What turbo should I get
Dec 24, 2011, 09:15 AM
#16
Yea if you want big power there is no other turbo to go with besides the 3586. That is the turbo I am upgrading to once I build my engine. I figure a good 30-50whp increase just from the turbo alone from my standard 3582. Auto X is boring unless you have a pretty much stock turbo setup or something that spools really fast. Well at least the Auto X courses around here anyway. The hill climbs I have run were fun, but very taxing on the engine. I think a road course would be slightly easier on the engine as long as you keep the tune in check. No max power 680whp tunes for road racing. Probably detune to whatever around 27psi would get you.
Dec 25, 2011, 02:38 PM
#18
Evolved Member
well op do you plan to do the install yourself, reason i ask if your budget is 7 to 8k, just the shortblock head and turbo by itself will be at least 8k, factor in those other parts and having someone put it together and tune it your prolly looking at 12k with everything give or take, my advice, do the head the turbo cams and supporting mods, ride it out on pump gas until you can swing a shortblock because on pump gas you can still have a fun DD, without prematurely tankin the engine. If 500-600 is your end goal, go fp black or an equivalent turbo. With cams full boltons and that better flowing head, you should make easily 400-500 on pump gas. without going to much overhead into debt.
Dec 26, 2011, 06:57 AM
#19
well op do you plan to do the install yourself, reason i ask if your budget is 7 to 8k, just the shortblock head and turbo by itself will be at least 8k, factor in those other parts and having someone put it together and tune it your prolly looking at 12k with everything give or take, my advice, do the head the turbo cams and supporting mods, ride it out on pump gas until you can swing a shortblock because on pump gas you can still have a fun DD, without prematurely tankin the engine. If 500-600 is your end goal, go fp black or an equivalent turbo. With cams full boltons and that better flowing head, you should make easily 400-500 on pump gas. without going to much overhead into debt.
Dec 26, 2011, 01:30 PM
#20
Where are you deploying as it is always nice to chat with a fellow EVO brother downrange?
I have to agree with my brother a few posts back about your budget of $7-8K.
Stage 3 head: $1,700
Cams: $500
Injectors: $375
Fuel pump: $200
Fuel rail: $100
AFPR: $200
Transmission: $1,500
Shortblock: $3,000
Intercooler: $500
Headstuds: $100
Stock frame turbo: +/- $2,200
Clutch: $1,000
Intake manifold: $500
Exhaust manifold: $500
These are all on the low side for quotes and you are looking at a price (before labor) of roughly $12,575.
I see that you have recently joined and there is something that you always have to keep in mind: DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME.
You have to decide without question what the end state of your EVO is and build and make decisions with that in mind.
A manageable 500whp for a daily driver is plenty and there have been many to do that on the stock block with conservative tunes. Once you get into that 600whp+ range is when things start to break nearly all the time.
I have to agree with my brother a few posts back about your budget of $7-8K.
Stage 3 head: $1,700
Cams: $500
Injectors: $375
Fuel pump: $200
Fuel rail: $100
AFPR: $200
Transmission: $1,500
Shortblock: $3,000
Intercooler: $500
Headstuds: $100
Stock frame turbo: +/- $2,200
Clutch: $1,000
Intake manifold: $500
Exhaust manifold: $500
These are all on the low side for quotes and you are looking at a price (before labor) of roughly $12,575.
I see that you have recently joined and there is something that you always have to keep in mind: DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME.
You have to decide without question what the end state of your EVO is and build and make decisions with that in mind.
A manageable 500whp for a daily driver is plenty and there have been many to do that on the stock block with conservative tunes. Once you get into that 600whp+ range is when things start to break nearly all the time.
Last edited by Levar; Dec 26, 2011 at 01:50 PM.
Dec 26, 2011, 07:19 PM
#23
I ran 550whp on a stock block for 2 years and Aaron@ER ran 600whp on the stock block for 2 years. Neither of us blew our motors just decided to build because I wanted over 700whp and he wanted over 800whp. The stock block is very stout, run it till it pops 
Your tuner will know how to keep the stock block together!
Mikey
Your tuner will know how to keep the stock block together!
Mikey
Dec 27, 2011, 02:12 PM
#24
Where are you deploying as it is always nice to chat with a fellow EVO brother downrange?
I have to agree with my brother a few posts back about your budget of $7-8K.
Stage 3 head: $1,700
Cams: $500
Injectors: $375
Fuel pump: $200
Fuel rail: $100
AFPR: $200
Transmission: $1,500
Shortblock: $3,000
Intercooler: $500
Headstuds: $100
Stock frame turbo: +/- $2,200
Clutch: $1,000
Intake manifold: $500
Exhaust manifold: $500
These are all on the low side for quotes and you are looking at a price (before labor) of roughly $12,575.
I see that you have recently joined and there is something that you always have to keep in mind: DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME.
You have to decide without question what the end state of your EVO is and build and make decisions with that in mind.
A manageable 500whp for a daily driver is plenty and there have been many to do that on the stock block with conservative tunes. Once you get into that 600whp+ range is when things start to break nearly all the time.
I have to agree with my brother a few posts back about your budget of $7-8K.
Stage 3 head: $1,700
Cams: $500
Injectors: $375
Fuel pump: $200
Fuel rail: $100
AFPR: $200
Transmission: $1,500
Shortblock: $3,000
Intercooler: $500
Headstuds: $100
Stock frame turbo: +/- $2,200
Clutch: $1,000
Intake manifold: $500
Exhaust manifold: $500
These are all on the low side for quotes and you are looking at a price (before labor) of roughly $12,575.
I see that you have recently joined and there is something that you always have to keep in mind: DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME.
You have to decide without question what the end state of your EVO is and build and make decisions with that in mind.
A manageable 500whp for a daily driver is plenty and there have been many to do that on the stock block with conservative tunes. Once you get into that 600whp+ range is when things start to break nearly all the time.
Dec 27, 2011, 02:16 PM
#25
I ran 550whp on a stock block for 2 years and Aaron@ER ran 600whp on the stock block for 2 years. Neither of us blew our motors just decided to build because I wanted over 700whp and he wanted over 800whp. The stock block is very stout, run it till it pops
Your tuner will know how to keep the stock block together!
Mikey
Your tuner will know how to keep the stock block together!
Mikey
Dec 27, 2011, 06:22 PM
#27
Have you autocrossed before? Have you done a track event before?
Leave the car pretty much alone, try some of that, and see if you still want power. Lots of power makes autocross harder (because you are going to end up in a harder class) and makes road course stuff harder (because you need to bleed off all the speed you add in the straights).
The car is pretty awesome even with really mild mods...
Leave the car pretty much alone, try some of that, and see if you still want power. Lots of power makes autocross harder (because you are going to end up in a harder class) and makes road course stuff harder (because you need to bleed off all the speed you add in the straights).
The car is pretty awesome even with really mild mods...
Jan 1, 2012, 01:11 PM
#29
Have you autocrossed before? Have you done a track event before?
Leave the car pretty much alone, try some of that, and see if you still want power. Lots of power makes autocross harder (because you are going to end up in a harder class) and makes road course stuff harder (because you need to bleed off all the speed you add in the straights).
The car is pretty awesome even with really mild mods...
Leave the car pretty much alone, try some of that, and see if you still want power. Lots of power makes autocross harder (because you are going to end up in a harder class) and makes road course stuff harder (because you need to bleed off all the speed you add in the straights).
The car is pretty awesome even with really mild mods...