I agree. Trunking it really cleans up the engine compartment and gives you a lot more room to work with. Not to mention moving all that weight just ahead of the rear tires.

 

I have the 680 (under my pass. seat).
I just had to get a jump start. (which was kinda cool testing the jump-ability of my set-up).
My car has set for a month, then started about 6-8 times and only run at idle for 2-3 mins, (I was installing an EGT).
I drove it for 2 miles, shut it off. When I tried to start it,"click, click, click".
It jumped fine.
I have a battery tender hooked to it now.
I may re-consider the stock battery moved to the trunk.

 

agreed it is cleaner however all the tracks out here in California require you to have an exterior cut off switch if you have a relocated battery. Frankly it isnt worth the hassle and I do go to the track often enough for it to be a hassle.

I got the 680MJ for 90 delivered off of eBay with SAE terminals.

 

Does the switch need to be external or does it just have to be operable from the exterior. If it only needs to be only operable from the exterior, you can put a switch inside the engine compartment and set it up so it can be operated by a cable with the actuator sticking out of the grille or a plastic coated cable loop sticking out the side of the hood.

 

the rules say it has to be accessible from the outside, in the rear of the vehicle. i head a suggestion of putting it in the trunk and then taking the trunk lid off when racing hahah....

 

does anyone have a relocation kit out or no...

-non

 

pepboys, kragen, buschur, etc.

They are pretty universal but i think BR actually has one that includes the small battery. I could be wrong as I often am. I used the pepboys one, included wire, hold down and tray.