Locked new motor on start up
With the crank girdle off, you can replace the thrust bearings. I've got some pics that I've been too lazy to post up but one rod bearing and one main bearing are damaged. The motor is down to the bare block and MAP is shipping my ACL bearings tomorrow. Once I receive them, the long process of measuring clearances and weighing the pistons and rods will start. Still need to get the crank and balance shaft to the machine shop though.
Thanks, I know if I check everything myself, (excluding the crank) everything will work out. Owning an Evo and not being able to drive it for 39 months can make you very **** about making sure everything is perfect so no more problems occur.
Just an update for anyone interested. My theory on why the thrust bearing locked up the motor is simple. The combination of cranking the motor over countless times to check compression, the new clutch, and the fact that the motor was probably assembled without any lube as far as I know should have caused this. The pressure of the clutch pushing the crank against the same thrust bearing that failed with no oil flow over made it get very hot and worn pretty quick. So the clutch starter interlock will be disabled from now on to remedy this as I never leave a standard in gear anyway but may tap it into the E-brake wire for added safety.
The block, rods, and another used crank have been to the machine shop to get the clearances I want. Everything on the motor is being assembled by me and not some hustling shop from New York so I'll know it's right.
The block, rods, and another used crank have been to the machine shop to get the clearances I want. Everything on the motor is being assembled by me and not some hustling shop from New York so I'll know it's right.
........... Is everyone so sure he should be pointing fingers, simple things like watching oil pressure and disconnecting the clutch is just 101, if the thrust were installed wrong that sucks but I doubt that.
Last edited by Bcity; Sep 17, 2011 at 10:11 PM.
Just an update for anyone interested. My theory on why the thrust bearing locked up the motor is simple. The combination of cranking the motor over countless times to check compression, the new clutch, and the fact that the motor was probably assembled without any lube as far as I know should have caused this. The pressure of the clutch pushing the crank against the same thrust bearing that failed with no oil flow over made it get very hot and worn pretty quick. So the clutch starter interlock will be disabled from now on to remedy this as I never leave a standard in gear anyway but may tap it into the E-brake wire for added safety.
The block, rods, and another used crank have been to the machine shop to get the clearances I want. Everything on the motor is being assembled by me and not some hustling shop from New York so I'll know it's right.
The block, rods, and another used crank have been to the machine shop to get the clearances I want. Everything on the motor is being assembled by me and not some hustling shop from New York so I'll know it's right.
It's been 4 months since I took those pics so I don't remember. After seeing all the issues with this "built" block after checking clearances myself, it wouldn't surprise me. I now do not trust my machine shop with assembling my motor as I took them the crank and bearings when they checked the main bores and they installed the thrust bearings backward. Luckily I check everything myself, their machine work is perfect, that's about it.
Ok, after looking at those same pics on my phone, the side of the bearing that is folded up is the crank side and it's facing the block. So yes, they were installed backwards. Thank you for pointing me back to those pics.
Just saw this post, simple things like a shop that builds these motors everyday putting the thrust bearings in the wrong way are to blame in this case, not the customer.
The guy running TLPs EvoM account is much more understanding than the a**hole I was dealing with before. They gave me a one time offer to buy any one item in their inventory at wholesale price, what they pay for it. I picked up a Fluidampr to put on their block that I had to rebuild so I saved $40 on the whole deal, nothing close to what I paid for the engine.
Needed new bearings, rings, and crank. Later found the block had not been honed making every clearance and ring gaps way too tight. Also, when I took the rotating assembly to a DSM shop to be balanced, 2 of the Eagle rod weighed 12 grams more than the other 2, not a matched set. Engine would have been a nightmare even if it didn't fail on start up.
Needed new bearings, rings, and crank. Later found the block had not been honed making every clearance and ring gaps way too tight. Also, when I took the rotating assembly to a DSM shop to be balanced, 2 of the Eagle rod weighed 12 grams more than the other 2, not a matched set. Engine would have been a nightmare even if it didn't fail on start up.
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