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can i make this build possible.....

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Old Aug 11, 2011 | 02:02 PM
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Question can i make this build possible.....

well recently my car started smoking real bad..... i thought i come to the conclusion of it being a bad turbo...... so i purchased an oem 16g with a ported 10.5 hot side for 100 dollars with virtually no shaft play..... i get all my parts to install it and everything and start to install it the old unit come out without a fight.. i get the exhaust mani off and the number 4 cyl exhaust port is coated with oil...-.- at this point I'm royally pissed and just slap it together.... hoping its just the turbo... i get it together N this jay lopey is smoking worse than it was before.... i am clueless.... to it i am to the point where i am ready to go thru and just rebuild the head... and throw a nice little set of pistons in it and call it a day but i have some questions... first off

pistons: buschur spec manley 10.0-1 std. bore pistons....
stock rods, and crank,
arp- head studs, main bolts and rod bolts
cometic head gasket
hks step 2 274intake cam 11mm lift. hks 278 exhaust cam with 11mm lift
oem valve seals, oem valves, and a beehive spring kit.
acl race rod, and main bearings

when finished i am aiming to get tuned on 24 lbs....

current mods, hks r type front mount, apexi n1 turbo back with res. delete and a map test pipe, map tubular o2 housing, walbro 255, ets lp2 licp, and a no name mbc, mishimoto alum radiator. 4 inch maf adapter with a k&n cone on it....

all internals are stock now.... i am just ready to get this thing on the road again i miss my car terribly.... its how i vent and yeah.... i can't vent too much with a undrivable car...

i would greatly appreciate any advice i can get with this. this is gonna be my first build ever with my own stuff.. i am nervous but hate to say it ready for anything and everything that can and will come up... so let me know whats up as soon as possible. thanks a lot
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Old Aug 11, 2011 | 02:42 PM
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turbo is a stock 2005 eve 8 16g with a ported 10.5t hot side forgot to put that on my current list.
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Old Aug 11, 2011 | 03:16 PM
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The OEM headgasket would be fine for your build, if you want to go Cometic check out one of these guys.

http://www.maperformance.com/cometic...015051kit.html

Other than that your parts list looks pretty good! Nice, simple and will have some room to grow.
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Old Aug 11, 2011 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by sho669
The OEM headgasket would be fine for your build, if you want to go Cometic check out one of these guys.

http://www.maperformance.com/cometic...015051kit.html

Other than that your parts list looks pretty good! Nice, simple and will have some room to grow.
They're an 87mm bore head gasket meant for larger displacement 4G64 builds. Also, every person I've talked to that has actually ran one has had head gasket troubles... Are you actually running one?

OEM head gasket is the most reliable out there imho.

As far as spending all that money on the Buschur Spec JE's, you're best bet is to get a set of Manley H beam rods at that point. Other than that, I think you're on the right track.

One thing I want to ask, are you sure its the rings that are leaking and not the valve seals?
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Old Aug 11, 2011 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mayberry
They're an 87mm bore head gasket meant for larger displacement 4G64 builds. Also, every person I've talked to that has actually ran one has had head gasket troubles... Are you actually running one?

OEM head gasket is the most reliable out there imho.

As far as spending all that money on the Buschur Spec JE's, you're best bet is to get a set of Manley H beam rods at that point. Other than that, I think you're on the right track.

One thing I want to ask, are you sure its the rings that are leaking and not the valve seals?
I was looking into them yeah, haven't personally seen one run though, the idea seems solid though.
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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 09:14 AM
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uh im wantin to stay stock bore.. uh i personally am not sure if its a ring or valve seals.... we did a compression check but i had my head up my *** and didn't hold throttle wide open. and only had one plug out of it..-.- idiot mistake.... but still number 4 cyl only had 50 psi compression i think still it would be higher than that doing the compression check wrong. and it started with a little tiny puff of smoke and then went to all out pouring smoke in like..... 5 mins of driving... i would do rods if i had the cash to but i am about to try and get a signature loan from the bank so i can buy the parts i have listed.... lmao... i am a joke when it comes to saving money but i am good at paying it back..
ill more than likely do a oem head gasket and valve seals along with the 10.0-1 pistons.

as for trying to solve whats leaking where i figure ill just go ahead and replace it while i have it apart.... better safe than sorry i think... sucks having to do all that but man i want a quick one... and oem isn't gonna get me there. so i figure if I'm gonna do it do it right the first time,.... wish i was able to afford a set of rods on there but stock bottom end is good up till like 5-600 horse if i believe correct me if I'm wrong..=s
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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 10:07 AM
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Torque is what kills the stock rods, 450ft lbs is about all you want to push, while you have it down throwing in a set of ARP rod bolts wouldn't be a bad idea for sure.
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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 10:27 AM
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if you have the motor apart why not put rods in.
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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 03:51 PM
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i decided to do rods.... but compression test today revealed the real issue..... 180-162psi on cyls1-3 and number 4 at 50 psi....=[ but i have the whole build priced out now and now its time to save0.0
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 08:23 AM
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Thanks for the referral sho669! OP, we would love to help you source whichever parts you decide on
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