i decided to adjusted the timing on my evo 8, the belt looked a lil loose when i pulled the cover off. so i pulled the timing belt off and corrected the timing and reinstalled the tensioner and pulley and got it lined up and now there is slack in the center of the belt between the gears. Im not sure if the belt is streached or maybe the hydro tensioner is bad casue its all lined up, turned the motr over 2 revolutions by hand and its all good. but seems like its gona jump a tooth if i start it.. should i buy a new belt? or am i missing something
???

 

Please reiterate step by step how you did it. You may have messed something up.
DO NOT start it

 

Can you still put the grenade pin in the tensioner?? And yes please do not start it!!!!

 

Corrected the timing? The timing shouldn't jump if the tensioner is set correctly. The tensioner takes up slack as the belt grows. Since that wasn't the case on your car this suggests the tensioner wasn't set correctly in the first place.

When I was doing my timing belt job I adjusted the tensioner pulley until the grenade pin was loose in the tensioner. Then I let it sit over night. Next morning the pin was a little tight. So, I adjusted it again. When adjusting, if you don't have a tool holding the cam sprockets the belt will jump at the crank sprocket and you are out of time again.

 

If you mean you changed your cam gear timing, and the belt got loose while sitting there... that is sometimes normal. Especially if you left the car in gear and did a few pushes on the front or back of the car to move your stuff to TDC. Did mine yesterday too as a matter of fact, and before I did the initial start up after I changed the gears timing, my belt was HELLA loose. But I knew on the first start, the tensioner would do it's job.... and It did. I just made my friend keep a finger on the belt just before I started it to make sure it was in the teeth, started it up and let it run for 15 seconds, turned it off..... timing belt was back to perfection.

 

im not sure if i need a tensioner or a new belt. the released the pin on the tensioner and it didnt expand out very far. we set the essentric pulley with a decent am tension before we pulled the pin. I might have to loosen the tensioner again and check the hyraulic tensioner before i go waste more money on stuff i dont need.

The belt had been changed by the last owner and he said he didnt get it perfectly timed so i had some time and i decided to do a waterpump and and some cam seals sence the cams were leaking.

 

The pin will hit the hole in the center of the tensioner but wont push all the way through

 

Got my timing belt back on my engine today (which is on a engine stand) and done the tensioner roller bearing to get tension on the belt before removing the pin in the hydraulic tensioner.

When i removed the pin the tensioner didnt move at all so i manually turned the engine over a couple of times then the hyrdaulic tensioner moved and took up any excess slack in the belt.

 

i rolled mine by hand and it didnt take up the slack it didnt even push the arm up on the tensioner. So i ordered a new tensioner and belt today, will be here tomarow

 

then it needs redone.. its not proper. the only way you can assure it has 100% proper tension is if that grenade pin slides in and out freely even after turning the entire assembly multiple times until everything lines up again and dowell pins on cam gears are facing up.

NEVER turn the assembly with the grenade pin in the tensioner, as the tension auto adjusts during revolutions and will bend the pin.

also never relieve the piston in the hydraulic tensioner out to quickly or you will blow the hydraulics out in it.

 

the pin should go in and out freely with the pin removed? i thought the cylinder in the tensioner had to come out a ways to push up on the pulley

 

once the car has proper tension you can turn the entire engine like 6 full rotations or however many it takes to line up everything again and the pin should slide in and out easily .. not hit halfway.. it should go so far in it hits your engine on the other side.

if you cant do this then you have improper tension and if you keep it wrong you will wear the timing belt out quicker and potentially cause damage to the pulley bearings.


let me give you a tip:

when you torque down the tensioner pulley bolt you will effect the hydraulic tensioner position.
adjust so everything falls in place as you do this. getting perfect tension requires the special
tool that threads into the engine. when i time the belt i count rotations on the tensioner rod etc
that way i can get it dead on the money. it takes practice, but you'll get it. good luck.

 

^^^^ This is correct, when you are done the pin should slide into the tensioner housing, through the pin, and out the other side of the housing without using force.