clutch break in
clutch break in
To my fellow evo friends here
, i just installed a new 6 puck sprung competition clutch.Question do i really need to break this thing in for 300 miles?I can understand no launches but can't i just get on it like i usually do or do i need to stay out of boost and drive like 60
until 300 miles.I would like to get some responses here see what you guys usually do with a new clutch thanks.
, i just installed a new 6 puck sprung competition clutch.Question do i really need to break this thing in for 300 miles?I can understand no launches but can't i just get on it like i usually do or do i need to stay out of boost and drive like 60 until 300 miles.I would like to get some responses here see what you guys usually do with a new clutch thanks.
I usually take it easy on my clutches for about 3-500 miles depending on the clutch. Meaning no launches and no wot pulls. I go into boost a little and you can cruise above 60 just try not to put all the tq down on the clutch. That's my opinion
Break-in is important with any clutch but for different reasons.
With an organic (street type) friction material, break-in helps to increase clutch life. Initially an organic will hold more power, but weare rapidly. Proper break-in helps to lap the surfaces to a stage where they finally have a low consistent wear rate. If not allowed to break-in, or if ever severely overheated (defeating the break-in) will dramatically increase wear.
A cerametallic (puck style) clutch requires proper break-in to hold more power and have less tendancy to fuse to the mating surfaces when hot. By lapping in the surfaces thru break-in, the cerametallic material is able to gain full contact and therefore distribute the heat more uniformly. I am not sure about CC puck materials, but with some cerametallic materials, you can accelerate the break-in if done properly. This is commonly done on race cars that cannot afford the additional mileage on the engine/car. I won't get into the "how" to do this since it is easy to get wrong and ruin a clutch.
Proper break-in has little to do with boost or rpm, but everything to do with slippage. Of course the only time a clutch should slip is when it you are engaging a new gear. Don't allow high power to go through the clutch during your shifts, but do allow the clutch to slip some during low power shifts and take offs in order to break-in the clutch.
With an organic (street type) friction material, break-in helps to increase clutch life. Initially an organic will hold more power, but weare rapidly. Proper break-in helps to lap the surfaces to a stage where they finally have a low consistent wear rate. If not allowed to break-in, or if ever severely overheated (defeating the break-in) will dramatically increase wear.
A cerametallic (puck style) clutch requires proper break-in to hold more power and have less tendancy to fuse to the mating surfaces when hot. By lapping in the surfaces thru break-in, the cerametallic material is able to gain full contact and therefore distribute the heat more uniformly. I am not sure about CC puck materials, but with some cerametallic materials, you can accelerate the break-in if done properly. This is commonly done on race cars that cannot afford the additional mileage on the engine/car. I won't get into the "how" to do this since it is easy to get wrong and ruin a clutch.
Proper break-in has little to do with boost or rpm, but everything to do with slippage. Of course the only time a clutch should slip is when it you are engaging a new gear. Don't allow high power to go through the clutch during your shifts, but do allow the clutch to slip some during low power shifts and take offs in order to break-in the clutch.
Break-in is important with any clutch but for different reasons.
With an organic (street type) friction material, break-in helps to increase clutch life. Initially an organic will hold more power, but weare rapidly. Proper break-in helps to lap the surfaces to a stage where they finally have a low consistent wear rate. If not allowed to break-in, or if ever severely overheated (defeating the break-in) will dramatically increase wear.
A cerametallic (puck style) clutch requires proper break-in to hold more power and have less tendancy to fuse to the mating surfaces when hot. By lapping in the surfaces thru break-in, the cerametallic material is able to gain full contact and therefore distribute the heat more uniformly. I am not sure about CC puck materials, but with some cerametallic materials, you can accelerate the break-in if done properly. This is commonly done on race cars that cannot afford the additional mileage on the engine/car. I won't get into the "how" to do this since it is easy to get wrong and ruin a clutch.
Proper break-in has little to do with boost or rpm, but everything to do with slippage. Of course the only time a clutch should slip is when it you are engaging a new gear. Don't allow high power to go through the clutch during your shifts, but do allow the clutch to slip some during low power shifts and take offs in order to break-in the clutch.
With an organic (street type) friction material, break-in helps to increase clutch life. Initially an organic will hold more power, but weare rapidly. Proper break-in helps to lap the surfaces to a stage where they finally have a low consistent wear rate. If not allowed to break-in, or if ever severely overheated (defeating the break-in) will dramatically increase wear.
A cerametallic (puck style) clutch requires proper break-in to hold more power and have less tendancy to fuse to the mating surfaces when hot. By lapping in the surfaces thru break-in, the cerametallic material is able to gain full contact and therefore distribute the heat more uniformly. I am not sure about CC puck materials, but with some cerametallic materials, you can accelerate the break-in if done properly. This is commonly done on race cars that cannot afford the additional mileage on the engine/car. I won't get into the "how" to do this since it is easy to get wrong and ruin a clutch.
Proper break-in has little to do with boost or rpm, but everything to do with slippage. Of course the only time a clutch should slip is when it you are engaging a new gear. Don't allow high power to go through the clutch during your shifts, but do allow the clutch to slip some during low power shifts and take offs in order to break-in the clutch.
i don't wanna have to pull my tranny anytime soon again.
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