Break/Clutch fluid? What kind should I refill with?
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Break/Clutch fluid? What kind should I refill with?
About to remove my clutch restrictor tonight and I have done plenty of searches of how to do it, but noone ever says what kind of break/clutch fluid to put back in......DOT3 or DOT4??? I do not have a owners manuel or a service manuel yet, so I am lost. Help a NEWBIE out and tell me what you all used. Thanks!!
Ohh and while you are here, what are the Tq specs to put the wheels lug nuts back on too.
Ohh and while you are here, what are the Tq specs to put the wheels lug nuts back on too.
You will find no help on this site, or in the owners manual. Nobody knows what they put in at the factory and all the owners manual says is "use DOT3 or DOT4 but do not mix"....without knowing what is in their now there is no way to know what to put in to avoid mixing!
Keith
Keith
just remember that Motul is considered a race fluid and therefore is needed to be regularly bled (they retain moisture). Believe it or not one of the best fluids out there is produced by Ford. They make a dot 3 and 4 fluid that is used by a great deal of racers in SCCA. I use the dot 4.
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The Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 has a VERY nice dry boil temp, but a pretty bad wet boil. Nice if you're changing your fluid every year, though.
As far as mixing DOT 3, 4, and 5.1, you really can. The chemistries are all based upon glycol ethers, the "synthetic" fluids being of a slightly higher specific gravity. DOT 5 is indeed silicone based and is incompatible.
ferb!
As far as mixing DOT 3, 4, and 5.1, you really can. The chemistries are all based upon glycol ethers, the "synthetic" fluids being of a slightly higher specific gravity. DOT 5 is indeed silicone based and is incompatible.
ferb!
ATE Super Blue
The wet and dry boiling points are a bit lower than top Motul fluids, but it is less hydroscopic (absorps less water from the atmosphere) and still has much higher boiling points than stock DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluids. I think either Race Shopper or Stoptech has it.
The wet and dry boiling points are a bit lower than top Motul fluids, but it is less hydroscopic (absorps less water from the atmosphere) and still has much higher boiling points than stock DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluids. I think either Race Shopper or Stoptech has it.
Here this may help:
http://www.centralcoastweb.com/nsxb/pages/m17.html
I myself have been looking around for brake fluids lately.
Castrol SRF is the ultimate. I read elsewhere that SRF can be flushed LESS regularly too because it resists moisture build-up better. SRF's not cheap of course, around USD 60/liter.
I've recently found a "second best" so to speak, the Project Mu GFour 335
http://www.project-mu.co.jp/e/product/gfour335.html
335C dry is higher than SRF, and although the 221C wet still falls short of the SRF, it is still higher than most if not all other racing fluids out there. Moisture absorption is said to be acceptably good too. It's selling at around USD 40/liter in Japan.
NOW HAVING SAID ALL THAT, do bear in mind: what do you use your car as? Because unless you do serious track days, all of the above are overkill. IMHO only of course.
http://www.centralcoastweb.com/nsxb/pages/m17.html
I myself have been looking around for brake fluids lately.
Castrol SRF is the ultimate. I read elsewhere that SRF can be flushed LESS regularly too because it resists moisture build-up better. SRF's not cheap of course, around USD 60/liter.
I've recently found a "second best" so to speak, the Project Mu GFour 335
http://www.project-mu.co.jp/e/product/gfour335.html
335C dry is higher than SRF, and although the 221C wet still falls short of the SRF, it is still higher than most if not all other racing fluids out there. Moisture absorption is said to be acceptably good too. It's selling at around USD 40/liter in Japan.
NOW HAVING SAID ALL THAT, do bear in mind: what do you use your car as? Because unless you do serious track days, all of the above are overkill. IMHO only of course.
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i'm using motul


