hey guys, i need some suggestions on my over boosting issue, my car only has bolt ons, all stock engine and a Ralliart ECU which is program to fuel cut at 28psi. i keeping hitting the fuel cut from 3rd gear to 5th as soon as the RPM goes up. i need some suggestions to stop the turbo from opening the boost so much or any other way to avoid hitting 28psi.

my first thought was a bigger inter cooler, although its not the best solution as il over work the turbo but at least i know i wont hit the fuel cut....are there any other solutions???

appreciate the help

 

I would just lower your boost pressure with a boost controller. You can also use a 3 port boost control solenoid and lower boost through the ecu.

-Pal215

 

i already have a boost controller on but there's no use, all boost controllers are made to raise the boost not lower it which doesn't solve my problem, the second issue is my turbo is using the stock actuator and not a waste-gate so theres no way i can lower the boost. as for the 3 port boost control you talked about, i dont really know how it differs from the boost controller i have on but il look into it

 

check the condition of your wastegate actuator, ralliart ecu TMEs I've seen in the past are running 21 psi. 28 psi is a lot for TME stock turbo. I am having the same issue with my IX in 3rd or higher but at 23 or 24 psi.

What are you using to read boost?

 

hmm are you sure about that ? With my old hallman pro mbc i was able to lower my boost pressure to a very useless 7 psi and raise it to as much as 29psi. The 3 port doesn't really differ from a boost controller in terms of functionality, but it does provide a larger margin of adjustability, esp when paired with a three bar map sensor. You can pretty much just program the ecu to have the car boost a certain way and if it tries to go over it will lower boost. Stock actuator? So your using an internal waste gate correct? That should not eliminate your ability to lower boost. Is the actuator arm binding with anything? This would indeed eliminate your ability to control boost all together.

 

Also keep in kind the turbine wheel in the TD05HRA (stock TME turbo) is not as strong as the wheel in the TD05HR and is known to fail (break) if boosting too high. Just an FYI.

 

yes i am using the stock internal waste gate and im using the Ralliart "rally spec" ECU which boosts up to 28psi, the other "Street Spec" available ECU boosts up to 21psi like you mentioned.

i have an AEM boost gauge on the car as well as a Greddy boost controller that also reads out the boost

i have tried lowering the boost using the boost controller but with no use, i need to get the actuator to open up the internal waste gate some more some how, the actuator arm is not binding to anything but what can i do with it to lower the boost??should i adjust it to open up the waste gate earlier??

 

Yes, this

 

Look you have a funky, redundant, ineffective, and, worse yet, potentially dangerous, boost control setup. Either you should be setup exclusively to run the boost controller, OR, as an alternative, the ECU via the factory BCS should be controlling turbo boost....NOT BOTH, duh!!!!

Your aftermarket boost controller won't work well if it is routed through the factory boost hose assembly and the BCS. Conversely, the factory boost control circuit including ECU control, BCS, and factory hose assembly won't work well with a boost controller plumbed into the mix.

 

i will remove the electronic boost controller i have and redo the hosing as it was originally and see what result i get.....the thing is i cant remember how the original hosing use to be

i recall that theres a pipe running from the lower intercooler pipe to the actuator which also has a T connection to the factory BCS..the thing is where is the factory BCS on an Evo VI??????????????

 

If you have a Mitsu dealer with a parts department near to you then you are set. Or, if not, then you'll have to order online. What to get? Order the factory vacuum/boost hose assembly for your Evo VI.

This factory boost hose assembly comes with the proper "T", and the hoses already cut to length. It has already installed a couple of restrictor orifices inside of the hoses located at exact locations. It comes preassembled with hose clamps even.

There should be a how to install it on this forum, or over on the British Evo site(LancerRegister). Also, make sure that you have the factory boost control solenoid. Otherwise you'll need to order one of those puppies as well. Otherwise there's guys on here that will gladly walk you through the installation process.

The factory solenoid, at least on the VIII's and IX's is hidden under the factory airbox. So, you'll need to remove that to access it.

 

http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.co...structions.pdf

Take off the hoses from the turbo going to the BCS and cap off or use the small hose
To cover the ports on the BCS. Hook up the MBC in the instructions in the PDF. Turn the MBC down and slowly dial the boost up until you hit your desired boost level.
Make sure the BCS is left plugged in to the harness, but put the hose on the ports.

N

 

Another option would be to install a MBC(manual boost controller). Just order one online. There are several good ones. The most basic Hallman MBC will get the job done.

The MBC would be a simple, straightforward alternative mode of boost control if you don't feel comfy with the factory setup. Again we can help you install and set it up. There are how to instructions on this forum as well(see link in novem's post above).

If you decide to go the MBC route, then you will not be needing a factory boost control solenoid.

 

There exists a third, more primitive yet simpler method to set and control boost. If you want to safely drive yor car w/o overboosting in the meantime and until you get an MBC, or a factory boost hose assembly, then let me know and I'll walk you though the steps.

This "Flintstone" method would be just so you can drive your car in relative safety until you permanently resolve your boost control issue. We don't want you overboosting that nice Evo VI.

 

The guy says he has a MBC..I think maybe he had it plumbed into the BCS lines running them together..? You have to use the MBC by itself. Just use the PDF instructions I posted above and go from there.

N