ApacheToYaDome

iTrader: (3)

I just picked one up for $50 shipped on the forums. I have a suspicion my IAC valve is bad. I'm going to follow that write up on voltage and resistance and also check to see if it moves.
My symptoms are rough lumpy idle, car dips in AFR's when the clutch is pushed in but only upon coming to a stop. Dips down to 200 or so rpm either dies or I have to catch it with the throttle, afr's dip to mid 10's and when I'm cruising at any gear lets say 5th at 70mph I throw it in neutral and my rpm just drop to 200 and my car either dies at 70mph or just starts to idle like ****. I live in Colorado so there are lots of hills. Coasting around in neutral I average 270miles tto the tank

SuperchargedGTZ

iTrader: (4)

did you ever get it and install it?

wjamyers

yeah. and although my IAC looked old and dirty and failed the function test (it didn't move when switched on and then got very hot) putting a new one in didn't fix the CEL or the high idle. So I put in a new PCV valve and THAT fixed the CEL but I STILL have a high idle. I was having problems the past winter with my choke turning off prematurely on cold days, if I started on a cold morning I had to stay away from the throttle because the first touch would kill the choke and it would stall. That leads me to believe my IAC was already in poor shape so now perhaps the high idle just require the BISS adjust. But I don't have a tactrix cable so that has to wait until I do, plus...

I've been struggling to do a comprehensive boost leak test.

1. I didn't have a way to attach the air hose to the tester. Was trying to fill it and then find the leak. stupid. so then I saw that you should put the compressor regulator low and attach the chuck (shoulda bought one with an air fitting rather than a tire valve), instead i'm going to NAPA tomorrow to pick up a Clip-On Air Chuck:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...455_0006401833

2. Two, was trying to get away without taking off my undertray. stupid. so I finally put the car on rhino ramps just so I could get the stupid trap door off. finally got that off last night. NOW i'm finally ready to lift it on my 24" jack stands, whip off that damn undertray and do a comprehensive boost leak test (once I have that clip in hand).

I think I do have a leak since I pumped it up to 20 PSI and it only took a minute to leak down to zero, even though all of my fittings are quality ETS components with T-bolt clamps EVERYWHERE.


PS, I bought the cheap 5.00 multimeter from HF so I'll test my old IAC for giggles one of these days.

SuperchargedGTZ

iTrader: (4)

probably a little late now but check this out

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/parts...e406584e6c907d

already has the connection right on it.

Good luck man. I think i need to order this valve soon. cant figure out my idle with the A/C on. With no a/C...everything is great. The second I turn the A/C on, car cant idle worth of shiat!!!

wjamyers

Thanks for that, man. I already had a boost leak tester from www.boostpro.net and in combination with the napa clip-on chuck I posted above, it worked like a charm.

found a small leak at the fitting from the intake manifold on my synapse dirverter valve and fixed that. no other issues found. when I started the car after all of that (new IAC + new PCV valve) the car still idled at 2K and had the P0507 CEL, but after two days it learned it's new parameters, the CEL went away and it's purring like a kitten at exactly 1000 RPM. I still need to adjust the BISS so that next reset I don't have to wait 2 days for a nice idle, but, I'm fine for now until my tactrix cable comes in a week.

Thanks EvoM and everyone for all your help.

Ps, pretty sure after fixing that little leak that my diverter valve operates more smoothly than before, I swear, just like stock even with 400 HP.

wjamyers

PPS, i added the silicone intakes 2.5">3" coupler/reducer along with T-bolt clamps to my boostpro.net tester and it was solid. You gotta love siliconeintakes, best prices on silicone and stainless t-bolt clamps on the intarwebz. bought with confidence, parts were delivered two days later, everything sized just right.

davezorz

When I got my Evo, mine was "sticking" and my car was idling at 2,000 RPMs, then would die if I didn't rev it a little. Took it out and cleaned, then never had another issue.

terrorz75

Anyone got the part number for the Evolution X IAC value?
My issue is when I turn my AC on the car flutters then stalls. I got no check engine light. But I've switched on the relays a couple of times already and still no fix.
I'm reading all the threads about the IAC and I'm guessing that might be the problem. So if someone can provide a site where I can but one, that would be great. I looked in Amazon and it doesn't say what year and model it is for.

Thanks

blacktab420

iTrader: (12)

Hey guys , I just tested my iac valve and I dont understand . I checked the resistance and it's fine . I pulled it out to do the clicking test , And it don't click at all and doesnt move in and out .

I bought a new IAC valve from amazon like a couple guys linked . I also test it the same way and it does exactly the same thing .

Could I be very unlucky and bought a non working iac valve ?

wjamyers

Did you ever figure this out?

BTW I found it for $37.49, delivered on Ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370948660318

I was trying to take mine off and pressing down the clip and used my new Craftsman pry bar I just bought in an effort to "save" the clip. The clip took a piece of the IAC with it. Note to self - NEVER use pry bars on cheap plastic parts (mock away).

Called the local Chrysler dealer who used the MD628318 part number, no problem (thought maybe they had separate part numbers), and he quoted me $383.00 plus tax to order it.

BBC

iTrader: (3)

Any more experience with this ebay IAC? Price seems a little too good to be true.

wjamyers

it was delivered yesterday, no time to do anything with it but it looks brand new, comes in box with correct part number and a fresh rubber seal.

fabcas311

iTrader: (58)

Did the chrysler iac worked? I just bought this.....

wjamyers

haven't tested it yet because I have the wrong damn throttle body bolts, just ordered new ones from STM:
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co..._body_bolt.htm


now I have to wait until after Xmas


what's weird is I did the test with my cheesy HF red multi-meter and the old "broken" IAC I still have tested better than the Amazon one I bought that I broke as well as the the new eBay unit I bought. The numbers on those were all over the place pretty much equally. the stock unit measured at 33/34 where as the others were constantly changing 35, 46, 78, 103, etc.


while the Amazon one took a few days for the ECU to figure out, it ran and idled just fine except on cold starts when the choke would seem to disengage before the car was actually warm.


Maybe I need a better multi-meter.


I'll update when I finally get the TB installed again.

wjamyers

Bolts arrived yesterday, finally installed it today. Runs great, chokes well, idles normal, the only problem is when the AC compressor cycles on it bumps RPMs up to 2500 which is annoying at lights, etc. and will interfere with your driving whenever you are coasting in gear. Perhaps my ECU will figure it out like it did last time. I didn't do any BISS adjustment of the new Mil.Spec TB, it seems like it might be 1000 higher than before so I may want to do that soon.