Yes it is still burning oil, but it is hard to say how much after I changed to synthetic oil and the car is still on the dyno. I did alot of pulls yesterday and started with max oil level. When I finished, it was about in the middle of min and max...

 

wow, your using a lot of oil..

are you using the same cylinderhead/ valvesprings & valve stem seals or did you put in something different?

if this is a reputable shop, you have to assume the hone is proper, rings were gapped / installed correctly = didnt forget a rail support or wrong expanders.....

who assembled the engine?

 

have you put more miles on the motor? did it slow down at all? keep us updated

 

damn thats using a lot of oil.. my motor doesnt use any and i beat the **** out of it!

 

Headed to Danmark to compete in Denmark fastest car this weekend and have done some passes today. About 7-8 passes and it have used about 0,7 liters. Still see an oil film on every piston when I remove the plugs...
But the positive thing is that I finally ran into the tens with 10.89 @ 135 mph I am very pleased with it consider I am only running 1.9-2.0 bar boost and finishing @ 9000 rpm in 4th gear.

 

Any dyno sheets or info on spool?

 

I have 2.0 bar boost @ 5000 rpm.

 

I have purchased a set of new rings from Manley and will hone the block again. I have also raised my planned hp goal to about 650-700whp without nitrous. Maybe a 50-100 hp shot a couple of 1/4 mile events a year.
What end gaps are proven to work well in my application?
Manley recommends: ------ Top ring------------- 2nd ring
Blown gas: --------------- Bore x .0055"----------- .0035"
Nitrous up to 150 hp -------------- .006"----------- .0045"

Thanks

 

did you use synthetic oil during break in? I was having a little oil usage as well in my 2.3 after build but I think it was due to me switching to synthetic too soon. i have refilled with amsoil break in oil and have since drove 250 miles and oil usage consumption is slowing down. i would put some good break in oil or a the least some regular cheap oil no long lasting the cheaper the better and run for 500 miles and do lots of vacuum pulls. as long as the rings are good its highly likely they are just not seated well.

 

What are you compression test and leak down readings at?

 

I did use mineral oil during break in.
I did not take a leakdown test. It started to throw some oil out from the crankcase ventilation, so it had to been torn apart anyway.
I will get a torque plate made so the machine shop can hone it with the plate installed this time.
I can not find what grid stones Manley recommends, but I can see Ross recommends 400 grit. Should I use 400 as well?

 

Hm does someone know why Manley recommends less gap on the second ring, while other known companies like Ross, Wiseco and JE recommends bigger gap on the second ring?
Anyone willing to share what you use and have proven to work well in a similar application?

Thanks

 

Manley uses Total Seal rings and they believe that's the best way.

With that said, I've run the Total Seal/Manley rings and the Wiseco rings as the manufacturer reccomends and had no issues either way.

 

I think I found out the answer regarding the engine use alot of oil. Very embarassing actually... When I pulled the pistons out, I noticed the oil rings were "sloppy", and I did start thinking... Hm there was a set of some strange rings in the piston kit that I did not use. I remember I read something about Subaru in the instructions and believed it was some kind of strange Subaru thing and ignored it... Anyway I found them in the piston box and they fit perfectly under the oil rings I think I just blame the kids for little sleep the last 3 years
Now the block is honed with a torque plate and I am ready to file fit the rings.
Total seal recommended Top & 2nd ring gap .022"-.024" with a little shot of n2o so I will try this.

 

good luck man!