Just had a few questions for anybody that was running this oil in the transfer case...

1) Why would you run this in your transfer case over the 75W-90 oil (stock transfer case)? What benefits and what downsides are there to running this thicker oil

2) Can you mix the 75W-140 and 75W-90 half and half?

I already asked someone and couldn't get a straight answer on it...

Thanks

 

If you want to mix the two, just use their 75W-110

 

Hahahaha didn't know they had that. I've got a whole bottle of 140 and half a bottle of 90 in my possession though so I can mix.

 

in the transfercase and rear i have been just using oem and its fine.. for transmission though i run 75w90 severe gear and it seems to help in really cold days the transmission doesnt freeze up ever.

i didnt see many actually using that amsoil severe gear lube in the trans and im curious why not? it seems to work well. i have about 12k on my shep trans with it so far.

 

I run Redline 80w140. Jon at TRE said to run that weight. I have used Redline for many years. I like it better then OEM cause it is synthetic so it won't break down as easy. Very important when you are running not much more then a half a quart in the rear and tcase.

 

Yeah, there are a few folks running SVG in the trans, i have al few customers running 140 in the trans but with rediculouse torque and running tripple carbon exedy

 

OK so what's the general consensus for running this 140 oil in a STOCK transfer case? Still haven't gotten that answer...

 

Don't run it. Use OEM Diaqueen in your T-Case. Shep recommends running OEM on your stock/built T-Case.


-Bink

 

Good enough answer for me...

Thanks man!

 

NP dude


-Bink

 

it will give you extra protection wether is a built or stock TC don't matter.

but i am wondering why are you hung up on 140 and not looking at 90 or 110 ????

 

So if 140 is better protection regardless, why does everybody still use 90? That's what I've been trying to ask you this whole time now...

You're saying 140 is more protection so why is everybody still buying 90?

 

Thicker doesn't mean better. You want to run the viscosity the components were designed for.

 

i think i have tried explaning this a few times now,, but my apologies if i was not clear.

1. If you are running TQ above 450 and a heavy clutch spcially tilton or exedy tripple where the TC and rear diff see a high load and you are launching the car or racing it this is where 110 or 140 is and could be benneficial as thicker oil acts as a shock absorber between the gear and the ring assy or the LSD worm gears

2. Keep in mind most high quality oils today have a high shear load rating, for example the SVG 75W90 usto be rated at around 2500 lbf before it sheared down, a year ago this oil was redesigned to handle >3500 lbf this number is very competitive

3. Do you need a thick oil to ensure proper lubrication is there, NO you dont this is not the 60's 70's or 80's todays synthetics specially the Group 4 and 5 oils have the ability to hold up to extreme loads allowing you to run thinner oils, tolerances during design have been getting smaller therfore allowing for running thinner oils,,, but has the Chemist Engineers been able to formulate thin oils that can handle the extreme pressures YES is the answer,,, this is why you see cars running 0W20 oil and running it for 10,000 miles



My goal here is help you understand where and when to use 140 or 90

 

Rule of thumb is, never go down in viscocity from the original design, but you can go up in voscocity it wont hurt anything maybe MPG,, again it depends on where are you are in term of being modified and power being put down and what do you use the car for.