Cold Engine Starts
Originally posted by OnlineAlias
I too have noticed cold start driveability problems. But it isn't just the engine. The transmission, CV joints/transfer case, suspension and tires all are VERY crabby in the morning.
I guess that is to be expected when the factory tweeks an engine to within an inch of its life and still has to make emissions....wonder if Dynoflashing helps. Al? You there?
I too have noticed cold start driveability problems. But it isn't just the engine. The transmission, CV joints/transfer case, suspension and tires all are VERY crabby in the morning.
I guess that is to be expected when the factory tweeks an engine to within an inch of its life and still has to make emissions....wonder if Dynoflashing helps. Al? You there?
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4
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From: TX
Originally posted by Cabo
It's recommended that you warm up the EVO for at least five minutes if the temp is freezing or below. I do it whenever I can and it makes a noticeable difference in cold drivability.
Cabo
It's recommended that you warm up the EVO for at least five minutes if the temp is freezing or below. I do it whenever I can and it makes a noticeable difference in cold drivability.
Cabo
like it's been said... it's the nature of the 4g63t cars... takes a while to get this puppy warmed up...
what i usually do is sit and let the car idle for about a minute to 2 minutes (depending on the temperature outside) and then i roll out very slow and don't get on the boost at all until 5-10minutes (also depending on the weather)..
you bought a race-car.. take care of it like a race-car...
what i usually do is sit and let the car idle for about a minute to 2 minutes (depending on the temperature outside) and then i roll out very slow and don't get on the boost at all until 5-10minutes (also depending on the weather)..
you bought a race-car.. take care of it like a race-car...
Evolving Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 415
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From: Home of USGP!
Originally posted by boostedwrx
Guys, Al's Dynopiss wont help any matters here. You are all being way to hard on the EVO's drivetrain. We have a drivetrain similiar to the Typhoon or the Cyclone. Its HEAVY DUTY. In some cases, very much overkill. For one thing, it takes 66lbs of force to get the drivetrain rolling, at least on my EVO it does. Of course everything is going to be tight in the morning. Give it a nice easy warmup and keep it below 3k until the engine has been running for 10 min.
Guys, Al's Dynopiss wont help any matters here. You are all being way to hard on the EVO's drivetrain. We have a drivetrain similiar to the Typhoon or the Cyclone. Its HEAVY DUTY. In some cases, very much overkill. For one thing, it takes 66lbs of force to get the drivetrain rolling, at least on my EVO it does. Of course everything is going to be tight in the morning. Give it a nice easy warmup and keep it below 3k until the engine has been running for 10 min.
Remember, we aren't talking about SU or Weber carbs here, our computer has the ability to keep everything stoichiometric
regardless of temp or throttle opening. I will concede, however, that it can't be perfect right off because of open/closed loop issues.
Just ask any OBDII E36 M3 owner if they like the factory maps. BMW "cured" a federal emission problem by reflashing the computer with restrictive code that made the cars nearly un-drivable in the cold until completely warmed up. This was done AFTER the car was sold, as an "update".
Last edited by OnlineAlias; Jan 25, 2004 at 12:35 PM.
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