He could get a new one, but whats that gonna do, he still wants it powerdercoated. It still needs stripped right??

Yea, I have little bolts holding my baffles back on. I used red loctite on them. Yes they are exposed to heat, vibration, etc. Just like any other damn bolt on the motor lol.

 

So I just tapped them out with a 3/16 drill bit. There was quite a bit of sand underneath the baffles and I could see how that would have been a problem if I wouldn't have caught this before I installed it on my fresh motor build. I guess the next step will be to clean it as good as I can. From what I hear baking soda and other degreasers sound like the best bet. As far as reattaching the baffles go I will probably go the route of using small bolts and red loctite since some people say that you arent able to weld them back on.

 

UPDATE: We installed the valve cover with bolts and used red loctite on the bolts and they seem pretty sturdy. I'm probably not going to be running for a permanent fix. I'll probably order a valve cover and have it redone. Looks like this time I will be stripping it with a chemical base. Whats the best way to strip the oem powder coat?

 

to remove paint from valve covers use a good quality aircraft paintstripper.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/paintremove.aspx
apply with brush let sit, use plastic scraper, then wash with water.

 

I almost want to subscribe to this so I can read about somebody trying to weld the baffles back in

 

I've had good luck with this stuff when I remove the powder coat from my wheels:

O'reilly and Advance auto usually carry it. I've tried other brands and they all suck.

 

/good stuff there,just make sure you are ventilated!

 

Yep, its nasty stuff. Just the vapor and any over spray will burn your skin / eyes. Use safety glasses and oven cleaning gloves. Stuff burned through my thin blue rubber gloves.