discopotato03

A HKS GT3037S is merely a Garrett GT3076R , the real one , in 56 compressor trim . The compressor housing gets the bell mouthed insert and HKS supply their own T25/T28 flanged turbine housings .
They do those T housings in 0.61 and 0.73 AR ratios as well , actually they often use the 0.73 one for a bit more response on two litreish four cylinders .

Probably the simplest thing to do is just buy a new cartridge because everything that moves or wears is replaced brand new . Usually the housings are not wearing parts as in the wheels aren't intended to touch them .

For thye record the Garrett part number for your cartridge is 700177-5007 , can also be expressed as -0007 or just -7 .
Just make sure you double chech your turbos ID tag for something like 3037 56T or that 700177-7 cartridge number . I say this because there is also a 52 compressor version of that tyrbo and its cartridge number is 700177-6 or -0006 or -5006 . The compressor housing has to be a match for the compressor style and trim size .

Hope this helps , cheers Adrian in Oz .

ottoman

thank you for the info Adrian,

very useful..

so in your opinion, is it not worth the little extra money and get the new GTX turbo?

and have my cake and eat it too

batty200

iTrader: (3)

If your turbo is seeping oil and not touching the housings it is prob more likely to be an engine problem. Check the engines health throughly before repacing the turbo. Seals dont just "blow out". Also if it is a BB turbo which doesnt require a lot of oil and it is damaged you may have oil pressure problems. Good luck! If it is the chra just buy a new one.

ottoman

you have a point Batty..

basically.. the motor is fully built with forged bottom end.. Rods pistons bearings etc..



the reason I think it's the turbo:

I was trying to track down an oil leak in my car.. but couldn't find it for the life of me..

I pulled off the front bumper and thats when I noticed something.

There were 5 small HOLES in my FMIC core... (from stone chips I guess)

I removed the FMIC with the intention of trying to get it welded or fixed somehow and noticed that where the holes in the FMIC was there was also big oil stains around it..

when I turned the fmic on its side and left it there for awhile.. a TON of oil came out of it..

i'm not talking about blow by vapor.. I'm saying more oil came out of the FMIC than the Catch did..

as if that wasn't enough

there was oil pooled in the Cold pipe

AND

when ever I shift and VTA there's oil vapor coming out of the BOV and my intake pipe and coupler etc in the maf area is all covered in oil now as well..

sometimes i can actually see the puff of "smoke" when I shift


but there is no blue smoke or anything exhaust related..



and with 5 holes in the FMIC.. crippling at least 3 of the rows.. that means it had crazy boost leaks.. and when the boost gauge is showing 30+ psi.. god only knows what the pressure at the actual turbo was...



so I feel that the turbo was likely OVER boosted constantly over a long period of time... the smoking etc started to get real bad after a track day.


engine compression is healthy and perfect.. car runs fine and idles fine..
I don't have access to a Leak down tester, so I've been unable to check if the oil control rings have taken a dump either..


when I googled some of the symptoms.. Especially Oil vapor from the BOV... immidiate and unanimous response was always "TURBO OIL SEALS"


hence my conclusion.... :/

discopotato03

30 pounds is getting up there for these turbos , I know people sometimes put big boost up 4G63s but I'm not sure what Garrett rate them at .
I seem to remember reading something years ago about I think GT3067Rs/GT3037Ss being speed limited by the mechanical limits of their wheels and I think it make have been around 30-32 pounds of boost .

I don't want to make this a twin vs single scroll turbo debate but a few think that the turbine inlet pressure will be higher with the singles and very probably add a lot of end thrust from the turbine side .

My opinion only but I think you want to be running the best synthetic oil you can get your hands on and not be shy with viscosity .
Again others will disagree but from what I read the Mobil 1 4T Racing oils appear to have high levels of anti wear compounds and the better Motil sport bike oils are supposed to be good in really hard worked engines .

For the zillionth time I wish Garrett would make available TR30R wheels and components for their aftermarket BB range .

A .

ottoman

yeah man that's why I'm thinking the turbo might be shot...

I guess u agree with me?

poor thing was probably spinning way passed it's designed limits..

Oil wise I use Castrol Edge 5-40 or Edge sport 10-60


never heard of using Motorcyle oil in my car... I do run Castrol 4T in my Ducati.. but the extra additives are there for the transmission since they share the same oil...

wonder what it would do in the crank case..

the problem is i'm losing oil too quickly at the moment.. (like a liter per tank of gas almost)

4T oil is hard to come by aroudn these parts.. so I need to find the problem before I end up switching oils..