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I need some help with timing belt install - Evo 9

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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 06:23 PM
  #46  
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How's it coming along? I recently just did this so it's fresh in my mind....
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 06:58 PM
  #47  
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oh it's already done, thanks. I got the tension set just right to where when I flick the little wire they send in the tensioner, it spins freely about 15 times. To me that says the belt is perfect, and I've already spun the crank around about 20times just to make sure everything is good and all the timing marks line up perfectly.

the fact that the original belt was about 1 tooth off on the crank is why I was concerned and made this thread. I was expecting to unbolt everything and see a perfect set TDC but I didn't find that. I figured everything on re-install needed to be set to TDC perfectly, but figured I would ask if there was a reason it was slightly BTDC.

Anyways, thanks to those that helped me out
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 07:02 PM
  #48  
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oh and in case someone searches for help some day - the trick I found to getting the water pump pulley off really easy is to have your cheater bar in the tensioner coming out the front of the car near the headlight. After you remove your motor mount, put a 1/4" ratchet with a 10mm socket on it down through that motor mount space and then while you're leaving over your fender, pull the cheater bar up with your foot and this will relax the belt. Then you can rotate the pulley to get the bolt in the area of the motor mount where you can easily loosen it and once it's in the right spot, let the cheater car down and that will tighten the belt and hold the pulley in place for easy removal of the bolts. Remove it and repeat for the other 3 bolts.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 03:36 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by ILuvJDM
and I suppose every single write-up was wrong too. Funny how nobody says to do it the way you said, yet I'm magically supposed to know that this is the right way to do it
not funny , comical id say , have fun
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 05:10 AM
  #50  
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it's already done, and was done before you recommended the other method.... comical
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 09:47 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by ILuvJDM
it's already done, and was done before you recommended the other method.... comical
easy say that now
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 10:12 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by todd6027
easy say that now

huh? You posted a day after I said I had done the starter bump and was done with that portion of the project and said "do it this way." You're a little late, captain



had you posted that advice before I got the bolt out I would have probably done it your way, but I was already done so there's no use in even talking about "the other way" and how great it is
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 06:07 PM
  #53  
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so the manual calls for some oil on the crank bolt. Should I do oil or blue loctite? opinions?
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 10:36 AM
  #54  
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Probably too late but don't use loctite.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 11:00 AM
  #55  
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^^^^^^ yeah, no loctite
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 11:54 AM
  #56  
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I have everything on except the crank nut and pulley so I'll just put a little engine oil on there like the call for
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 07:09 PM
  #57  
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Are you going to re-torque the crank bolt to spec using the starter? Im about to do mine so im wondering what tricks I should use and which ones are not good. I personally dont like the starter idea for the fact that how am I going to re torque the bolt to spec? I think ill do it by removing crank sensor, it seems easier and less bs.
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 10:37 PM
  #58  
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If you out the car in 5th gear and wheels are on the ground the engine will not turn over and you can torque the Crank bolt using a tq wrench. It will move a little but until it takes the slop out of the transmission but then it will stop. Do not use the starter to install the Crank pulley.
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 05:26 AM
  #59  
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yeah my car was on jackstands so I had it in 5th and had my girlfriend hold the brakes while I torqued it down
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 03:56 PM
  #60  
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Good stuff!
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