IX Oil Pressure Problems: Solved
Hey gang,
So ever since getting my IX up and running again--I was away at school for a few years and not driving the car that much--I had been having issues with my oil pressure light coming on, sometimes flickering sometimes solidly illuminated, but couldn't pinpoint the exact cause. I started this thread and searched all over the forums for potential causes and/or solutions. Many mentioned that it could be as simple as an oil pressure switch. With my symptoms, I even found some threads mentioning crank walk and so I assumed the worst. Well turns out it was a pretty easy fix...
I took the car back to my
dealer, which actually turned out to be an incredibly pleasant experience, to have their techs take a look. This is their diagnostic report:
"Technician checked the oil sensor switch. The switch is weak - comes on early. There is corrosion on the connector. Technician recommends replacing the oil senor sending unit switch then rechecking"
...and their solution...
"Technician replaced the oil senor sending unit switch. Tech removed the space connector and installed an eyelet. Fastened to sensor with screw for a better connection."
SUMMARY
Symptoms:
Oil light would flickr/stay on after oil was up to normal operating temp. Car ran poorly and would occasionally sputter and stall when clutch was pressed in, especially when going into neutral after high speed/load situation (e.g. coming onto highway off-ramp).
Solution:
Replaced oil pressure sender switch (
part#1258A003). Technician also modified the switch for better connection (see tech report above).
So there it is. The car seems much happier and I couldn't be more pleased with the service department at my dealership (Schaller
). All together the repair cost $182.80 with $38.80 of that total coming from the part itself. 
So ever since getting my IX up and running again--I was away at school for a few years and not driving the car that much--I had been having issues with my oil pressure light coming on, sometimes flickering sometimes solidly illuminated, but couldn't pinpoint the exact cause. I started this thread and searched all over the forums for potential causes and/or solutions. Many mentioned that it could be as simple as an oil pressure switch. With my symptoms, I even found some threads mentioning crank walk and so I assumed the worst. Well turns out it was a pretty easy fix...
I took the car back to my
dealer, which actually turned out to be an incredibly pleasant experience, to have their techs take a look. This is their diagnostic report:"Technician checked the oil sensor switch. The switch is weak - comes on early. There is corrosion on the connector. Technician recommends replacing the oil senor sending unit switch then rechecking"
...and their solution...
"Technician replaced the oil senor sending unit switch. Tech removed the space connector and installed an eyelet. Fastened to sensor with screw for a better connection."
SUMMARY
Symptoms:
Oil light would flickr/stay on after oil was up to normal operating temp. Car ran poorly and would occasionally sputter and stall when clutch was pressed in, especially when going into neutral after high speed/load situation (e.g. coming onto highway off-ramp).
Solution:
Replaced oil pressure sender switch (
part#1258A003). Technician also modified the switch for better connection (see tech report above). So there it is. The car seems much happier and I couldn't be more pleased with the service department at my dealership (Schaller
). All together the repair cost $182.80 with $38.80 of that total coming from the part itself.
So your stalling issue (which is commonly the false MAF high load issue) was fixed by replacing the oil pressure sender? Or are you saying it was just the oil light issue that is now solved. Sounds like you mean both...
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