o.k. remember last week i sent in my oil sample, well here are the results. Someone chime in here as to what they think is the cause of the oxidation problem...

a/f = no Fuel=no h2o=no

100C=9.3 soot=0 oxi=248(problem)

Nit=77 sul=83

wear metals in PPM

CO=4 IRON=11 CH=0 AL=4

SILLICON=20 LEAD=1 SODIUM=12 TIN=0

NI=0 BARIUM=2 SILVER=0 ZINC=851

BORON=166 CALCIUM=2711 PHOSPOR=713

MAGNESIUM=37 POTASIUM=1 MOLY=85

This sample came back reportable due to excessive oxidation. I have no idea why and will investigate further. Also silicon was high and possibly due to sealer/grease. I cant remember ever getting oxidation on the diesels, so ime not sure as to the cause. I will make a phone call on tuesday to the lab and find out whats up. Thanks Ray

 

Can i get a little more data on the oil? Miles on oil, miles on engine, brand and weight of oil?

ferb!

 

This old man doesn't know what he is reading... what are the scales... or could someone just plain translate. Can't say I've ever seen such a report.

 

In laymens terms please.

 

Oxidation and Nitration should be on the "Caterpillar scale" which basically means, 100 is 100% of the allowable limit. So at 248, this oil is 248% of what we would like to see.

Oxidation usually comes as a result of running the oil entirely too hot-- a not too uncommon sight in turbos. Blowby can also manifest in oxidation levels being high.

Nitration is usually a byproduct of blowby or EGR systems malfunctioning.

The rest of the data is in parts-per-million (PPM).

Preliminary data (assuming M1 10w-30), the super high oxidation means the oil is being sheared A LOT and then thickens back up. At 9.3cSt the oil is thinner than the 10.0cSt at the start. And assuming that the 248 is correct for oxidation, this definately hit into mid 20W before thickening.

I've never seen a percentage for sulfur before. Usually it's represented as PPM. This is helpful since a lot of the extreme pressure additives are metal sulfides.

Other data that would be very helpful are the flashpoint, total base number (TBN) and insolubles. The latter being able to show the state of your filtration system.

Overall, it's a very interesting analysis. The wear metals seem high but not extraordinary, however the oil itself is beaten to a pulp. Time to scale back the interval, make sure the emissions are correct, and try again.

ferb!

 

excellent work guys, thanks for sharing your knowledge!

I guess this goes to prove that Mitsu's "Recommended 5000 mile oil change interval" can basically ruin our cars considering the oil is breaking down so badly.

I'm not sure what the oil change interval used here was, but if it's that bad (assuming 3000k mile change) then could you imagine 5000k mile?

*edit - Just found original post saying 2500 mile oil change interval. I thought synthetic was more resistant to break down that this oil sample seems to be having?

 

Would driving habits not also affect the condition of the oil? I would have to think not letting the engine warm up, turning consistent high rpm, or frequent short trips would have to have some effect. Not saying this is the case, I'm just curious if this would have some bearing on things.

 

Sounds like a better oil cooler may help a bit... I'd also like to see leak down numbers on that engine.

 

I've also got an oil filter relocation kit I may fit to the car. Not that it needs the oil filter moved (I love how easy it is to get to), but an extra quart of oil makes a marked difference in oil temps on the turbo charged Hondas... so why not.

 

an oil test is very comon in the diesel community.so there is were he is comming from.an oil test will tell you everything that is happening inside your engine

 

yes, i change oil at 2500. Its easier for me to remember when. Also another item in the oil that was flagged to watch was aluminum. Ime baffeled at the silicon. The report says possible sealants. This is my second change. I didnt do a check on the first change cause of break in. It is possible that these numbers could go down due to correct break in. I will sample again at 7500MI and watch things. Thanks for your great info!!! Oh, and my only hard use of the car is a few stop light take off's a few times a week. This car runs flawless. Currently have an hks/evc set at 15 lbs, typhoon intake. The main reason for the check was that i dont trust the K&N filter. I live on a dirt road in AZ and can see pinholes in the filter when held up to the light. I was interested in Silica. Strange but it was not listed on the report. I will call them on Monday. FERB: 5000mi on car, 2500mi on oil, Mobil1 10w-30, also FERB, you are correct, oxi, nit, sul are in %. also done by infrared anylasis. Ray

 

rraulston, how did you drive your car on that oil change?

 

Could the silicon be from small amounts of casting sand? Just a guess.

 

80% highway. 20 stop light to stoplight in town. I dont drive real hard but i play a little. Never raced. Got dogged by a few hondas on my way to work till i removed the factory boost controller that didnt work. My boost is set at 15. Runs better, dont know why, and i mix fuel. 1 to 5 100 octane to 91. I try for an avg of 93. Pulls hard all the way to 7000. This is the stuff they sell at the 76 station. This car is very well taken care of.

 

i think sillica and sillicon are completely different. Sillica is sand. Sillicon is sillicon/sealants.RRR