ok....well I am going to do drag racing....
so from what u are saying I should stick with my original flywheel..
right...?

 

also.....since I will be drag racing.....I will be launching pretty hard...like 6500rpms.....
so will there still be a problem of inertia or bogging etc??

 

I think thats your safest bet.. you want a good clutch assembly to provide the clamping force required.. But if you go with an aftermarket flywheel, the stock one is fairly light, so I'd stay around that weight.

 

Its hard to call.. with less inertia you will lose more RPM's before you can move the car.. so its possible that a good launch is an all or nothing affair.. if your not quite in the zone you could drop the rpm's too much and be way out of your power band.

I think if your always launching at the same RPM, and you know that the lighter flywheel lets you get out of the hole without bogging at that RPM, then go for it.. the heavier flywheel will work with you at higher speeds since the heavier flywheel will keep the car in motion requiring less power to keep it in motion (if that makes any sense) THough this particular aspect is up for debate..

However if you do plan on driving the car on the street, I'd certainly entertain not going too much lighter.. You can always ask someone like David Buschur who has alot of experience drag racing AWD.

 

Thanks MalibuJack....
It took me a while to understand what u were saying, but I understand it now.

 

Dave Buschur uses an Exedy that has a lightened flywheel too , doesnt he?



Oh and Mike from RRE: I think what z1 meant by a two piece is a separate clutch and flywheel assembly, not that the flywheel itself is two pieces.

 

I'm fairly certain that his setup is the twin disk assembly Exedy clutch/flywheel package.. I cannot tell you what the combined weight of the exedy setup is, I just don't know.. However I think the pressure plate parts, and flywheel together probably would be close to the weight of the stock flywheel and pressureplate, the flywheel itself may be lighter..

Its not only how light it is, but where the weight is on the flywheel.. If the concentration of the weight is towards the outside, it could still do the job.

I'm certainly no expert on the clutches of these cars.

Oh, and I think Z1 was referring to the two piece flywheels, the friction surface and the crank mating surface are two piece so once the mating surface for the clutch wears out (can't be resurfaced any longer, or becomes damaged) it can be replaced independent of the main portion of the flywheel. THe weak point would be the shear strength of the fasteners (or fastening material) holding it together.

 

The friction surface of an EVO Fidanza aluminum flywheel is held on by 18 Grade 8 aircraft quality bolts. They simply do not come apart. On some older design aluminum flywheels they used as few as 10 fasteners and the friction surface tended to warp up and do weird stuff. That is not the case with any currently manufactured aluminum flywheel I have seen.

You do not resurface an aluminum flywheel. You buy a new friction surface which would be stocked by anyone selling a Fidanza flywheel. They are $50 and can be installed by the mechanic. This eliminates sending out the flywheel to get resurfaced and saves down time.

Mike W