Not the way i wanted to start of the 2012 season!

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Feb 6, 2012 | 07:57 AM

#61

SparkTech

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From: florida

Quote:

Originally Posted by R/TErnie

Why run a hotter plug that cannot control it's thermal condition? It's illogical not to run a colder plug. Maybe it's not the reason that you junked your engine, but I'm sure it's not helping.

Feb 7, 2012 | 05:47 PM

#62

JC evo1

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Joined: Jan 2008

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From: Australia

Quote:

Originally Posted by domestickillaAR

correct Ernie the part numbers i posted are for the Racing plugs but from what the NGK tech was telling for the levels of boost alot of us are pushing and the metals the other plugs are made out of he wasnt surprised to hear them melting. pretty much said they wernt designed fot that type of use.

Makes sense to use the right plug for the application. Its not suprising people are having isues with plugs designed for street cars in racing conditions. We put so much of our hard earned $ into these engines yet why do we cheap out on such an important component? 99% of people on here can probably get away with the regular plugs but it makes sense to use the best plug available with higher heat tolerances and less susceptibly to something falling off or melting.

Quote:

Originally Posted by domestickillaAR

ive got a plug they recommended for me on the way also that i guess doesnt have an electrode strap at all... im curious to see these..

Looking at the ngk catalogue they are called surface discharge. http://www.ngk.com/more_info.asp?AAIA=&pid=3775
"Racing surface discharge plugs may be necessary in high compression applications or when valve/piston clearance does not allow for a ground strap and a retracted tip plug is not appropriate due to insulator/tip exposure. While they are nearly immune to preignition, they can be susceptible to fouling when used in colder applications. NGK surface gap plugs are hand made in Japan and constructed to withstand the most extreme racing environments."

After reading the tech info these are probably an extreme choice, the other options are the iridium BR-X-EIX or the racing version 7376 - X, where X substitute heat range.
http://www.ngk.com/more_info.asp?AAIA=&pid=16895
http://www.ngk.com/more_info.asp?AAIA=&pid=2451
These are both for E1-8/dsm not E9. If you have a look through the NGK race catalogue notice none of the racing plugs have a projected tip, you can get the non-racing iridiums in both versions though. What works for a a 400whp daily driver is not going to need the same plug as someone who makes 700hp and drag races on the weekend or someone who circuit races for 30 mins at a time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by domestickillaAR

I know guys freak at paying 50 bucks a plug but if your spending 40-50 bucks every 2500-3000 miles these plugs would pay for themselves in the long run.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PATRICK B.

Those race plugs may be a bit too much for how often i do change plugs so i will probably go with the Denso IKH24's as rec'd by Craig @ Sparktech.
:

Quote:

Originally Posted by domestickillaAR

Your very welcome Pat your situation as well as Joey and others really made me want to investigate the situation more n who else better to call then the company. We spend so much money on these cars n make the power levels we do it crazy how sometimes we can over look something as simple as a spark plug. im building my car on a budget n have now racked up about 30k in parts i would be sick to my stomach if i lost a motor for the same reason you did.

Now the Tech told me Granted i gave him the modle number you posted n he said that was far too hot of a plug for your setup (i dont know your car but for your HP numbers and the times you run im guessing your in the 37-40psi range you really need to use a plug that doesnt protrude into the cylinder as far n the one i suggest altho pricey would def fix your prob as it only protrudes out .5 (im guessing mm) as opposed to 3.5 like the plug you were useing

Another thing i asked the rep was is this plug good for different boost levels or is it only suitable for high boost and alot of power incase we didnt want to run out cars cranked up all the time.. H informed me that you could safly turn boost down to about 27psi for dailly driving use and not have to worry about fuel fouling the plug but they definatly like being run hard..

Thats good info domestickilla and all it took was to make one phone call to the company that makes the part, I agree with everything you've said. Ive never ran the racing plugs so I don't know how long they last but it should be alot longer than regular plugs if the tune is good. If you can get away with using normal plugs and changing them more often thats fine but as you said using a better plug may not be much more expensive in the long run and should have a higher safety margin. Using the cheapest part that works is good, until it breaks. Its like building a motor with eagle rods and 4032 pistons and cranking the power up to 700hp, it may run fine for a while, until something like a small overboost or slight detonation kills it. A bigger safety margin is a good thing.

Everyone should read the NGK tech info, it pretty much covers everything. Call them up and see what they recommend and go from there.
http://www.ngk.com/search_char.asp
http://www.ngk.com/sparkplug411.asp