@intj123

I honestly think that's the problem. How did you fix it? Or did you end up just replacing the clutch? There is about 30k on mine. Like I stated above, I already ordered a new comp stage 2 clutch but I would like to prolong my current clutch until it HAS to be replaced haha. Thanks for the help.

 

Can't fix it, gotta replace. It was a ***** to get home that night I had to do clutchless rev match shifting for like 25 miles, mostly freeway though luckily with no traffic.

 

Is clutchless driving bad for your tranny? How do you start it in first gear. I've done it before but only when I got it moving...

 

Hey op I my self have a comp stage 2 and I just hit about 800 miles on it and I can't say enough great things about it it so far the best clutch I've had in a car sorry a little off topic lol good luck man also I had the same issue in my 2g eclipse and turned out it was a bad master clutch cylinder maybe that can help not sure good luck again

 

If you are good at it, then the damage can be very minimal to maybe no damage at all, I wouldn't recommend trying to commute doing it, I only did it as an emergency way to get my *** home without paying the tow truck guy late at night.

I had alot of experience doing it in my old car so I just went for it on the evo. First gear was the same I think, just put slight pressure on the shifter into 1st while revving up and it should pop in when the rev matches. I don't remember how it engaged but I think I was able to do it without too much jerking.

 

If you have to questoin how to bleed the clutch, that clutch swap might be a little to much for you. I've done a bunch of clutch swaps on many makes and model cars and nothing is like a clutch swap on a evo X. There's lots of little tips and tricks that will help make it easy just do lots of research and make sure you have a few days for your car to be down.
A few tips...

• Disconnect your lower ball joints not the struts
• Lower the subframe about 1 inch, the bolts are long
• Make sure you remove the top trans mount before trying to get the trans on the ground. its the back one that will give you hell. should be black in color
• Make sure you support your oil pan with wood

That's all i can think of off the top of my head

 

@DsmGuy86

Thanks for the validation. Definitely makes me feel better about my decision to go with that clutch haha. Hopefully I don't need to replace it quite yet but if I do have to then it puts my mind at ease.

@intj123

Hmm OK....that may be the only option for me seeing as how its stuck on the side of the street at my friends house right now haha. I would rather see if I could drive it back to my place than pay a tow truck. I live 50 miles away all freeway so if I can get it on the freeway I think we will be good. Plus the tow truck towing for 50 miles will cost me an arm and a leg! Haha

 

@terrible

I was just seeing if there was any special methods with our types of cars just to make sure I didn't miss anything. I will make sure to keep all of those pointers in mind if I do end up doing the clutch myself. Thanks for the insight

 

Have you checked your brake fluid level? I had the same problem as you and wound up master cylinder was low on fluid due to worn down brake pads. The brake master cylinder feeds the clutch as well and is divided in the rear of master cylinder. It will look full from front but if you look in the back of the master cylinder it might be empty.
Hope this helps.

 

@joshl'sevo8

So I don't think that's the problem because when I look at the slave cylinder and have someone push the clutch pedal in, I can see the cylinder moving and releasing the pressure plate...wouldn't that mean that the cylinder is getting fluid?

 

Google "evomoto clutch change" and you'll find a good guide. Follow it step by step. If you have a 9 you'll have to deal with the acd line. That isn't in the evomoto guide. There's one bolt on the tcase you can't remove unless you remove the acd line. I put a rag around it and pinch it closed with 2 sets of vice grips. Then I just remove it long enough to get the bolt out and put it back on. When you're done you have to bleed the acd system too.

The hardest part about the whole job is getting the tranny back in the car and bolted up. It's quite heavy and there's no room to move. The clearance to other parts of the car is so tight.

I've done it twice on my car now. I was a lot faster the second time. label and bag all your bolts so you don't get them mixed up.

BTW the comp is the third clutch I've driven in my evo and I like it by far the best. It's very near stock feel but definitely grippy. I think it's the best choice for under 400 hp if you like to daily it and don't do much racing.

 

Just get under the car and watch the fork that will tell you if the slave is working fine. If you have plenty of movement of your fork and you can see the PP open there's no need to check the clutch hydraulic system.

I did notice the the brake reservoir needs to be full near the top for the clutch to work right. When you go to bleed it, it won't bleed right unless it's brim full.

 

You are right, if you can see the rod pushing the fork to the throw out bearing, there is most likely nothing wrong with your clutch master or fluid or lines. I'm pretty sure your disk is fused, especially if you have driven it hard repeatedly with 30k miles. Either that or the TOB could be broken like the others have said(unlikely if you feel the pressure plate resistance through the pedal), but same thing you would have to drop the tranny to get to it. He was just trying to make sure you cover everything before trying to go through the hassle of dropping the tranny, but to be frank, I think you probably will have to cuz it seems you checked everything you could before the clutch/tob/tranny internals.

Do you drive an evo 10? I'm not all that familiar with the setup on 10's. I've done clutches on 8 and 9's only.

 

OK so I was finally able to get the car jacked up and after examining the transmission inspection hole, I have come to the conclusion that the disk is fused. I can see the pressure plate moving when someone pushes on the clutch pedal.....competition stage 2 clutch it is. Guess its not all that bad seeing as how everyone has said nothing but good things about it. Plus I usually like to research a part before pulling the trigger and reviews were pretty good for the cost.

@intj123- I drive a x but I also have a 9 mr. That's the one with the fused clutch.

Thanks everyone for the info and help. Ill update as soon as I get my tranny opened up to confirm the problem. Wish me luck! Haha

 

hey buddy just a little more info for you im over a 1000 miles in on the clutch and its still going perfect i plan on pushing m power from 401 to around 530 im adding a few more parts and going e85 ill be writing another review at that power level but good luck man you wont regret the comp stage 2 im not turning back just hope it holds the new power as well good luck buddy