Oil Leak-Oil found in Intake Manifold...Help
If a 9 I think you might be mixing the IM in as a false positive. Maybe. Just an idea, but I think your leak could be the MIVEC pickup bango bolt that is just over the TCase. It has a checkvalve in it, but its between the Tcase and block and gets missed. If the crush washers start to go it can leak slightly and actually spray up a tiny mist from the pressure. It leaves a mess everywhere, and you don't really see the bolt.
You should be able to get to it easily, and you can replace the washers for a couple of bucks. You should also check the other end of that hard line which is the MIVEC inlet and the MIVC solenoid. ESpecially the chamber that has the filter in it that the inlet bang connect to. That chamber has another crush washer between it and the head.
Then back to your IM. I couldn't tell from the pics, but is it darker oil at the TB intake and getting lighter? That would mean EGR if you still have it. Mine was like that from the EGR, which I then deleted, and plugged in the head. Its been clean every since. But I have had every other leak.
You should be able to get to it easily, and you can replace the washers for a couple of bucks. You should also check the other end of that hard line which is the MIVEC inlet and the MIVC solenoid. ESpecially the chamber that has the filter in it that the inlet bang connect to. That chamber has another crush washer between it and the head.
Then back to your IM. I couldn't tell from the pics, but is it darker oil at the TB intake and getting lighter? That would mean EGR if you still have it. Mine was like that from the EGR, which I then deleted, and plugged in the head. Its been clean every since. But I have had every other leak.
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Like i said they normally are heavy leaks.
Cant speak on torque spec tonight.
Future reference i crank my cArs til the srs light goes out while doing a compression test.
And yes you need to get some sort of vacuum into the case. Race setups is okay to puke into a tank, they also use some extreme vent setups and yours sound very minimal. I am following the advice of a good friend and top fuel engine builder and just installed an "evac's" kit to help curb the issues caused by stroker pistons. It would be overkill for you but anyway. The intake mani line and preturbo line are there to vacuum out the pressures of the crank case. If they arent used then serious measures need to be taken in there place. Ie evacs,vacuum pump, or dry sump kits...
Or you burn oil, reduce octane levels, build a carbon layer inside the head that creats hotspots... All of which lead to detonation... Trust me here... Anyway its late, i cant sleep, not sure this made a lick of sense because im on my phone. Best of luck. Fix your pvc system. "Positive cranckcase ventilation" incase you were wondering
Cant speak on torque spec tonight.
Future reference i crank my cArs til the srs light goes out while doing a compression test.
And yes you need to get some sort of vacuum into the case. Race setups is okay to puke into a tank, they also use some extreme vent setups and yours sound very minimal. I am following the advice of a good friend and top fuel engine builder and just installed an "evac's" kit to help curb the issues caused by stroker pistons. It would be overkill for you but anyway. The intake mani line and preturbo line are there to vacuum out the pressures of the crank case. If they arent used then serious measures need to be taken in there place. Ie evacs,vacuum pump, or dry sump kits...
Or you burn oil, reduce octane levels, build a carbon layer inside the head that creats hotspots... All of which lead to detonation... Trust me here... Anyway its late, i cant sleep, not sure this made a lick of sense because im on my phone. Best of luck. Fix your pvc system. "Positive cranckcase ventilation" incase you were wondering
I think there are a couple of different issues here that I need to address. I purchases a new oil sending unit yesterday and put it in last night. There was a mess around the old one granted there was oil all over the back of the block so it was hard to tell the source of the leak.
I am feeling confident that it was from the sending unit so hopefully the new one will resolve my issue. I applied a little black RTV around the threads and cranked it down pretty tight so hopefully it has a good seal.
Im now a little lost with my catch can setup. I agree with everything you are saying so now I need to determine what the best setup would be for my car. The pre turbo line has never been recirculated into my turbo for now almost 5 years. My Buschur MAF pipe does not have a provision for that line so I originally was running a simple breather. Now its routed into the catch can.
If I need to introduce vacuum into the system should I get another catch can and run one in line into my IM and have the other one to catch the pre turbo line?
My intentions were to not have any oil blowby or anything like that recirculated into my engine. This is why I never had id doing into my turbo and now why it hasnt been recirculated into my IM.
I guess the question is what is the best arrangement such that I can still catch the oil and crap that I dont want being recirculated, yet still introduce enough vacuum that is is re leaving everything that it should?
If a 9 I think you might be mixing the IM in as a false positive. Maybe. Just an idea, but I think your leak could be the MIVEC pickup bango bolt that is just over the TCase. It has a checkvalve in it, but its between the Tcase and block and gets missed. If the crush washers start to go it can leak slightly and actually spray up a tiny mist from the pressure. It leaves a mess everywhere, and you don't really see the bolt.
You should be able to get to it easily, and you can replace the washers for a couple of bucks. You should also check the other end of that hard line which is the MIVEC inlet and the MIVC solenoid. ESpecially the chamber that has the filter in it that the inlet bang connect to. That chamber has another crush washer between it and the head.
Then back to your IM. I couldn't tell from the pics, but is it darker oil at the TB intake and getting lighter? That would mean EGR if you still have it. Mine was like that from the EGR, which I then deleted, and plugged in the head. Its been clean every since. But I have had every other leak.
You should be able to get to it easily, and you can replace the washers for a couple of bucks. You should also check the other end of that hard line which is the MIVEC inlet and the MIVC solenoid. ESpecially the chamber that has the filter in it that the inlet bang connect to. That chamber has another crush washer between it and the head.
Then back to your IM. I couldn't tell from the pics, but is it darker oil at the TB intake and getting lighter? That would mean EGR if you still have it. Mine was like that from the EGR, which I then deleted, and plugged in the head. Its been clean every since. But I have had every other leak.

Also my EGR has been removed and blocked off so its def not from that either. I like the way you are thinking logically however IIRC I started cleaning up the ports before I snapped the picture then decided to stop and take a photo. With that being said Im not sure we can determine where the oil is more prevalent.
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I dont think my calve cover gasket is leaking. Ive replaced it along with my valve cover and the tube seals in the past. When I had an issue with my valve cover it was clearly leaking from around the valve cover.
This leak is definitely coming from somewhere lower than the valve cover. I think replacing the oil sending unit will alleviate the issue.
I think the oil that I found inside my IM was from my catch can setup. Its essentially the same setup that STM uses where the can is vented and one line runs from my PVC into the can and the other line from the valve cover breather runs to it as well.
I am still using my PCV though which is unlike the way STM has theirs setup. Any thoughts on that? Also, I have a couple spare PCV valves so how can I test to make sure that they are functioning properly?
This leak is definitely coming from somewhere lower than the valve cover. I think replacing the oil sending unit will alleviate the issue.
I think the oil that I found inside my IM was from my catch can setup. Its essentially the same setup that STM uses where the can is vented and one line runs from my PVC into the can and the other line from the valve cover breather runs to it as well.
I am still using my PCV though which is unlike the way STM has theirs setup. Any thoughts on that? Also, I have a couple spare PCV valves so how can I test to make sure that they are functioning properly?
PCV valve should allow flow in one direction and seal in the opposite direction. You may use low pressure air or blow through it to test. It shouldn't leak slightly in the second test, it should seal.
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Thanks for the info. I tested a couple of my PCV valves tonight and confirmed that they were working properly.
I am confident that we figured out the root cause of my oil leak. Now I just need to rethink my catch can setup. I am honestly stumped as to what is my best option. It seems like no matter what I do there are compromises. I do not want to have the lines go back into the IM or the pre turbo intake as I dont want to gunk them up. On the other hand the vacuum that they create from what i have read is a good think to help the oil vapors and blowby be sucked out of the valve cover.
Maybe I should run them in line that way I can catch most of the vapors yet still get some of the vacuum affects by hooking them up to vacuum sources?
I am confident that we figured out the root cause of my oil leak. Now I just need to rethink my catch can setup. I am honestly stumped as to what is my best option. It seems like no matter what I do there are compromises. I do not want to have the lines go back into the IM or the pre turbo intake as I dont want to gunk them up. On the other hand the vacuum that they create from what i have read is a good think to help the oil vapors and blowby be sucked out of the valve cover.
Maybe I should run them in line that way I can catch most of the vapors yet still get some of the vacuum affects by hooking them up to vacuum sources?
You have one already so you're 1/2 way there.
http://www.saikoumichi.com/install_pics.htm
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So I just went through this article and have read a ton of threads on here in regards to catch cans both in the past and recently. http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...a-edition.aspx
It seems that the consensus is that a vented catch can isnt ideal in terms of evacuating the blowby and I would be better off with something that introduces vacuum into the system.
On the flipside I dont want to just jun the lines straight into the IM and pre turbo intake or else I will gunk things up. It sounds like the best option is to run two catch cans inline.
Given that my current catch can is vented I am not sure that I can use it for my application. Maybe I am better off selling it in favor or a sealed catch can?
It seems that the consensus is that a vented catch can isnt ideal in terms of evacuating the blowby and I would be better off with something that introduces vacuum into the system.
On the flipside I dont want to just jun the lines straight into the IM and pre turbo intake or else I will gunk things up. It sounds like the best option is to run two catch cans inline.
Given that my current catch can is vented I am not sure that I can use it for my application. Maybe I am better off selling it in favor or a sealed catch can?
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I think you are right. Im am just trying to make sure all is well before I put her back together. Ive been stockpiling parts over the past couple of months and now have my car apart so I want to make sure that i have everything I need before I put it back together.
What ever you do don't think. ;-)
Saikoumichi products are made by a member here Saikou_kun, search around there are a few good post on how and why to keep your PCV. It's not just about global warming.
Saikoumichi products are made by a member here Saikou_kun, search around there are a few good post on how and why to keep your PCV. It's not just about global warming.
/\/\
Keep the PCV valve. it allows vacuum to pull crankcase vapours to the intake manifold and closes under boost to stop any leak of boost.
I use two small cans one between the valve cover and pcv valve ( which then goes to the manifold) and another on the line to the turbo intake from the valve cover to draw in vapours when under boost. That way I catch both ends as best as can be done with the stock lines and valve cover fittings. I have never had the dipstick blow out and do not have a spring on it. My winter boost setting peaks out at 27 psi so it is up there.
I have found that the aftermarket pcv vlaves do not hold boost..they will leak !! . I stood there in Advanced , and opened five of them and blew hard thru them mimicing the boost situation ...all of them leaked badly. One of them showed no signs of even partial closure. Only the stocker closes off completely and quickly.
Shoulda seen the Mitsu parts guy when i opened the box and tested it.....he was like ' i cant sell that 'cos you just lipped it...' my reply " And it holds boost so ring me up...you just learned something "


Keep the PCV valve. it allows vacuum to pull crankcase vapours to the intake manifold and closes under boost to stop any leak of boost.
I use two small cans one between the valve cover and pcv valve ( which then goes to the manifold) and another on the line to the turbo intake from the valve cover to draw in vapours when under boost. That way I catch both ends as best as can be done with the stock lines and valve cover fittings. I have never had the dipstick blow out and do not have a spring on it. My winter boost setting peaks out at 27 psi so it is up there.
I have found that the aftermarket pcv vlaves do not hold boost..they will leak !! . I stood there in Advanced , and opened five of them and blew hard thru them mimicing the boost situation ...all of them leaked badly. One of them showed no signs of even partial closure. Only the stocker closes off completely and quickly.
Shoulda seen the Mitsu parts guy when i opened the box and tested it.....he was like ' i cant sell that 'cos you just lipped it...' my reply " And it holds boost so ring me up...you just learned something "


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I plan to keep my PCV valce in place. I have 3 OEM valves and I tested them all the other night and confirmed that 2 seal like they should.
The plan is to weld a nipple onto my current intake pipe and then get two cans to go inline. I want to find a good sealed baffled can that doesnt cost too much money. I may try and make some out of SS but my fab skills arent fantastic so I am not so sure it its worth the hassle.
I havent found a better alternative rather than the Saikoumichi cans however I would like to get this done in the next week or so and it appears that it takes him ~3 weeks to make them. I might send him a message and see what my options are.
Thanks for your help guys!
BTW- the PCV valve that was on my car prior was the one that was clogged. Given that I was running a vented catch can with the IM and pre turbo intake capped off, do you still think that could lead to oil in my intake manifold?
The plan is to weld a nipple onto my current intake pipe and then get two cans to go inline. I want to find a good sealed baffled can that doesnt cost too much money. I may try and make some out of SS but my fab skills arent fantastic so I am not so sure it its worth the hassle.
I havent found a better alternative rather than the Saikoumichi cans however I would like to get this done in the next week or so and it appears that it takes him ~3 weeks to make them. I might send him a message and see what my options are.
Thanks for your help guys!
BTW- the PCV valve that was on my car prior was the one that was clogged. Given that I was running a vented catch can with the IM and pre turbo intake capped off, do you still think that could lead to oil in my intake manifold?






