Hmmm so its highly unlikely that its from that bolt. So I spoke with my mechanic who did my timing belt about 2 years ago now. I usually do all the work on my car but I was really busy with work and didnt feel like doing it. Anyway when I spoke with him he was pretty sure that he didnt use any sealant on the bolt for the tensioner. I trust the guy he's quite knowledgeable but doesnt work on evos really.

Ive been going back and forth with him trying to get some advice on this leak. He said if he takes it apart and its leaking from the tensioner or something isnt tight that should be he will split the labor with me. I think that is pretty fair. Something about replacing the timing belt just really turns me off and I dont really have time for my car to be down a couple days. If this leak is something that I can fix relatively easy then I dont mind but it apprears that in order to get off the lower cover the belt needs to come off and that is not something I want to do. ugh...

So in summary the seals to look out for are as follows: front main seal, rear balance shaft pulley seal and oil pump pulley seal.

Have you heard about the oil leak caused by the tensioner?

 

So I've read through these two threads: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-belt-how.html https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...placement.html a couple of times now and I am contemplating taking just doing the whole thing myself. Something about the timing belt scares me. I know im capable ive just never really dealt with the timing belt. I did the HG in my car and cams but both times just ziptied and unbolted the cam gears.

Anyway, it appears that in order to remove the lower timing cover I need to pull off the accessory belt. That's no biggie. Once that is off, then ill be able to pull off the cover and hopefully reveal the leak. Assuming some bolt is loose then I will just tighten it up and hopefully all is well. But say the tensioner bolt is leaking. What is the chance that I will be able to unbolt that lower bolt apply sealant and then tighten it back up without having to remove the whole timing belt?

Also, if I were to pour in some dye how am I supposed to spot the leak with the engine together? Are you guys unbolting the lower timing cover then putting back the serpentine belt and running the engine?

 

I would put the dye in 1st, drive it around for a day or so, then pull the timing cover. You will also have to pull the water pump pulley, crank pulley and move the power steering pump out of the way to get the lower cover off.

 

Thanks for the info. I think I am going to tackle this next weekend. I will put some dye in first and then drive it around a little then take the thing apart.

Hopefully I will be able to spot the leak and fix it without having to actually remove the timing belt. If I remove the tensioner but mark the belt and keep it tight I dont see why I would need to retime the whole thing. Obviously I will double check everything before I fire her up. Am I too optimistic to think that this can be done without removing the belt? I guess it depends where the source of the leak is. Im just feeling confident that its by the tensioner given the situation.

 

From the pictures posted, only intake runner #1 and #2 are wet with oil, correct?

 

Correct those two runners had more oil than the others. Im attributing that to my original catch can setup. As to why oil was more prevalent in those areas is beyond me though. Maybe it had something to do with the PCV being on that side and it not evacuating the crankcase pressure properly. Since then I changed to a Saikou Michi dual catch can setup.

Now I am trying to pinpoint this pesky oil leak which appears to be taking place somewhere behind the lower timing cover. Assuming the tensioner is leaking, is it possible to remove it without having to retime the belt again?

 

A tensioner does not contain that much oil to cause that big of a leak at the timing belt side. It may also be the oil pan, but you wouldnt be able to tell until you remove the timing belt cover.

 

Correct, the tensioner only contains a small amount of oil that wouldn't make a mess like that. Besides your timing belt would be loose making all kinds of noise. You don't need to remove the timing belt to pull the covers off and check for leaks. If one or more of the seals in there ARE leaking then the timing components would have to be removed.

 

By leaking tensioner I dont mean that the tensioner is faulty but rather that oil is seeping from one of the bolts that holds it on from not using sealant. I've had this issue for a while now so small leak or not the area will get gunked up more and more as time progresses.

The tension on my timing belt is fine and the car has been running strong for ~2 years since it was replaced.

Maybe it is the pan? I really need to get that lower cover off though to see what it reveals behind it. And I see what you're saying about leaky seals and the removal of the timing belt.

But if it were just the tensioner is it possible to simply remove that apply sealant to on of the bolts and reinstall it without having to retime the whole thing?

 

It sureis! Use the tensioner tool to compress it and pin it... Then back the tool off and pull off the tensioner... If the tension of the belt bites and you cant fit the tensioner back in then slightly losen the pulley and wiggle it on... As long as the belt doesnt jump it will go right back together... It you tag the pulleys and belt you can have a visual reference to show it didnt jump time

 

Awesome, thats exactly what I needed to hear, thanks! So I just ordered this kit: http://www.jayracing.com/timing-belt...kit-p-214.html

The plan is to pull it apart next weekend and see what I find. Thanks everyone for your advice I really appreciate it.

 

I pulled off the lower timing cover tonight to see if I can target the source of the oil. With the dye in the engine for 25 miles I was not able to spot any leaks under the UV light.

Now I am stumped as to where the oil is coming from. I pulled off both bolts from the tensioner and then applied threadlocker. I cant tell if that was the culprit. I attached some pictures so if anyone notices something please share it. The bolt in front on the tensioner had a little oil on it but I dont think that would have caused the entire mess.

 

Bumping this up. Under the lower timing cover did not reveal any sign as to the source of the leak...Where else could the oil be coming from? I am beyond stumped and getting ready to give up.

Im about ready to drop it off at my mechanic and have him figure it out. I just dont feel like spending $1000 on a stupid leak. Maybe I am better off forgetting about it and putting that money towards my new engine fund for a couple years down the road.

 

Are you 100% sure it's not leaking at the oil pan? If you put the dye in and went that far to find it and didn't find anything, put it back together and drive it until you rebuild it.

 

I am not sure to be 100% honest with you. All logic and reason is telling me to work my way down the engine starting at the VC then HG and so on and so forth until I get to the oil pan. While there is oil all over the pan that's to be expected due top gravity. Now maybe I have multiple leaks but if the oil pan were leaking it doesnt explain the oil residue over the rest of the block.

Im at a loss as it stands. I am not a mechanic but am quite capable of completing almost any task on these things. Where I struggle is in the diagnostic work such as this. I really really really want to find where the oil is getting out and fix it. My car is my DD but also gets driven hard on the weekend as I auto-x it. I am very strict (****) about the maintenance and do not like to take shortcuts.

As the car stands its sitting at 400/400 at the wheels on the stock turbo which is a good place to hold off on the stock block in terms of reliability. In maybe a couple years down the road I will build the block and upgrade the turbo which is why I question spending a large chunk of change having a mechanic fix it.

Thus, the best scenario is one where I can take care of it myself. Now if I could only find where the oil is getting out I would be golden.