Hello.

I'm looking to build a frankenstein and I'm curious about how to build it.

This is a 2003 Evo 8 and from what I read the 4G64 is a great way to pick up displacement but what I'm curious about is what has to be done
to make the block usable? Do I need the oil squirters?

AWD has a core + crank for $500.

http://www.awdmotorsports.com/produc...64-w-crank.htm

Is it default .20 over bore than a 4G63?

If so then I could just order some Wiseco HD pistons .20 over and they'll just work right?

Do you all think the crank should be replaced or will the stock 4G64 crank be fine?

My power goal is only 500-550HP.

Thank you EvoM!

 

Search...

 

They're 86.5mm bore and the stock bore for Evos is 85mm. .020 over is 85.5mm.

 

you may be getting in over your head

 

I may be getting in over my head but that's why I'm here.
I thought this was a forum where a person can get help / understanding and not 'go away, you don't know what you're doing dude'.

Ok, So what about Evo X pistons? 86.5mm bore?

I still want to hear if an Evo 8 really needs the squirters as during a 'search' I found a guy who said he isn't using them and he's putting 550hp to the wheels.

What about the stock transmission? Should I just dial down the timing to kill some torque or will that be fine if I'm doing say 520whp and 400lbs torque?

Thanks guys!

 

Ya that's what you say when you don't know the answers.

 

87mm bore (.020" over)
100mm stroke
piston depend on the rods, 150mm is stock, or you can go 156mm for a "long rod" motor
squirters are 100% not needed
stock 4g64 crank is fine
english racing water pump
cometic 87mm or ams modded 87mm head gasket

 

I would never tell anyone 100% that they dont need squirters, certain situations do require them. If it did not then engineers would have NEVER made them. People that live in certain parts of the U.S might not see over 100F, hence oil squirters do not help. In fact they may even suffer some oil pressure loss. Yes this can be fixed by a better oil pump, that i have not seen made yet (later discussion). Bottom line if your worried about oil pressure loss from squirters, then fix the oil pressure problem.

Forged Pistons can handle more heat than your stock Cast pistons, Hence why you dont see engines without Squirters going bad everyday (Side note: we do not hear about the cause of most engine failures).

So in theory with a built motor it can last a while without them, And think of the amount of money you save by not having them machined into a 4G64 Block. With a good engine builder and properly tuned engine, you can push your engine to the limits and just smile all day long.

Or say you actually race your Evo EVERY weekend in the summer, and already spent a lot of money on your engine. Plus you live in Nevada or Arizona....would the extra cooling provided by squirters give you peace of mind?

Its why this subject gets argued over, because it is a OPTION.

 

Ok, One more question.

Do you really have to bore the 4g64 from 86.5mm to 87mm?

wiseco has hd 1400's in 86.5mm bore ..

So wouldn't it be fine to just drop those in?

I'm thinking
wiseco hd pistons 86.5mm bore.
manley h-beam 156mm rods.

Thoughts?

Thanks guys!

 

Not true what so ever. I have a fully built 2.4L LR sitting in my garage that I have built 100% with knowledge and data that I have found on this site, and only this site.

So I am going to say the same thing; All your answers are on here. Search and read. Then search some more, and read some more. People are getting tired of spoon feeding every new person that comes on here once a month about building a motor.

Anyhow, back to the OP: Search, all your answers are on here.

 

I'll play nice and answer a few of these questions though...

No, you don't *really* have to bore the 4G64 to 87mm, but I don't know of any real good reason why you wouldn't do that.

Generally speaking, 4G64's are "usually" high mileage "commuter" car motors, and could use a freshening up of the cylinder bores. Who knows what your cylinder walls truly are unless you measure their straightness, bore for roundness, taper, etc... I think about the only time I would ever *personally* use a drop in piston is on a very low mileage motor (Say sub 15k) where the cylinder walls have the least amount of wear. Even then, measure measure and measure before you even buy the drop in pistons to verify it will even work before buying them.

Also, with the 156mm rods, you better keep in mind that your block might have to be clearanced for those rods. Some do not hit, but they are very very close to the internal casting seams on the block. You might have 1/16" of an inch clearance, but at 8,500 rpm who knows how much that clearance is reduced. I made sure I had approx 1/8" min when I clearanced and deburred the inside of my block for my 2.4LR.

All in all, your statement of "So wouldn't it be fine to just drop those in?" seems quite overly simplistic. There is a lot more to it than just "slapping" stuff together.