runs for about an hour...
runs for about an hour...
I've changed the crank sensor/cam sensor/new fuel pump/adjustable FPR/hard wired pump/battery in the trunk...ran new grounds/...drives for about an hour..once it gets heat in it it stumbles...and dies..try to start it...and it guess makes a bahh sound...turning over strong...I've let it idle for about an hour and a half and it didn't shut off...any ideas??? the mitsu dealer here has been great...give me a engine control resistor to try....changed just about every part ref spark and fuel...nuts.
same issues
Yea I have fuel pressure when the issue a rises....have now changed the ecu....I'm typing as I sit on the shoulder of the roadway. Unreal!
What is cutting out.. Fuel Or spark?.. Have you thought about taking off the harness and inspecting it.. sounds like you have an Ground issue. Maybe also a faulty temp Sensor. sending weird signal to the ECU..
OP if you let the car sit a while will it fire normally?
HAve spark...no fuel...have pressure....I'll check the temp sensor...also does anyone know what the silver box with heat sinks on relates too? It's on the fire wall next to the injector resisitor box.
Ok, run it till it shuts off again. Then check to see if you have 12V on the Red/yellow wire @ the CMP (cam position sensor) also check to see if you have a 5V on the blue/red wire. Check it with the Key On Engine Off or KOEO.
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JdMeVo4,
You hit the nail on the head!!!! Turns out it was ther CPS....new one in, and it's running much better...haven't had the time to drive it for any distance, but my fingers are crossed.
Funny thing is I put this one in Jan 2011...??? is there a problem with them? I've read a few treads on them going out.
Thanks for the direction...I hadn't gone this way because I had replaced it.
You hit the nail on the head!!!! Turns out it was ther CPS....new one in, and it's running much better...haven't had the time to drive it for any distance, but my fingers are crossed.
Funny thing is I put this one in Jan 2011...??? is there a problem with them? I've read a few treads on them going out.
Thanks for the direction...I hadn't gone this way because I had replaced it.
Heat from the exhaust manifolds are the biggest cause of failure(s). Spend the $40 bucks or so and pick up a CMP heat shield. Toxic fab makes a nice one, but Buschar and MAperformace make them also.
Either way Im glad she's up and running again!
Either way Im glad she's up and running again!
Will I drove it yesterday and it drove ok, but it had this sputtering surge while driving. Went to see mu wife at her work so I had a few stop and really starts. I though that it my be the ipw jitters, (running SD) so I pull over to look at the 3 jitter settings. Flashed one and three back to default settings . Started it up, drove for about three blocks, hop on the freeway entrance it hesitates and stalls. So. I pull over and change back to the old can sensor. It gets me about 5 miles and the engine stalls. I get out and start to inspect the wiring harness starting from the can sensor plug. Observed nothing. Put new sensor in and drive for about 10 miles and she stalls. Just boggs down to no power. Its as if it's running out of gas. Damn I should have watch the AFR! I sit for about one hour and drove home. Still feeling the hesitation while driving. Made it home and cut back all of the tape on the harness. I found two butt connectors on two of the ground sides of two injectors! Previous owner....?? I cut them out and added more wire..soldering the connections. Fingers crossed. Didn't see any areas of question on the can position sensor circuit. it continues!! :-(







