AN radiator hoses What size to use?????
Jul 31, 2013, 05:54 PM
#17
UPDATE:
After daily driving my car this week, I found that there is pressure being built up right before the upper coolant hose (-12an), and blowing off the rubber line on the back of the thermostat housing. I have no HG issues or anything of the sort. This for me confirmed my suspicion of the -12 upper line being a restriction. I am going to do a -16an setup and report back.
Figured I'd chime in with that bit of new information.
After daily driving my car this week, I found that there is pressure being built up right before the upper coolant hose (-12an), and blowing off the rubber line on the back of the thermostat housing. I have no HG issues or anything of the sort. This for me confirmed my suspicion of the -12 upper line being a restriction. I am going to do a -16an setup and report back.
Figured I'd chime in with that bit of new information.
just curious cause i have the 12- coolant lines but dont have any issue (knock on wood) then again i only drive my car at night really lol
Jun 7, 2015, 01:42 AM
#21
I measured the I.D. of the stock neck and radiator hose.
Neck measured about 1.3125"
Hose measured just under 1.5"
From what I can find out, you divide by 16 for each AN number. Hoses are measured by I.D. and fitting/tubes are measured by O.D. So a -20AN hose would be 1.25" I.D. HOWEVER, tubes are measured O.D. and wall thicknesses varies per tube. So it could easily be 1.125" I.D. of the tube.
Either way, it's WAY less restrictive than -16AN so you might not run into overheating issues with -20AN. With -16AN, you're talking a difference of 5/16" but with all thicknesses that can go as low as .875" I.D., it can be 7/16" smaller than the stock neck. If you really want to be on the safe side, -24AN minimum. Otherwise, -28AN would be ideal to match the OEM hoses.
Of course I don't consider myself an expert in AN fittings so take this info with a grain of salt.
Neck measured about 1.3125"
Hose measured just under 1.5"
From what I can find out, you divide by 16 for each AN number. Hoses are measured by I.D. and fitting/tubes are measured by O.D. So a -20AN hose would be 1.25" I.D. HOWEVER, tubes are measured O.D. and wall thicknesses varies per tube. So it could easily be 1.125" I.D. of the tube.
Either way, it's WAY less restrictive than -16AN so you might not run into overheating issues with -20AN. With -16AN, you're talking a difference of 5/16" but with all thicknesses that can go as low as .875" I.D., it can be 7/16" smaller than the stock neck. If you really want to be on the safe side, -24AN minimum. Otherwise, -28AN would be ideal to match the OEM hoses.
Of course I don't consider myself an expert in AN fittings so take this info with a grain of salt.
Last edited by Piro Fyre; Jun 7, 2015 at 01:49 AM.
Jun 9, 2015, 12:13 PM
#22
AN sizing is equivalent to tube sizing in 1/16" increments. Not sure if there is a standard wall thickness though or not? I found this out the hard way as there are many references claiming it's ID, but it's not...
-10 is 10/16" OD tube which comes out to something like 0.50" ID which would mean 1/16" wall. Thus -20AN is 1.125" ID.
Pretty sure realistically, -20AN is about he biggest automotive fittings you can get. Above that, you're getting industrial parts that are much heavier.
-10 is 10/16" OD tube which comes out to something like 0.50" ID which would mean 1/16" wall. Thus -20AN is 1.125" ID.
Pretty sure realistically, -20AN is about he biggest automotive fittings you can get. Above that, you're getting industrial parts that are much heavier.
Jun 9, 2015, 04:00 PM
#23
Up to -24 is available readily (1.5" OD)...
http://www.earls.co.uk/earls/hoseends/autofit.html
and here are the size conversions up to -32:
http://www.earls.co.uk/earls/technic...ad%20Sizes.pdf
AN only specifies the outside diameter.. -24 I'd imagine would run pretty close to stock flow if the neck was measured to be 1.3".
I believe Earls -24 stuff is available from Summit...
Thanks!
S.
http://www.earls.co.uk/earls/hoseends/autofit.html
and here are the size conversions up to -32:
http://www.earls.co.uk/earls/technic...ad%20Sizes.pdf
AN only specifies the outside diameter.. -24 I'd imagine would run pretty close to stock flow if the neck was measured to be 1.3".
I believe Earls -24 stuff is available from Summit...
Thanks!
S.
Jun 10, 2015, 12:10 PM
#24
$38 for a -20AN straight/swivel hose end from Fragola or $88 for -24AN straight/non-swivel hose end from Earls though... It's gets spendy with the big stuff.
Braided hoses can still collapse on the feed side. Of course, that's also why you do the radiator cap on the lower pressure side, but I digress...
IMO, go hard pipes on main coolant lines. You can do aluminum mandrel bends and QDC quick disconnects for the same price as AN at that size. Or save a bunch of money with 4-ply silicon couplers and CT clamps.
Braided hoses can still collapse on the feed side. Of course, that's also why you do the radiator cap on the lower pressure side, but I digress...
IMO, go hard pipes on main coolant lines. You can do aluminum mandrel bends and QDC quick disconnects for the same price as AN at that size. Or save a bunch of money with 4-ply silicon couplers and CT clamps.
Last edited by 03whitegsr; Jun 10, 2015 at 12:13 PM.
Jun 10, 2015, 03:53 PM
#25
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
$38 for a -20AN straight/swivel hose end from Fragola or $88 for -24AN straight/non-swivel hose end from Earls though... It's gets spendy with the big stuff.
Braided hoses can still collapse on the feed side. Of course, that's also why you do the radiator cap on the lower pressure side, but I digress...
IMO, go hard pipes on main coolant lines. You can do aluminum mandrel bends and QDC quick disconnects for the same price as AN at that size. Or save a bunch of money with 4-ply silicon couplers and CT clamps.
Braided hoses can still collapse on the feed side. Of course, that's also why you do the radiator cap on the lower pressure side, but I digress...
IMO, go hard pipes on main coolant lines. You can do aluminum mandrel bends and QDC quick disconnects for the same price as AN at that size. Or save a bunch of money with 4-ply silicon couplers and CT clamps.
Hard pipes are a good idea. With the price of big AN stuff at that size, you can do wiggins clamps. Or as stated, silicone couplers. And then you can powder coat them whatever color you want too.
Jun 10, 2015, 08:15 PM
#26
$38 for a -20AN straight/swivel hose end from Fragola or $88 for -24AN straight/non-swivel hose end from Earls though... It's gets spendy with the big stuff.
Braided hoses can still collapse on the feed side. Of course, that's also why you do the radiator cap on the lower pressure side, but I digress...
IMO, go hard pipes on main coolant lines. You can do aluminum mandrel bends and QDC quick disconnects for the same price as AN at that size. Or save a bunch of money with 4-ply silicon couplers and CT clamps.
Braided hoses can still collapse on the feed side. Of course, that's also why you do the radiator cap on the lower pressure side, but I digress...
IMO, go hard pipes on main coolant lines. You can do aluminum mandrel bends and QDC quick disconnects for the same price as AN at that size. Or save a bunch of money with 4-ply silicon couplers and CT clamps.
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