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Full head build questions

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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 03:24 AM
  #1  
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Thumbs up Full head build questions

Hey there everyone,
I will be pulling the head to upgrade it and want to upgrade everything related while i have it off the car. Ive done quite a bit of research on the head removal and upgrading process. I just wanted to make sure that i have everything covered before i try to attempt this task. Any extra tips/experience would be appreciated as i will be doing this at Offutt AFB's shop.

So far i have/am waiting for the following:

Parts:
GSC S2s
GSC S3 valve springs and retainers
ARP head studs
MAP 87mm eco series gasket kit
GSC zero tick lifters
Gates timing belt
GSC race balance shaft
GSC adjustable cam gears
GSC stock size intake valves
GSC stock size exhaust valves
new exhaust manifold gasket
new intake manifold gasket

Attempting to buy vortecd's head consisting of:
5-Axis CNC Head Porting
CNC Chambers
NEWEN CNC Competition Radius Valve Job
Bronze Valve Guides Machined
CBN resurfaced
Designed for Stock Valves
Reliable for Power in the 1000WHP range
Hi Temp Viton valve stem seals

TOOLS:
AEM Cam gear alignment tool
Mitsubishi valve spring compressor

Is there anything else that i should be looking into? Am i way off base with this upgrade/install? Any information would be amazing!
Thanks all,
Rschanaman
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 04:20 AM
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Anybody have any advice?
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 06:51 AM
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Send your head to Curt Brown.
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 09:17 AM
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there is a fully prepped,unused AMS race head for sale in the vendor classified section for $2000.i would jump all over that if i needed a head.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 02:57 AM
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Thanks for the replies. I would look into those but i already have the head on the way. Any thoughts as to the set up?
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 09:00 AM
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Sounds like a strong build
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 11:24 PM
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I'm not sure what you mean when you say you want to have the head "vorteced"
The entire section you posted on machine work is filled with buzz words, It's certainly important to get a quality port job, and CNC porting is my favorite way to go.
The GSC balance shaft kit is probably a good idea too, but be aware that the balance shafts are in the bottom end of the engine, and require a LOT more work to install than simply pulling the head.
Do you have a 2.4 stroker?
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 01:54 AM
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What are the flow vs lift numbers of the CNC'd head?
What valve spring seat pressure do you want to run?
Was the chamber profiled/machined to suit the piston size you want to run?

It looks like you want to run large power, I would recommend MAP H11/L19 headstuds.

I had my cylinder head ported, flowed and the valve seats cut with a Newen Contour CNC machine too. Awesome results.
I'm glad you stuck with stock sized valves, we cut a 1mm oversize valve on the stock seat (1mm oversize cut, stock seat) and lost flow.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 08:24 AM
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Vortecd is a user on here lol. He didnt want the head anymore as he was going a different way with his build. I will get the flow vs lift numbers from him and as for the spring pressure it will be whatever the gsc s3s are. I believe theyre right around 68 lbs at 1.56". The bottom end in the car is stock for now but will be hopefully upgrading to a Buschur 2.1 soon. While waiting and deciding which route i want to go i will be building the head so i will determine pistons then. One other question is will i be able to bolt this to the stock bottom as long as i dont rev over 8000 if i get it done before i get the 2.1?

Last edited by rschanaman; Aug 9, 2012 at 08:49 AM.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 12:26 PM
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I don't like ur set up
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 07:31 AM
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^Why?
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 08:55 AM
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I'd recommend a Cosworth instead of the Eco HG, too.

Last edited by Blue91lx; Aug 10, 2012 at 06:46 PM.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 04:54 PM
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Thanks for the information. I was debating which gasket to do. I think the HG is a little to thick for what my short term goals are.
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