Different reasons for different people. I personally am a bit of a control freak. I would never allow the ECU to be the only factor to determine my boost. Lets say you get your car reflashed to hold 19 psi across the full rpm range, then one day you find yourself driving in an area that doesn’t have 90+ octane fuel and you are nearly on empty so you are forced to fill up with low grade fuel. You’ve got to be very very careful to not hit boost or you may very well damage you engine.

I know this is a stupid “what if” but you’d be surprised what might happen. I’ve heard of stations accidentally getting the wrong grade in the wrong tank. Or another not at all stupid what if is a lot of people like to race their cars. They put in 100+ octane racing fuel on weekends for the track. It’s best to be able to control your boost without having to have the ECU reflashed.

 

just out of curiosity does it say on there how far you have to turn for 1 PSI of boost increase??? for instance 1 full turn is 1PSI up or down???

-non

 

as with Any MBC there isnt a Turn per pound of boost ratio. Its really Test and tune. Try 1/4-1/2 turns at a time to adjust the boost. If you have any questions about our MBC please feel free to PM me.

Eric

 

in other words I should really have a boost guage when I buy this....

-non

oh well next month...

oh ya I am assuming that you remove the restrictor pill correct???

 

You need a boost gauge with a MBC. Assuming I installed mine correctly , the whole line that holds the pill is removed.

 

cool deal thanks a lot guys looks like the perrin or AMS is good enough for me I just have to bet my guage to fit my pod...

-non

 

I'm just saying that the one I have off of ebay offers the finest adjustability I've seen yet on a mbc, utilizing both ball and spring along with a little bleeder valve for very fine adjustments. But no one will ever listen to me because it doesn't have a name engraved on it or a sticker

 

People are usually under the impression that you get what you pay for, but in this instance we are talking about a part that can be made with some pieces from the hardware store. The one on Ebay looks like a good piece and probably is priced gouged as much as some of the others. For me I prefer electronic boost contol, but it does cost a bit more.

 

dont get me wrong I prefer EBC also but I dont have the money to blow on an EVC right now... most likely I will have one in the future but I need something basic for right now...

-non

 

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what he said

 

Im confused, cause Al told me with my mods, and after having my reflashed a 2nd time yesterday after getting my cams and fuel pump in, that the thing that is keeping me from BIG power is a Boost Controller. I am at 281 WHP, and he said I would easily be at 310 or more with a MBC. I peak at 22 and drop to 16-17 right now. SO some of you have said the reflash cures it, but for me it didnt, cause Al said I need a BC, but some say MBC no matter what.

 

http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php

Looking at the Hallman Pro RX Kit it has a new Ceramic ball instead of stainless steel.
Looks like it will provide 1/2 Pound adjustments which is perfect for that constant 20 psi ,and its more responsive then a steel ball.



Anyone have experience with this MBC..

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=62149

ask him bout it

 

I just completed the install of my Hallman Pro RX. I never had a previous experience using boost controllers, but so far my experience with this unit has been very positive.

A few observations:

1.) Seems to spool a few hundred RPM sooner.
2.) The boost hits 20psi and generally holds steady to red line, occasionally tapering to 19psi.
3.) In my experience, don't bother installing the unit with the light spring. I could only hit 17-18psi with the light spring. The heavy spring provides enough fine adjustment that 1/4 turn increments seem to equate to 1/2 psi changes in boost. I need more "seat time" to determine this. I'm not sure how linear the adjustment is.
4.) I installed mine by tapping the supply side directly to the boost tap on the compressor outlet that was originally used to feed the OEM boost solenoid. I'm not certain but I suspect that those who experience more taper may have tapped in to a boost line being fed from the manifold. I'm pretty sure this will result in greater reaction time as the whole intake tract must pressurize before the MBC can react. However, this is pure speculation. I'd like to experiment with other tap locations to see how this affects spool up and taper.