Ok, have just about everything I need and not quite sure what route I should take. My gut is telling me to do this with 2 separate jobs but I want to tear it all down and install everything at one time. What would be the best way to go?

option 1, tear it down and install t-belt, cams and springs at one time
option 2, swap cams and springs and do the t-belt job 2nd..
option 3, t-belt job first and then swap the cams and springs..

After typing that, I think option 2 or 3 would be the safest route. I'm nervous with this being an interference engine... Anyone have any tips or tricks to get all this done the easiest way? Thanks

 

I don't see what is safer about option 2 or 3. With 2 or 3 you are into the timing belt twice.

Line up the timing marks. Paint marks on the sprockets and onto the belts. Transfer the marks to the new belts. Pull the cams. If replacing springs with head in place you may now turn the crank all you like. Reassemble with the timing marks and paints marks lined up.

 

I would do it all at once... why take it apart twice..


If you're keeping the same gears then I'd do exactly as described above..

If you plan on switching cam gears when installing the new cams (I'm **** about aftermarket cams and always take the time to degree them) Then marking the belt to the cam gears will be worthless... but if you're degreeing the cams you're measuring everything out anyways so it will be no big deal.


FWIW I JUST Did this job including springs and valve seals this weekend.. It took me about 4 hours total and this is only the 2nd time I've ever done it on an EVO (Though i've done it on DSMs 100s of times) ... If you're going to do the springs w/o removing the head I'd Highly recommend the EuroExport valve spring compressor.. that thing and a drill made the valve spring/seals job happen in less than 2 hours.. I couldn't have been happier..

Also If you're using Fidanza gears dont forget that the timing marks should be at 3 oclock .. This confused the crap out of me to begin with ..

Good luck..

 

Thanks for the reply's. I will be using the stock cam gears. Doing it all at once makes sense. So when I paint the marks on the old belt and gears, Then I just line up the old and new belts and transfer marks to new belt ?? And then line up new belt to the marks on the gears.. yea, that sounds pretty simple.. Thanks

I've seen that spring tool. I hate purchasing a tool to use one time... I posted a thread in my local region to see if I can borrow or rent first.

 

Do it all at once.

 

Well there are a few other tools out there that will work with the head on the car...but they take 2 people usually and one false move and you send a keeper flying across the room, or down into the oil pan... ....

The way I justified it in my mind was a new head gasket will cost me just about 80 bucks to use the valve spring compressor I have traditionally used... not having to buy a head gasket bought the tool ;-) problem solved :P

I suppose though if you honestly only plan on doing the work on one head in all of your days than its not worth the 85 bucks and just find one to borrow.. but I do 10-15 heads per year...its a little more justified :P

 

Just don't spin the oil pump while doing this or chance having a balance shaft out of time.

 

Not if he marked the belt to the Oil pump pulley too......

 

This^^^ zip tie the belt to the gears---cause the marks will move and all you'll hear is a click. This keeps them from getting out of align even with the belt having slack and no need to re-align to marks...just check tdc marks line it up , zip tie in place and go.

the eurosport tool is kick a$$--best money I have spent and worked quickly and easily.

 

regarding the oil pump gear. I am aware that needs to be in alignment also and If I recall.. it's only in alignment like every 3 revolutions.. using a screwdriver in a hole.. I forget the exact process to get that lined up but remember it being something funky like that..

 

I used a couple of small vice grips to clamp the belt onto the cam sprockets. Now, the belt couldn't jump at the cam sprockets so it jumped at the crank sprocket. The best thing to do is get the tool that sticks between the cam sprocket and holds them in place. I assume the eurosport is this tool.

 

The EuroExport tool we are referring to is not to hold the cam gears in place... It is for removing and installing valve springs..


The tool you are referring to is helpful too though for holding the cam still while timing them..

 

If this is your first time doing the timing belt, I would do the timing belt job first, drive around the car a few days just to make sure you did it right and everything is ok then do the cams. You do not have to remove the valve cover to do the timing belt so you are not doing the job twice, only thing that you would have to remove twice is the cover for the timing belt, easy 5 bolts.

 

You better be sure everything is right before you go driving it around?? timing off = smashed valves.. Belt too loose = skipped teeth=smashed valves ... I wouldnt put it together and drive it around for a couple days to make sure its right ... that is silly ..Make sure its right BEFORE you continue putting it together..the timing marks are plain as day on an EVO theres should be no reason other than being in too big of a hurry to screw up doing a timing belt on these things...and thats obviously not a good reason..

5 bolts? Sure that hold the timing cover on...
What about the PITA water pump pulley, The idler pully, the tensioner? crank pulley Splash shields? (assuming you still have them) ...recompressing the hydraulic tensioner.. Theres far more to it than a timing cover.. The Valve cover is a 2 minute job... just because you don't have to remove the valve cover to do a timing job does not mean the timing job does not take a significant amount of time of the total job that the OP proposed...

Granted its not a TON of extra work in the grand scheme of things to do the timing twice.... in comparison to actually doing the valve springs/seals... but its definitely more than an extra 5 minutes...I'd guess it at least an hour or 2 extra if he went through all of that hassle..and by my logic thats time wasted..

 

Exactly this.. I never did one personally but am familiar with the job on a DSM. This is my first time. I am not cranking the engine until it's turned over multiple times triple checking everything to make sure it's stat.. You DO NOT just slap these together and make sure it's good when it's running.. I might as well go to AC and plop 2 G on the roulette wheel..