thestig0711

iTrader: (1)

That my friend is a horrible sound to hear. I have heard it too often this year. Just heard it last night in a potential DD, same thing last week in a potential DD. Have fun with the build, spend some money and do it right the first time!!

clanzkiller

Ya indeed is a sign to spend money . And hopes that is related and cure the bad idling or else i will need to worry for it after the rebuild again.

clanzkiller

Long time didnt update this thread as i am busy with my work.
So after my engine rebuilt, break in for around 2000 km, and service, and go for a dyno tuning.

What i can only say is, the problem is still there! I am getting frustrated and seems like we all had no fking idea what is going wrong.

Even worse now is, if i left the car idle in neutral with AC on, leaving unattended, after a while, the RPM will fluctuate itself, or just shuf off itself like that without anyone inside or touching it! But i noticed this only happen when i drove the car after a while. It doesnt happen before when i am warming up my car.

Or, my idle will just drop to 500 and stay there for a like 10secs until the compressor stop running and go back to normal.

I am not sure if it has something to do with the AC compressor or related cause all the **** happened when AC is on. So far i have not touch/mod/fix any of the aircon part. My AC is cold like freezer. And the only thing ive done when i got the car 3 years back is to disconnect the heater (no winter in my country) and put a rubber stopper on it.

boostin4kix

I know I'm bringing back an old thread, but in case anybody is having any of these issues, here are a couple of things to check for. Knowing that these problems only seem to happen when the AC is on, I would check the AC compressor. I had a Honda a while ago where the ac was ice cold but the compressor was slightly seized and caused too much load on the engine. IIRC, I have also seen some cars that had a fluctuating idle where the cause was related to air in the coolant. Maybe the coolant system needs to be bled, or there is a leaking headgasket.

Clintosaraus

lightened fly wheels can cause it to stumble on decel and a misadjusted clutch could cause those problems if it's still trying to grab when you coming to a stop. try seeing if there is a dashpot adjustment in the tune

clanzkiller

Well, my engine bearing gone again last month and i had no choice but to buy a half cut engine (block & head) this time. So after a month passed, and finally i got my car yesterday. After driving around the street, my idle seems to be very stable now when AC is on. I try to drive normal (without pressing throttle when coming to a stop which i used to drive last time) and my idle drop exactly at 1k. And up to now, no bad idle sign. So i guess it must be something related to my old engine.
Lets see if it happen and i will report back again.

Forget to mention, all mods same with my previous engine except my old GSC S1 cam which is still with the old engine and plan to put it to my current one after a month driving or so.
I havent retune my ecu after the transplant so i am still using my previous ecu setting

Tommyfacekicker

I know this is old but did it happen again to your new engine after time has passed?

clanzkiller

Hi, as of now, the rpm still fluctuate and go down to close 500 when coming to a stop but it wont kill the engine.

Tommyfacekicker

Thanks I think mines was a bad tps and a bad iac. Also had bad throttle body leaks.

clanzkiller

Mine still does that probably because of the BOV tend to release a little in premature pressure....

RightSaid fred

No one has suggested to check the fuel pressure.

Bigger pump.......over run FPR.
Aftermarket FPR.....junk.