Yes, he is incorrect. You have it timed correctly.

You just have to think of it this way, The ONLY thing you are accounting for is the change in the length of the belt from the crank to the cam.

All you have to do is make sure the actual cams are straight up like factory. You do this by setting the middle mark on the cam gears to the mark on the valve cover. It doesn't matter where the indention is on the cam gear as all you care about is that the Cams and Crank are lined up.

The 3.75* thing is kinda stupid cause all engines are different, if you line the center mark up with the valve cover you are correct.

 

My bad. I was comparing to my engine when i looked at the pics. You are correct with setting the cams at 0*. Line up the inner mark with the valve cover. This is because I truly advanced my cams to get the most out of them. Since my engine is already running, it set the cams with the timing at 0* meaning the dots lines up with the cover. Then the cams were set 3.45 degrees advanced.

What cams are you running?

 

i have gsc s2's

 

and thanks everyone for their input!

 

You are probably going to advance the cams a few degrees to get the most out of them. With the 2.1, that thing can spin to 10K safely (with all the supporting mods) but this will also help spool depending on your turbo.

 

The Advance and Retard markings are wrong on those gears btw.

 

how are they wrong?

 

+ and - are on the wrong sides. Take a pic so we can see the cam gear dowels and which way they point.

 

they are pointing upwards, are they correct?

 

Hi man, I ask some question in your 4g64 biuld thread. I have the same problem like the OP. I use a 4g64 blocj and build 2.1.

My question is, with the complete engine mounted in the car, can Iuse the deegree wheel for set the cams? I ask this because, like you say before, every car is different, and I resurface the head .020 and use cometic head gasket, for that i canīt only retard 3.75* de gears.