflow rates, and this results in widely varying vortex generation rates. Interesting that many people have been able to run without, but your setup didn't like it. I wonder what's different.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 03:29 PM
  #35  
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Rather than using a small screwdriver, find the right size hex key that just barely fits in undamaged hex cells then use that to properly straighten and fix all 6 sides of the damaged hex cells. that is the correct way to do it. It will give much more uniform hex cells as opposed to trying a small screwdriver.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 04:07 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by wizzo 8
Its there to straighten out the air to the sensor. I actually removed mine about a week ago. Only thing that changed was under boost it was about .4 richer. Nothing that a quick change to my afr map couldn't fix
Just noticed my post was a year ago. Im still running good with no honeycomb
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Old May 21, 2012 | 02:34 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by wizzo 8
Just noticed my post was a year ago. Im still running good with no honeycomb
Did you have to rescale the MAF at all?
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Old May 21, 2012 | 05:30 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by monsterstealth
Did you have to rescale the MAF at all?
I have not touched my maf scaling but I did have to adjust my afr map
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