QM 8 leg clutch issues. need some advice.
Last I checked I still had some threads left. Roughly 2k on the clutch now maybe? And 4 track days.
I made 538wtq on our local Mustang Dyno in 3rd gear
I'm the stock trans too, my 1st gear is actually wiggling around when you take off, and I noticed that changes the way the clutch "feels" like it engages. It could be my imagination though, but it feels inconsistent if I dont push 1st gear all the way forward and hold it when I take off.
I made 538wtq on our local Mustang Dyno in 3rd gear
I'm the stock trans too, my 1st gear is actually wiggling around when you take off, and I noticed that changes the way the clutch "feels" like it engages. It could be my imagination though, but it feels inconsistent if I dont push 1st gear all the way forward and hold it when I take off.
Last I checked I still had some threads left. Roughly 2k on the clutch now maybe? And 4 track days.
I made 538wtq on our local Mustang Dyno in 3rd gear
I'm the stock trans too, my 1st gear is actually wiggling around when you take off, and I noticed that changes the way the clutch "feels" like it engages. It could be my imagination though, but it feels inconsistent if I dont push 1st gear all the way forward and hold it when I take off.
I made 538wtq on our local Mustang Dyno in 3rd gear
I'm the stock trans too, my 1st gear is actually wiggling around when you take off, and I noticed that changes the way the clutch "feels" like it engages. It could be my imagination though, but it feels inconsistent if I dont push 1st gear all the way forward and hold it when I take off.
Once the clutch heats up it seems to grab at the top. My question now is if the adjustment is this far out and its grabbing this high can I hurt the clutch or no.
Well that would be expected if you never adjusted your peddle. Adjust it and see what happens.
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yes i do.
this will be hard to explain i think.
the peddle stop is as high as i can get it and still allow the ''lower'' clutch peddle switch to work when trying to start the car. at one point it was to high so the clutch peddle did not press on the switch to allow the car to start.
does that make sense?
i bleed the clutch again. there is no change. i dont know what else to try.
this will be hard to explain i think.
the peddle stop is as high as i can get it and still allow the ''lower'' clutch peddle switch to work when trying to start the car. at one point it was to high so the clutch peddle did not press on the switch to allow the car to start.
does that make sense?
i bleed the clutch again. there is no change. i dont know what else to try.
When I was running the QM 8 leg, I unplugged my clutch switch.
I ran the hydraulic TOB without shims as well so I doubt that is your issue.
Push the clutch to the floor, car running, rev the car up to make sure it isnt dragging. If the car starts to lurk forward then you absolutely must find a way to get that thing disengaged.
I ran the hydraulic TOB without shims as well so I doubt that is your issue.
Push the clutch to the floor, car running, rev the car up to make sure it isnt dragging. If the car starts to lurk forward then you absolutely must find a way to get that thing disengaged.
When I was running the QM 8 leg, I unplugged my clutch switch.
I ran the hydraulic TOB without shims as well so I doubt that is your issue.
Push the clutch to the floor, car running, rev the car up to make sure it isnt dragging. If the car starts to lurk forward then you absolutely must find a way to get that thing disengaged.
I ran the hydraulic TOB without shims as well so I doubt that is your issue.
Push the clutch to the floor, car running, rev the car up to make sure it isnt dragging. If the car starts to lurk forward then you absolutely must find a way to get that thing disengaged.
i did not install it with shims... was advised it wasn't needed since it was new. So your saying after it heats up the full travel came back? I wonder after a day or two of sitting will it go back to being low again? Thats my concern since i might drive my car 1-2 times a week and it sits all winter.
Adjust the rod all the way out so the pedal has the proper fee play at the top. Then get a vacuum bleeder. After that pull a vacuum and open bleed. Pump the pedal with bleed open then close it. With car off on a hill slowly push pedal until car rolls freely then adjust pedal stop to 1/2 in past that. Do not over extend or you will bend the discs.
Adjust the rod all the way out so the pedal has the proper fee play at the top. Then get a vacuum bleeder. After that pull a vacuum and open bleed. Pump the pedal with bleed open then close it. With car off on a hill slowly push pedal until car rolls freely then adjust pedal stop to 1/2 in past that. Do not over extend or you will bend the discs.
As for the rest I kinda follow it but am a little slow. Lol
this is not air in the line issue,
problem with HRB is they dont fit this application well. there isnt enough space in the tranny, and they have very limited travel. so when friction material wears the bearing quickly runs out of range. when friction material wears the fingers on pressure plate extend toward bearing. this is why you need at least .250 clearance between bearing and PP when clutch is new. with less clearance, as material wears the fingers end up touching bearing. so very little pedal travel will be needed to get disengagement. as more material wears the pressure plate will be held open slightly at all times. leading to quick death of friction material.
problem with HRB is they dont fit this application well. there isnt enough space in the tranny, and they have very limited travel. so when friction material wears the bearing quickly runs out of range. when friction material wears the fingers on pressure plate extend toward bearing. this is why you need at least .250 clearance between bearing and PP when clutch is new. with less clearance, as material wears the fingers end up touching bearing. so very little pedal travel will be needed to get disengagement. as more material wears the pressure plate will be held open slightly at all times. leading to quick death of friction material.
this is not air in the line issue,
problem with HRB is they dont fit this application well. there isnt enough space in the tranny, and they have very limited travel. so when friction material wears the bearing quickly runs out of range. when friction material wears the fingers on pressure plate extend toward bearing. this is why you need at least .250 clearance between bearing and PP when clutch is new. with less clearance, as material wears the fingers end up touching bearing. so very little pedal travel will be needed to get disengagement. as more material wears the pressure plate will be held open slightly at all times. leading to quick death of friction material.
problem with HRB is they dont fit this application well. there isnt enough space in the tranny, and they have very limited travel. so when friction material wears the bearing quickly runs out of range. when friction material wears the fingers on pressure plate extend toward bearing. this is why you need at least .250 clearance between bearing and PP when clutch is new. with less clearance, as material wears the fingers end up touching bearing. so very little pedal travel will be needed to get disengagement. as more material wears the pressure plate will be held open slightly at all times. leading to quick death of friction material.
why am i not comprehending any of this. i am sorry. im completely not getting it. the clutch is new. has not been at the track yet. just some street driving and dyno time.
like i said the peddle adjustment is on its last thread. its grabbing about 1/2 way up the supper long peddle travel. it seems once i beat on the car and bang a few gears the clutch engagement go's from 1/2 to about 3/4 where i want it. the peddle travel is the same but the engagement point rose.
rising engagement is result of the discs warping when hot. requires more travel to disengage.
you didnt have enough HRB clearance when new. just bedding in friction material removes .015 in first few hundred miles. clutch fingers rise three times that distance.
pretty hard to explain clearly on paper.
you didnt have enough HRB clearance when new. just bedding in friction material removes .015 in first few hundred miles. clutch fingers rise three times that distance.
pretty hard to explain clearly on paper.