Jumping back to one of the original questions... Didn't you say your oil smelled of gas before the test?

 

yes, my oil did smell of gas. In the report, fuel dilution is negative. I would "assume" that all of you guys' who have the same smell, probably do not have fuel in their oil either!!

 

Interesting... So, what's up with the heavy smell? Could it be the oil itself breaking down? Think I'm going to investigate a larger oil cooler core from my local autoparts stores. Anyone know the OE core size? I know several have posted oil temps upwards of 280...

 

you know what makes me nervous about oil temp???? The close proximity of the down pipe to the oil pan. That situation cant be helping our temp at all!!

 

I don't know about you guys, but engine oil always smells like gas to me...unless it is still new in the bottle. Nothing to worry about.

 

Well, I have a 92' corolla and an 03' evo. When I change the oil in both cars, the evo's smell is extremely stronger than the corolla's. In fact, one week after I changed the evo's oil, I already smelled gas in it--smelled pretty strong.

 

...And my 91' Mustang 5.0 with 450 hp had a stronger gas smell in it's oil than my Jeep Grand Cherokee. One had tiny 15# injectors while my pumped up stang had 30# injectors. More demand, more power, more fuel.

I'm sure your evo as well as mine, have way bigger injectors than even my stang did. Is it hard to believe that your Evo's oil takes more of a beating than your corolla? Hence the stink,stank.

My point being that I still don't trip off of the smell, thats all

 

Silica and silicon are both listed as "silicon" on the analysis. Becuase this number is up at 20 on the second analysis, check and double check all of the intake plumbing.

I know it's a b**ch and a half to check all the intercooler piping, but make sure it's all tight and leak free.

Also, you might try going back to a stock airbox setup to make sure it's not your air filter. K&N, and to a lesser degree the Accel Kool-Blue, allow silicon to get dangerously high. This results in the iron (from the block) being at 4.4ppm/1k miles.

I also agree that a leakdown and static compression test should be in order. To get numbers that high, you need some high high temps and massive blowby.

ferb!

 

My thoughts also...

 

ive always said the synthetic oil smells like that when its hott...

 

These cars could definately benefit from going to a higher grade oil.

For oxidation characteristics of all the different oils on the market, check out www.motoroilbible.com
It has the specs of *every* motor oil made, by grade.

Oils with a low Noack volitility would degrade the least at high temps. Mobil 1 10/30's Noack is 13%

Noack = Noack Volatility (DIN 51581) 250°C for 1 hour, % weight loss

Oils with the lowest Noack vary by grade. I did a quick scan of the report. In general Redline and AMSOIL have the most consistent lowest Noacks. There are a few exceptions though - It depends on the grade.

Sean

 

I wanna run some RS 10w60~!~

 

Even Amsoil, in the lastest numbers, shows Mobil 1 10w-30 at ~8.8%. What API rating does it give; my guess is that's the older Tri-syn or previous.

And BoostedWRX-- why on earth run the 60wt. If you want fully synthetic Castrol in a resonable weight, try the 0w-30 Syntec made in Germany. There's also a 5w-40 German Syntec found at your VW/Audi that is PAO/Ester.

ferb!

 

you know, ime not the one to be worrying. I ime easy on the car, those of you who thrash it, i wonder what your oil would test like??!!

 

Most aluminum alloys used for pistons have a fairly high silicone content. I wonder whether the hi silicone in the oil may be piston break-in or wear.