3rd Spun bearing on motor in 1 yr!
thats very few oil changes.. i change mine every 1k usually. how often do you check the oil level? i check everytime i fill the car up with gas now and always keep it over the full notch on the dipstick.
thin oil killed it then. that sucks..
did you get the turbo checked? if not then you cant say you're confident.. because anything can happen in these cars when bearing material circulates.
thin oil killed it then. that sucks..
did you get the turbo checked? if not then you cant say you're confident.. because anything can happen in these cars when bearing material circulates.
Thats seems like a good plan. I sent you a pm 
Yes, of course but if you are thinking of doing that you may find you are MUCH better off sending the entire car. Our rate to assemble a complete engine isn't that far from actually pulling the engine, cleaning it all, re-assembling it all, putting it in the car. Then I can tune it and after we are done we pull the filter and cut it open for inspection. If at that point anything seems "not right" we pull the engine again and find out what's up for FREE.
Some good pointers in here.
I have built 2.0L engine. I run AMSOIL 10w40 Premium to 4-5k miles with 2-3 track days on it. Engine is good. Blackstone says im good to go and can run longer. lol. Go figure. Although, when I run the ZROD 20w50, i run to 3k mi and max of 2 track days. Holds up fine no problems.
You are at 385/339....we were talking about big power. I'll agree with previous posters. BIG POWER I wouldn't (and don't) go over 1500 miles between changes...especially when you use e85 (or e98) which dilutes the oil much faster than gasoline.
In addition to all of the other useful comments, the way you pressurize and start the motor first time around can make a big difference. Cranking it for 5 minutes without oil pressure while you hope the pump will prime, or washing down the cylinder walls with gas while you figure out the tune or still have a connector unplugged will give you less than hoped for outcomes.
94AWDCoupe, where do you have your cranks nitrided for $200?
94AWDCoupe, where do you have your cranks nitrided for $200?
In addition to all of the other useful comments, the way you pressurize and start the motor first time around can make a big difference. Cranking it for 5 minutes without oil pressure while you hope the pump will prime, or washing down the cylinder walls with gas while you figure out the tune or still have a connector unplugged will give you less than hoped for outcomes.
94AWDCoupe, where do you have your cranks nitrided for $200?
94AWDCoupe, where do you have your cranks nitrided for $200?
how do you use the external source to prime the pump i always use a drill to pump i do it until my drill battery dies lol but i make sure everything is getting pressure first like the lifters and turbo line and such and then i ware out my battery.
Yes, of course but if you are thinking of doing that you may find you are MUCH better off sending the entire car. Our rate to assemble a complete engine isn't that far from actually pulling the engine, cleaning it all, re-assembling it all, putting it in the car. Then I can tune it and after we are done we pull the filter and cut it open for inspection. If at that point anything seems "not right" we pull the engine again and find out what's up for FREE.
But in your case, use an AC powered drill..
Yes, of course but if you are thinking of doing that you may find you are MUCH better off sending the entire car. Our rate to assemble a complete engine isn't that far from actually pulling the engine, cleaning it all, re-assembling it all, putting it in the car. Then I can tune it and after we are done we pull the filter and cut it open for inspection. If at that point anything seems "not right" we pull the engine again and find out what's up for FREE.
im gonna say no need to externally prime a 4g63/4g64 as long as you remove the screw on the oil pump and assembly lube the gears up it will build full oil pressure instantly.
and if the tune is on point, it will start first or second full rotation of flywheel as long as you pre prime the fuel system by kicking on the pump to flow fuel through the lines before start.
did it this way on 3 different cars, never had an issue.
also people coming in saying they went 4-5k on oil.. keep in mind on some of these built race engine that are setup to take north of 800hp the clearances are so loose so the engine doesn't eat bearings up and ptw and ring gap and stuff is so loose/wide that the engine consumes oil.. so if you try to beat the **** out of it and you run it for 1k miles without checking oil and beating on it you'll be spinning a bearing due to oil starvation..
this is why i like brad penn.. not only does it pass blackstone testing with more then average but it cost almost 50% less then amsoil!!!!! ill be damned if i pay amsoil that much $ when i have an engine that's built loose and eats oil.. no thanks.
the only amsoil fluid that will go in my car is the trans fluid.
not everyone builds their engines to hold 1000hp either, but if youre changing fluids that often why the hell would you buy the highest priced fluid when there's a fluid for half the price that offers the same protection?
i could see if brad penn came back with not so good results, then i wouldnt go near it, but it doesnt.. it holds its own against amsoil just fine and is a partial synthetic so it doesnt halt ring sealing on new engines.
im not the smartest person either when it comes to this stuff, but i think i know enough to talk in here regarding the points above.
and if the tune is on point, it will start first or second full rotation of flywheel as long as you pre prime the fuel system by kicking on the pump to flow fuel through the lines before start.
did it this way on 3 different cars, never had an issue.
also people coming in saying they went 4-5k on oil.. keep in mind on some of these built race engine that are setup to take north of 800hp the clearances are so loose so the engine doesn't eat bearings up and ptw and ring gap and stuff is so loose/wide that the engine consumes oil.. so if you try to beat the **** out of it and you run it for 1k miles without checking oil and beating on it you'll be spinning a bearing due to oil starvation..
this is why i like brad penn.. not only does it pass blackstone testing with more then average but it cost almost 50% less then amsoil!!!!! ill be damned if i pay amsoil that much $ when i have an engine that's built loose and eats oil.. no thanks.
the only amsoil fluid that will go in my car is the trans fluid.
not everyone builds their engines to hold 1000hp either, but if youre changing fluids that often why the hell would you buy the highest priced fluid when there's a fluid for half the price that offers the same protection?
i could see if brad penn came back with not so good results, then i wouldnt go near it, but it doesnt.. it holds its own against amsoil just fine and is a partial synthetic so it doesnt halt ring sealing on new engines.
im not the smartest person either when it comes to this stuff, but i think i know enough to talk in here regarding the points above.
Well said I agree I love brad Penn products definitely great stuff!
-nick
-nick
im gonna say no need to externally prime a 4g63/4g64 as long as you remove the screw on the oil pump and assembly lube the gears up it will build full oil pressure instantly.
and if the tune is on point, it will start first or second full rotation of flywheel as long as you pre prime the fuel system by kicking on the pump to flow fuel through the lines before start.
did it this way on 3 different cars, never had an issue.
also people coming in saying they went 4-5k on oil.. keep in mind on some of these built race engine that are setup to take north of 800hp the clearances are so loose so the engine doesn't eat bearings up and ptw and ring gap and stuff is so loose/wide that the engine consumes oil.. so if you try to beat the **** out of it and you run it for 1k miles without checking oil and beating on it you'll be spinning a bearing due to oil starvation..
this is why i like brad penn.. not only does it pass blackstone testing with more then average but it cost almost 50% less then amsoil!!!!! ill be damned if i pay amsoil that much $ when i have an engine that's built loose and eats oil.. no thanks.
the only amsoil fluid that will go in my car is the trans fluid.
not everyone builds their engines to hold 1000hp either, but if youre changing fluids that often why the hell would you buy the highest priced fluid when there's a fluid for half the price that offers the same protection?
i could see if brad penn came back with not so good results, then i wouldnt go near it, but it doesnt.. it holds its own against amsoil just fine and is a partial synthetic so it doesnt halt ring sealing on new engines.
im not the smartest person either when it comes to this stuff, but i think i know enough to talk in here regarding the points above.
and if the tune is on point, it will start first or second full rotation of flywheel as long as you pre prime the fuel system by kicking on the pump to flow fuel through the lines before start.
did it this way on 3 different cars, never had an issue.
also people coming in saying they went 4-5k on oil.. keep in mind on some of these built race engine that are setup to take north of 800hp the clearances are so loose so the engine doesn't eat bearings up and ptw and ring gap and stuff is so loose/wide that the engine consumes oil.. so if you try to beat the **** out of it and you run it for 1k miles without checking oil and beating on it you'll be spinning a bearing due to oil starvation..
this is why i like brad penn.. not only does it pass blackstone testing with more then average but it cost almost 50% less then amsoil!!!!! ill be damned if i pay amsoil that much $ when i have an engine that's built loose and eats oil.. no thanks.
the only amsoil fluid that will go in my car is the trans fluid.
not everyone builds their engines to hold 1000hp either, but if youre changing fluids that often why the hell would you buy the highest priced fluid when there's a fluid for half the price that offers the same protection?
i could see if brad penn came back with not so good results, then i wouldnt go near it, but it doesnt.. it holds its own against amsoil just fine and is a partial synthetic so it doesnt halt ring sealing on new engines.
im not the smartest person either when it comes to this stuff, but i think i know enough to talk in here regarding the points above.