for pressure or temperature, the sending unit will still be accurate if it's a closed system (i.e. not leaking)

 

^ i think oil temp sensor in the head would be too localize, and you would only be getting oil reading from one area. the oil pan is where all the oil drain to before it goes through the oil cooler. you have oil draining from turbo into oil pan, and oil splash from the cylinder wall and head draining into the pan. that will give you an average oil temp reading from the entire engine before the oil goes into the oil cooler. just my thought.

 

yeah, I'm confused too....
The best place to get pressure is the filter housing right off the pump, because that is what the bearings are going to see... and the highest pressure possible by the pump
The best place for oil temp is right in the sump, because that is the general average temperature of the entire oil volume..

 

badass job drilling the drain plug for the sensor. That looks very nice.

Does anyone have the P/N for the factory sensor w/ drain plug?

 

Anyone...?

 

Someone PM'd me a question about this thread and I wanted to come back in here to shed some insight after using my system for more than a year.

Honda-Guy thinking was actually what I encountered.
Using the relocation for the temp sensor that far away from the source delayed the response, it took very long for the oil in the line to actually heat up.
What I believe happens is that the volume of oil in the line gets and stays pressurized and never circulates through the system, so you are waiting on heat transfer to travel up the line.

My advice/experience would be to put the temperature sensor off the filter as close as possible or in the pan. I eventually relocated mine in the pan.

As a confirmation, the pressure sensor relocated showed no difference.

 

yup. temp in the pan is the best since thats what the bearings see.pressure at the filter housing is good because its closest to the pump.

 

Sorry for somewhat highjacking the thread but I plan on installing AEM Oil Temp Sensor where the hex bolt is by the oil filter. Do I need any special fittings or can I just screw the temperature sensor straight to the area I take the hex bolt out of.

 

Found this on STM's site, they make it easy now haha. Since GiJoe updated the thread and said there was a delay in temps when T'ing off from the pressure line.
https://stmtuned.com/products/stm-oi...ccc755c3&_ss=r

 

That is awesome, thanks for pointing it out.

 

Have we really become that lazy? That is like a 10 minute job with basic hand tools. Center punch, drill and tap. Call me cheap but I'm not sure I could throw $40 on that. But hey if they're selling and it helps people out then who am I to judge.

 

Its hard to drill a straight hole without a drill press. This also assumes you have a drill, and a tap and die set. Then you gotta think about work holding without damaging the threads. I mean one trip the the hardware store and that's already costing you gas and time. I'm not saying its not worth doing yourself, but I wouldn't call it lazy to just buy something already made. This is like on the spectrum of people buying pre-fab'd fluid lines when they could just buy the fittings and line and terminate themselves.

 

Yeah. I've posted to do that probably in 3-4 different threads lol.

If you don't have a drill press it makes sense to buy. But everyone should have drill bits, and an 1/8 pipe tape is <$10.

 

Is the OEM plug discontinued? If not, why not just buy the OEM plug that has the swivel. Changing oil without the swivel seems to be a PITA and not to mention the possibility of leak if you drill it.