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egt tap blocker

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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 03:58 PM
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egt tap blocker

Anyone have some good ideas on how to block a tap for an EGT sensor in a stock manifold?
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 03:59 PM
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JB Weld.
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by tony_b
JB Weld.
Lol will it hold though? I run a fp red and 25-31lbs of boost depending on setup
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 04:52 PM
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Or just dont even run an egt gauge, a lot of people don't seem to run them anymore.
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by boostedwrx
Or just dont even run an egt gauge, a lot of people don't seem to run them anymore.
I'm not running one. But the sensor is still in and the tap is stripped so I've got an exhaust leak from it.
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 05:09 PM
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Depends on how much you want to spend then I guess, I've seen used oem manifold go for $50-60, but maybe check with your local exhaust/welding shop to see if they can patch it. The local muffler place by me usually charges me $40 cash for stuff that takes <30 min.
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 05:27 PM
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If it were mine, I would drill it out and tap it for a larger plug. Where on the manifold is it?
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by blknblubkrdude
If it were mine, I would drill it out and tap it for a larger plug. Where on the manifold is it?
Right in the middle coming off of the first exhaust port.
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 07:21 PM
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Just re-tap it and find the appropriate plug.
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 11:16 PM
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If it's truly a stock manifold, I have one kicking around somewhere in my garage, otherwise, drilling and tapping it will work. Just don't do it while it's still on the car.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 02:03 AM
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Originally Posted by THUB
If it's truly a stock manifold...drilling and tapping it will work. Just don't do it while it's still on the car.
Why not drill and tap the manifold while it is still on the car? Is it because it would be too easy. Why would it be better to needlessly R&R the manifold.

Just drill and tap to next larger NPT plug size. First remove catalytic convertor, or test pipe. Be sure to run the motor while you are drilling. This way all metal shards produced during drilling will be blown out the exhaust. There is absolutely no need to remove manifold. Unless you have nothing better to do and you just want to convert what should be a 10 minute job into a five hour ordeal. Just be sure to wear safety goggles.

Last edited by sparky; Feb 29, 2012 at 02:18 AM.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 07:33 AM
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^ this
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 08:24 AM
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I would re-tap, plug and spot weld the plug.
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 08:27 AM
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Weld it. Cast stainless can be mig welded easily.
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 08:31 AM
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Personally I don't want to throw all the chips from drilling and tapping through my turbo, and drilling and tapping an exhaust manifold while the car is running seems like a really good way to get badly burned.
Also, I'm pretty sure the stock manifold is iron, not stainless, which means welding is actually pretty difficult.
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