yeah, no luck with this problem fixing itself, idle still jumps up to 2500 when the compressor comes on.

I'm going to switch the IAC back to the original part that may not have actually failed (to be honest I was just chucking parts at the problem) it tests better than these ones a lot closer to the expected result but a few ohms high. I'll hopefully do it next weekend and I'll update after.

 

Well at fisrt, the amazon one seems to run the car very well . But after 30 minutes of driving , the car started to be dangerous to drive when i was at red lights ... When i was to lift off as the red turned green , the car became very lean and wanted to die strongly , Even with the gaz pedal floored . My head was almost hitting the steering everytime ;P . It resolve by itself after a few seconds , but it did the same thing at the next stop sign .

So I removed it ant putted back the OEM .

I did a video of the ''clicking'' sound , i will post it later .

 

FYI , here is what my OEM valve and also the amazon one does . I am refering to the buzzing and clicking sound that a couple guys here mention before .

https://www.dropbox.com/s/oawk5d9wnq...%2008%2016.mov

 

Any updates on this?

Btw, I'm having idle issues as well (P0505 error code) and my car doesn't like to idle at night or when it isn't up to running temp. I have to give it gas when I start it and keep on the throttle until it warms up, otherwise the idle drops down to 200-ish and it dies. When it idles after it's warmed up, the idle either sits at 1450 or 1000 RPM. It also bucks very hard under light throttle in 1st and 2nd gear, and bucks lightly in 3rd sometimes. It usually starts when I hit bumps in the road. The car is cammed, but I don't know what cams are in it. I was told by the previous owner of the vehicle that the IAC has recently been replaced. I haven't pulled the sensor to test it yet, but could the issue I'm having also be from the PCV valve?

 

Any updates to this? It seems that I have the same exact problem.

 

the Ebay one is now 999.99!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370948660318?rmvSB=true
BTW, the update is, I did switch back to the original and it was still worse, so I ended up running the ebay unit and the computer eventually learned it to the point where it was almost perfect but never as good as the original when it was working right.

I think the thing to do is to buy it from Amazon:
but do the voltage test on it as soon as it arrives and if it doesn't match the spec, send it back, until they send you one that does. If mine ever craps out, that's what I'll do.

****, here it is on ebay for $20.90 shipped!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC571-Idle-Air-Control-Valve-for-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-Galant-Lancer-Evo-2-4L-2-0L-/181686343053?hash=item2a4d59958d&vxp=mtr
I'm gonna buy it and see what happens. At this price I can afford to try it a couple of times.

 

After trying everything else I finally dropped the $325.00 for the real thing: http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...r_1450a069.htm and all my idle problems went away. I wasted a lot of time and money trying to save a little money.

 

I'm running my stock IACV again that I thought had originally died. I've had no issues with it since switching back. Went through three eBay ones.

As someone who bought eBay ones, buy OE. It's a huge price tag, but you avoid all the headaches.