I tried searching a bit, and really couldn't see anything fitting. Recently, I had my 4G63 rebuillt to a 2.3L. I fired the car up for the first time yesterday. After about 10 minutes on idle, the oil pressure light came on. The car currently idles ar 1000RPM. If I give it alittle gas, say to bring the RPM up to 1100-1200, the light goes away. My build is nothing special, typical Wiseco piston, Manley H-beam, 4G64 100mm crank. I'm using OEM Evo main and rod bearings, and all clearance done by the machine shop. I'm unsure if the clearance are any bigger than stock, so I will check when I get home. I also did the GSC balace shaft delete. THe head received the entire GSC catalog of component, but no port or polish. I did install a Kiggly HLA.

I just order a new OEM oil sneding unit as I read its common on the 8 to go bad. Are there anything else I should be looking for?

 

you can get a mechanical gauge for ~$20 just to check for the meantime = sanity check from a local automotive place = kragen/pepboys/autozone

what weight oil was used? hopefully the bearings were rotated for the balance shaft delete.

 

I appreciate your response. The bearign was rotated for the balance shaft delete. I put in Castrol GTX 10w40 for the initial start up. The engine ran for about 15 minutes max.

 

No one else has ideas for me to look into?

 

With the money you have invested, you want a gauge on it pronto.

 

The factory idiot light sensors are known to go bad. I had one go bad on my first evo. As soon as I would come to a stop, the light would come on. I put a gauge in and my pressure was fine. Get ya a quick mechanical gauge and throw it on just for safe measure to make sure you pressure is correct.

 

Did you rotate both balance shaft bearings in the front or just the one closest to the pump? You have to do both of them.

What are your clearances on the mains?

 

+1 on having to do both bearings.

Is the light on after a cold start? Your oil pressure should be high if the oil is cold.

 

Ahhhhh thank you!

 

make sure to get a cheap mech. oil pressure gauge real quick and check just for precaution.

 

I doubt it makes that much difference... (sarcasm)

 

Okay, so I finally had some time tonight to get some things done. I put on a mechanical pressure, and after the car fully warmed up, the gauge showed 10psi. The light was out for a long time, and then started flashing. Anyone know exactly what idle pressure should be?

Next, with the light flashing, I proceeded to change the oem pressure sensor. My car has 150k on it, and the snesor was left on when at the machine shop. Taking some advice form here, I changed the sensor, and the light is now completely off. I'm still a little skeptical the pressure is not high enough. I've heard of shimming the spring inside the housing, and also running a thicker oil due to larger bearing clearance.

I appreciate all the help thus far.

 

Put 20W50 in it, and see where the oil pressure is at.

You want at least 10 psi per 1000 RPM. Assuming your idle is around 1000 rpm, 10psi is the bare minimum.

 

Thanks for your response. I've heard the 10psi/1000rpm; yes, my idle is right at 1k rpm.

The motor is still new and only ran for about 30mins on and off so far. I'm draining the oil tomorrow, and putting in Amsoil SAE30 Break-In oil for the break-in period. I will follow up with a thicker oil once that is done. I'll be keeping my eye on the pressure for sure.

 

Waste of money going to the 'break in' oil. Off the shelf VR1 has more than enough zinc/phos for the engine at any given point in it's life.

If it was mine, I'd put in VR1 20W50 tomorrow. And as much as the botique oil supports would like to agree, any off the shelf 20W50 has ample zinc/phos for the motor, unless you're running a FP journal bearing turbo, in which case the VR1 has plenty.