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clutch problem? need some insight

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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 06:50 AM
  #31  
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Hello, i'm new here. Just got my evo 8 2004 5 speed. I read thru a lot and learn a tons of good information here in this forum. Yeah have the same problem here. Pressed the clutch but won't engage to the gear? I bought this car used. I wonder I have to get the clutch replaced too? I also noticed that shifting is really hard and felt heavy. Is that normal? This is the first time having an Evo. The seller told me it is due to cable shifter is different than hydrolic shifter like my old car Acura Rsx? I felt he is bs me. What you guys think?
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 07:51 AM
  #32  
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@Accountant- follow the steps mentioned in this thread. These guys were very helpful

*update* so I have my car in the shop right now. I will let you guys know whats wrong once I have everything taken apart
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 06:47 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by teribble
If you have to questoin how to bleed the clutch, that clutch swap might be a little to much for you. I've done a bunch of clutch swaps on many makes and model cars and nothing is like a clutch swap on a evo X. There's lots of little tips and tricks that will help make it easy just do lots of research and make sure you have a few days for your car to be down.
A few tips...
  • Disconnect your lower ball joints not the struts
  • Lower the subframe about 1 inch, the bolts are long
  • Make sure you remove the top trans mount before trying to get the trans on the ground. its the back one that will give you hell. should be black in color
  • Make sure you support your oil pan with wood
That's all i can think of off the top of my head
al god tips. I feel like there is a lot more to remove before actually getting to the trans on this car than on others. that being, said lower the sub frame and/or notch the driver side lip at the most rear section of the sub frame. If you grind out that like 1x1 inch piece, that rans falls right out. many shops do this, and if you are doing it on your back, i recommend the same
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 02:45 PM
  #34  
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From: MinneSNOWta
Thank you for this thread. This happened to me on Sept. 27th 2012 and I have been searching high and low for some help or info. I replaced the CMC and slave thinking that was the issue - 7 hours and two very cut up hands and a wrecked back later it solved nothing and I was having the same clutch pedal down - no shift issue stated in OP.

I knew it wasn't TOB cause I had pedal, but I also heard that flywheel bolts backing out and disk springs coming loose can cause this issue too. Sounds to me like I've got a fused clutch!

I'll be (hopefully) getting into the trans this weekend, pending MN weather and how freakin cold it's been lately, and see if that's the case.

Please keep this thread updated with any info you find out OP, I appreciate it!!
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 08:12 AM
  #35  
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Hey guys sorry it took so long for me to update but I finally got the tranny out and.................. YUP it was a fused clutch. It was pretty tough getting it apart, not so much from the flywheel but the pressure plate and throwout bearing was a pain. Also I think one of the pressure plate bolts was installed crooked because it snapped when I tried to unscrew it? Anyways just wanted to say thanks for the help and input!

@DsmGuy86- comp stage 2 clutch was definitely a good choice! I love it and it just feels so solid and handles my power perfectly. Thanks for the validation!

@2004EvoVIII- yeah apparently this happens somewhat often. How many miles on the current clutch? It sounds like you're having the same problem. If you do need to replace your clutch, get a comp stage 2 kit. I am 100% satisfied and for the money, you can't beat it
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 08:35 AM
  #36  
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From: MinneSNOWta
Originally Posted by Andrevo
Hey guys sorry it took so long for me to update but I finally got the tranny out and.................. YUP it was a fused clutch. It was pretty tough getting it apart, not so much from the flywheel but the pressure plate and throwout bearing was a pain. Also I think one of the pressure plate bolts was installed crooked because it snapped when I tried to unscrew it? Anyways just wanted to say thanks for the help and input!

@2004EvoVIII- yeah apparently this happens somewhat often. How many miles on the current clutch? It sounds like you're having the same problem. If you do need to replace your clutch, get a comp stage 2 kit. I am 100% satisfied and for the money, you can't beat it
I've got...maybe 9k miles on this clutch? The clutch itself is under warranty (12 months, 12k miles) and I bought it April of 2012 so I am covered since the car obviously isn't moving, lol. I am looking at new clutches because I have decided to do the following: Get the clutch under warranty (free) and replace it over the winter (free). All the while I'll be saving up for a new clutch...again...
The reasoning behind this is personal, I won't get into it so no point in asking.

I've been looking at the ACT clutches, when I bought this car it had an ACT 6 puck and it was great. Idk how long it was on the car previously as I bought it from the second owner who had the car from 56k - 96k miles. It went from 96k - 122k for me before it totally failed. I'll take a look into the comp stage 2 but a lot of people from my area haven't had really good things to say about it. But then again, mostly everybody is obsessed with needing MOAR power out of there car where as I am perfectly OK with my basically stock car and therefore don't need or want a $1,600 clutch. Or even a clutch that's over $800 for that matter, haha.

I'll make sure to take pictures when I get mine apart, don't have my good camera anymore (damn ex's...) but hopefully the iPhone camera will do ok!
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 02:39 PM
  #37  
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Yeah its pretty strange because when I removed the clutch there was still a lot of life left in it. Probably a good year or so of normal driving......
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 02:49 PM
  #38  
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From: MinneSNOWta
Originally Posted by Andrevo
Yeah its pretty strange because when I removed the clutch there was still a lot of life left in it. Probably a good year or so of normal driving......
This almost makes me want to try and get it un stuck from each other without needing to do a "full" clutch job. Maybe try and pry them apart from the peep hole area or something and see what happens. Almost. The reason I won't is because I do NOT want to do another clutch job again in XX days/months when they fuse again, lol.
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 07:53 PM
  #39  
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Haha I actually tried to pry it apart without any luck. I also tried to use the torque and HP of the car to break it loose. Try this: try and get the car to an open area(I just pushed the car out onto my street and did it there).with the car off, put the car into first, depress clutch then start the car and give it some gas(make sure to give it gas or else it will just jerk forward and die ha) then once you get going, keep you clutch pushed in all the way and start pumping the gas slowly to raise and lower the RPMs. If its not fused too tightly and with a little luck, it should break loose.

Good luck
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 08:52 PM
  #40  
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From: MinneSNOWta
What the hell, I'll give it a shot. Friday begins the day/weekend from hell!
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 07:43 AM
  #41  
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Haha alright man. Keep me posted!
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 11:21 AM
  #42  
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its most likely the linkage, fing the adjustment yyou'll be good
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 12:07 PM
  #43  
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From: MinneSNOWta
Here is the order in which this will be worked at:

1. Try and do this to see if I can make something happen:
Originally Posted by Andrevo
get the car to an open area (I just pushed the car out onto my street and did it there). with the car off, put the car into first, depress clutch then start the car and give it some gas(make sure to give it gas or else it will just jerk forward and die ha) then once you get going, keep you clutch pushed in all the way and start pumping the gas slowly to raise and lower the RPMs. If its not fused too tightly and with a little luck, it should break loose.
2. If #1 doesn't work I'll be going in and checking the fork/TOB from inspection plate.

3. Mess with adjustments and linkages in shifting and CMC to pedal arm.

4. If all else fails Exedy stage 1 organic clutch kit will be going in

I'm also going to be doing shifter bushing kits from STM while the car is down.
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 08:25 AM
  #44  
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Ha alright good luck. Let us know what happens
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 12:33 PM
  #45  
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From: MinneSNOWta
Got home from work last night and tried number 1 before putting it in the garage on stands to be worked on. Here's how it went:

Started car in neutral and let it warm up for about 10 minutes before attempting this, didn't want to strain it too much, lol. After letting it idle for a bit and get oil through the system I shut the car off and started it in first gear. Had clutch pushed in and started it up, gave it some gas and got the car running. It wouldn't move and after about 10 seconds I started hearing a grinding noise, probably clutch trying to break loose or something. THEN the fun began, the car wouldn't even move at all, and I was able to let the pedal off the floor and not give it any gas at all and the car wouldn't die, lol. Then the smoke started coming from the hood scoop area from the clutch burning and I shut the car off.

I put the car into the garage and got it up in the air with front bumper and wheels off before dark last night, was gonna do more but found out I lost my shoplight, so I got pissed and called it a night. Picked up a ton of stuff today (MTF, torque solutions cable shifter bushings, gloves, shoplights, tools, etc..) so I will be getting to work on options 2 and 3 here shortly.

Option 4 has been replaced with Comp stage 2 after talking with my other job and having a meeting with the Comp clutch rep to find out that they recently started making their clutches MUCH better as of 2 weeks ago. So I can get that for under $400 shipped and that's what I'm going with!
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