Reset my ECU today....again..... When ever my idle gets to around 700 rpm, i reset and ime back up to 900 for a week. This is getting old. The intake is really screwing with things. Might put back the factory unit. Or should i EXED it? Suggestions would be great... RRR

 

rraulston: have you searched for any possible leaks? loose connections? etc? any of these may cause for a variation in idle rpm. have you noticed any difference in driving characteristics? just curious...as i currently have a rmr intake setup, but am getting no side effects whatsoever. i would assume that a pipe(since the k&n is basically the same as the rmr...but with a velocity stack and inlet pipe) that it shouldn't effect it that much.

 

no leaks. People keep saying that the intake fools the maf sensor or somthing. So i figured the ECU keeps adjusting somthing to compensate. It idles rough at 700 but when i reset, it idles like butter smooth at 900rpm. Also pulls harder for awhile. Who knows, i guess ill keep resetting it. RRR

 

I know you prolly like the awesome sound but the easy fix would be to take it off. The xede or x flash or any other reflash based system will be able to address and MAF misreading issues but by essentially "tuning out" Your pretty expensive intake (Performance wise) You will have the sound but the gains will be gone- It is a nice intake though Just to be fair Al claims to have maps for this system. The Vishnu units will need a custom tune- you might want to contact shiv to see if he has tuned one in SF

 

I’ve also read that hard intakes mess with the MAF. I think the only way to compensate for it is some alternative fuel management (SAFC or reflash). I’m personally waiting to get a SAFC before I upgrade to a hard intake.

 

Nice to see some solid advice, very PC too

 

did you put your BOV in backwards. some people say the instruction has it backwards.I have the k&n, and it was doing that. but i have a greddy tybe s bov.i just took out the smaller spring in the bov and everything works great.

 

on initial installation, the bov was on backwards. Yes, picture 25 in the instructions say to put it on backwards, but after a quick drive, i discovered it and fixed it. I will order the greddy BOV with adapter soon. I will also be looking for a tune. In the DEC modified mag ( i think) they lost 30 HP after the evo engine build up. They dynod after every add on and the intake killed em. It was a good article and parallels my situation exactly. RRR

 

Unfortunately, Al does not have a flash set up for the Typhoon intake. He told me that if you have a typhoon intake, when you get the flash he maps it for the Buscher because they are similar.

 

eve-slow is correct, I had the Dynoflash after the install of this intake and everything runs VERY nice! Another suggestion...did you install the black 'air dam' that routes the air to the oem airbox, or did you not install it? I originally thought it wouldn't be needed, (to be honest, I wasn't happy with how it connects to the intake) I left it off...got on it one, and it immediately threw a cel. Since resetting the ecu, and installing the air guide, no cel, just clean power!

 

and BTW, I too must give props to MP5 for the nice explanation he gave as well!

 

What is the black "air dam"?

 

it's the black piece that is surrounded by foam that, when the hood is closed, it directs air to the airbox. It's somewhat 'L' shaped, and connected to the OEM airbox...hope that helps; sorry to confuse!

 

Thanks. BTW I would also leave the airdam in place as it does direct air directly onto the filter

 

totally agree...learned the 'hard way'...if it's not there...put it back on!