3rd Spun bearing on motor in 1 yr!
would also like to back David up on what he said earlier about how they support current customers that purchase their engines..
I got well taken care of.
The price was really reasonable for repair, and the turn around time was even more impressive. I had my parts back within 7 days or so. so after care customer support definitely kicks ***. mine happened back in sept of 2010.
I got well taken care of.
The price was really reasonable for repair, and the turn around time was even more impressive. I had my parts back within 7 days or so. so after care customer support definitely kicks ***. mine happened back in sept of 2010.
I had the same problem with my STi. I neglected to clean everything well and spun a bearing again in 86 miles. It cost me $2000 in parts and machine shop labor the 2nd time but I replaced the oil pickup, pump and cooler and spent hundreds having the block halves and heads disassembled and cleaned. I even had to take apart the AVCS (Suby Mivec) gear and clean that plus replace the chra of the turbo. Since then 7k hard miles and no problems. I used some 5W50 Valvoline Synthetic since Subys have oiling problems.
I second the thin oil and improper cleaning or replacement of some seemingly insignificant part causing this failure. I even considered just buying a whole new motor so I knew there were no shavings because I didnt want the stress. If it would have died a third time I would have set it on fire!
I second the thin oil and improper cleaning or replacement of some seemingly insignificant part causing this failure. I even considered just buying a whole new motor so I knew there were no shavings because I didnt want the stress. If it would have died a third time I would have set it on fire!
Last edited by batty200; Feb 10, 2012 at 06:28 AM.
Definitely consider going with a better motor oil. The AMSOIL Dominator 15w-50 has a Four-Ball Wear test of .47 and the Brad Penn 20w-50 has a .83, the smaller the number the better, less wear on engine components. The better the products are that make up the oil the less contaminates in the oil.
Move on and sell your snake oil to some kids that don't know any better. I'm also going to make the mods aware of your sig, I'm pretty sure you need to be a supporting vendor to have it say that.
I had the same problem with my STi. I neglected to clean everything well and spun a bearing again in 86 miles. It cost me $2000 in parts and machine shop labor the 2nd time but I replaced the oil pickup, pump and cooler and spent hundreds having the block halves and heads disassembled and cleaned. I even had to take apart the AVCS (Suby Mivec) gear and clean that plus replace the chra of the turbo. Since then 7k hard miles and no problems. I used some 5W50 Valvoline Synthetic since Subys have oiling problems.
I second the thin oil and improper cleaning or replacement of some seemingly insignificant part causing this failure. I even considered just buying a whole new motor so I knew there were no shavings because I didnt want the stress. If it would have died a third time I would have set it on fire!
I second the thin oil and improper cleaning or replacement of some seemingly insignificant part causing this failure. I even considered just buying a whole new motor so I knew there were no shavings because I didnt want the stress. If it would have died a third time I would have set it on fire!
he reused the oil cooler on one of the failures, not sure what he did on the rest of them though..
i know when i was ignorant to built race engines consuming oil, on a 600 mile drive i neglected to check my oil level and learned the hard way how race engines can consume oil on just normal cruising the car at highway speeds.
i even had a aem oil pressure gauge.. and i challenged it to think it was reading wrong.. biggest mistake ever.. it read 10-15psi at idle when normally the car reads 30-35.. well it bit me in the *** quarter mile down the road the tap noises occured and like an idiot i drove on it more until it got so bad the tap noise was flickering the knock cel off and on.
checked dipstick, 100% dry.. knew i was ****ed that very moment..
guess im writing this because i wanna say:
if you dont get every little last thing checked, flushed, inpected, you will just keep spinning more bearings.
1. i sent the turbo back to get checked - which fp found bearing pieces in it. ( i know for a fact jack didnt get his turbo checked out ever). (i wasnt using the inline filter like an idiot.. kept the filter part out - dont do this!)
2. never reuse the oil cooler or you will be instantly ****ed.. (jack did that as well before)
3. i replaced the oil pump / frontcase assembly
4. replaced the oil filter housing (maybe this isnt 100% neccessary)
5. i gave buschur racing my oil pan
6. i gave buschur racing my oil cooler return lines
7. i gave buschur racing my head to get checked
8. i replaced the oil pickup tube
9. i gave fp my entire oil feedline and they found shavings in that as well.
10. i sprayed about 5 cans of brake cleaner into my valve cover + probably dumped 25 gal of water through it, then took compressed air to it.
11. took apart the kiggly HLA and found bearing material in that as well.
so theres lots of places bearing material can go to and if you dont cover your bases its just going to occur again..
i had no idea the valve cover coating can do that tho.. that is damn scary. my valve cover was powdercoated before by JNZ finishing.. i hope to hell mine never does that!
last but not least.. use the oil weight your engine builder prefers.. in my case 20w50 and brad penn.
simple new bearing kit, resize rods, touch hone, and new rings and my car was back.. and been fine for 5000 miles since that very day..
so i guess if you dont cover every single known possibility it could come and bite your *** is what im getting at.
i know when i was ignorant to built race engines consuming oil, on a 600 mile drive i neglected to check my oil level and learned the hard way how race engines can consume oil on just normal cruising the car at highway speeds.
i even had a aem oil pressure gauge.. and i challenged it to think it was reading wrong.. biggest mistake ever.. it read 10-15psi at idle when normally the car reads 30-35.. well it bit me in the *** quarter mile down the road the tap noises occured and like an idiot i drove on it more until it got so bad the tap noise was flickering the knock cel off and on.
checked dipstick, 100% dry.. knew i was ****ed that very moment..
guess im writing this because i wanna say:
if you dont get every little last thing checked, flushed, inpected, you will just keep spinning more bearings.
1. i sent the turbo back to get checked - which fp found bearing pieces in it. ( i know for a fact jack didnt get his turbo checked out ever). (i wasnt using the inline filter like an idiot.. kept the filter part out - dont do this!)
2. never reuse the oil cooler or you will be instantly ****ed.. (jack did that as well before)
3. i replaced the oil pump / frontcase assembly
4. replaced the oil filter housing (maybe this isnt 100% neccessary)
5. i gave buschur racing my oil pan
6. i gave buschur racing my oil cooler return lines
7. i gave buschur racing my head to get checked
8. i replaced the oil pickup tube
9. i gave fp my entire oil feedline and they found shavings in that as well.
10. i sprayed about 5 cans of brake cleaner into my valve cover + probably dumped 25 gal of water through it, then took compressed air to it.
11. took apart the kiggly HLA and found bearing material in that as well.
so theres lots of places bearing material can go to and if you dont cover your bases its just going to occur again..
i had no idea the valve cover coating can do that tho.. that is damn scary. my valve cover was powdercoated before by JNZ finishing.. i hope to hell mine never does that!
last but not least.. use the oil weight your engine builder prefers.. in my case 20w50 and brad penn.
simple new bearing kit, resize rods, touch hone, and new rings and my car was back.. and been fine for 5000 miles since that very day..
so i guess if you dont cover every single known possibility it could come and bite your *** is what im getting at.
I really don't believe the oil got contaminated..
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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 48
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From: Dallas,TX
It's hard to take in, but it's obvious that your oil is and was contaminated. This just doesn't happen? I've built and tuned motors for 10 years now and have seen a lot. Most shops like my own, suggest not reusing any lines or oil related item once metal has contaminated the system. Brake cleaner and air won't clean the lines enough. If you have ever fabricated anything, cleaning metal shavings is the worst job and most important to any build. Lines are cheap enough to replace, but turbos, cylinder heads, coolers, in line filters, hot tanking, labor and time is the biggest, discouraging part after engine failure. It's like starting from scratch. If you don't start from scratch, it will most likely happen again. Sucks, but you are not the only one it's happened to. I've seen this many times. A couple which the owner has provided that he/she has confessed to using parts from their old setup when told not to. I've never personally bought a buschur motor but have tuned many with no failures. It's not rocket science!
evo3573, I might be wrong but didn't you tell me the valve cover still needs inspected because it was either painted or powder coated? Until you cut those baffles off you won't know if its got crap in it or not.
Yes it was the first one I took forever to finish that went bad. The second time around it was less than 2 months total turn around time. Thats waiting a long time for machine work and fixing other cars as well plus the full time job.
yes it was powdercoated. Would I be able to send you guys complete long block?
Yes, of course but if you are thinking of doing that you may find you are MUCH better off sending the entire car. Our rate to assemble a complete engine isn't that far from actually pulling the engine, cleaning it all, re-assembling it all, putting it in the car. Then I can tune it and after we are done we pull the filter and cut it open for inspection. If at that point anything seems "not right" we pull the engine again and find out what's up for FREE.
that sucks.. i was very close to buying that car.. it looked really nice for a STI.. my favorite body style
I am confident that my oil didn't get contaminated with my Buschur motor. I got the head, oil pan, pick up tube cleaned by local machine shop. I sprayed all lines out with brake cleaner and compressed air and well as the valve cover.I got a brand new oem front cover and I deleted my oil cooler completley. I didnt skip on anything. The motor had 7800 miles on it with 4 oil changes.
I really don't believe the oil got contaminated..
I really don't believe the oil got contaminated..
thin oil killed it then. that sucks..
did you get the turbo checked? if not then you cant say you're confident.. because anything can happen in these cars when bearing material circulates.