So I found out the other day my clutch (aftermarket) is dragging, the sitting in 1st and revving method. The car starts to roll at around 6200 RPM. This isn't a huge surprise as my synchros get a bit ****ty at me if I'm not nice to them. Obviously I'm going to adjust my clutch pedal to try and fix it, and I'm good with that.

My question is: The clutch engages/disengages at just past the total length of travel, is it normal for the clutch to take almost half (or more) the length of the full pedal travel to fully disengage?

Car: Evo IX 6 speed
Clutch: Aftermarket HD Carbon, single disk I think. (All I know about it).
Mileage: Car 37k miles, Clutch unknown.

Any other info that would be helpful just let me know. Cheers for reading and any advice offered.

Edit: update at post 6

 

On Mine (VIII) the only part that matters is like an inch and a half or so... Not sure what that means, but the clutch grabs so it works for me..

 

heres basically what you want:

you know the slave cylinder bolted to the transmission by 2 bolts right? the slave cylinder has a rod that sticks out of it that rest against the fork arm which is attached to the throw out bearing.

What you want to do is confirm you can push that rod in by yourself.. use a towel or something so it doesnt hurt your hand when you try to push it in.. but make sure it compresses in and out all the way. If it does, then you're good there.

Now what you want to do is go down to your pedal assembly where the master cylinder rod is that is attached to your clutch pedal.

The idea here is to adjust that rod out as far as it will go while still being able to push in the slave cylinder rod.. once you adjust it out to far you will not beable to push in the slave cylinder rod and you are blocking fluid transfer from the slave to the master.

so lets say you adjusted the master cylinder rod out to far and you can no longer push in the slave rod.. then you would want to slowly adjust it the other way (inwards) until you can push in that slave cylinder rod again. Once you get it so you have maximum clutch pedal travel and can still push in the slave cylinder rod you have successfully just setup your clutch system for maximum clutch travel and the best settings possible.

what happens is if the slave rod cant be pushed in, that means fluid cant transfer back and forth from the slave and master and the bleeder valve will never self adjust as your clutch wears and it will eventually drag, slip, and destroy your clutch system.

Basically what i just did was write out what is explained in detail on jacks transmission video on youtube.

 

Yeah, I'm cool with the pedal adjusting, I'm going to do it once I get a day off work. It's the total pedal travel taken to fully disengage the clutch that I'm worried about. Ie the fact that from clutch engage to floor is almost half the total pedal travel and the clutch is still dragging.

Yeah, mines about the same. It grabs and lets go in a good amount of pedal movement. What I'm worried about is that the clutch still doesn't fully disengage after quite a bit more pedal movement.

 

Bump. Anyone?

 

Bump. The clutch has been adjusted as far as the slave cylinder will allow, quite close to the end of the thread on the clutch pedal. Huge improvement.

However the clutch still drags, only it drags at 7500+ RPM. Anyone got any advice for that?

 

this is a bit of thread revival, but if you havent solved this problem yet, you can try getting a longer push rod for your clutch slave (the one in the slave cylinder that actually physically pushes on the fork

 

Good job getting your post count up....