Overheating w/ tubular manifold and half rad
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 957
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
Overheating w/ tubular manifold and half rad
I've been running a half radiator for about a year now with no problems of overheating. With my FF manifold on it's overheating now. I have a Buschur Racing half radiator with Russell Pro Classic -12 upper and lower radiator lines, my A/C is removed, and I have a DEI turbo blanket on also. So my mechanic wrapped my manifold, o2 housing, and downpipe. On top of that he's switching my -12 lines for the stock lines since they're bigger because Russell doesn't make Pro Classic -16 hose ends and I don't like the red/blue ends. What else can I do to mitigate the heat?
I've been running a half radiator for about a year now with no problems of overheating. With my FF manifold on it's overheating now. I have a Buschur Racing half radiator with Russell Pro Classic -12 upper and lower radiator lines, my A/C is removed, and I have a DEI turbo blanket on also. So my mechanic wrapped my manifold, o2 housing, and downpipe. On top of that he's switching my -12 lines for the stock lines since they're bigger because Russell doesn't make Pro Classic -16 hose ends and I don't like the red/blue ends. What else can I do to mitigate the heat?
Ask Chad Block at CBRD as his background covers much of ducting and heat / flow control for IMSA style racing.
My best guess is custom full radiator with relocation of everything and ducting to get the the air flow correct and temps in check
I always recommend keeping the hoses as big as possible- we did some half radiators with smaller AN hoses and it didnt do as well-
Also-
a full size rad is always going to perform better as its simply more core- and surface area to transfer heat-
but with the forward racing setup you are definetly limited for space- your other option is to go thicker- run a high CFM fan- and run the fan off of a relay triggered by coolant temp- NOT the factory controller-
cb
Also-
a full size rad is always going to perform better as its simply more core- and surface area to transfer heat-
but with the forward racing setup you are definetly limited for space- your other option is to go thicker- run a high CFM fan- and run the fan off of a relay triggered by coolant temp- NOT the factory controller-
cb
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 957
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
I always recommend keeping the hoses as big as possible- we did some half radiators with smaller AN hoses and it didnt do as well-
Also-
a full size rad is always going to perform better as its simply more core- and surface area to transfer heat-
but with the forward racing setup you are definetly limited for space- your other option is to go thicker- run a high CFM fan- and run the fan off of a relay triggered by coolant temp- NOT the factory controller-
cb
Also-
a full size rad is always going to perform better as its simply more core- and surface area to transfer heat-
but with the forward racing setup you are definetly limited for space- your other option is to go thicker- run a high CFM fan- and run the fan off of a relay triggered by coolant temp- NOT the factory controller-
cb
Also what radiator setup from your lineup would provide maximum cooling for really hot days sitting in traffic
Last edited by ch53avitech; Jun 19, 2013 at 09:23 AM.
Trending Topics
The factory tables can be changed to just about what ever you want. No point in getting rid of the controller when it simply needs some values changed.
The new forward facing setup (and I assume more boost and HP) didn't by change pop the head gasket and that's what is causing the issue now?
The new forward facing setup (and I assume more boost and HP) didn't by change pop the head gasket and that's what is causing the issue now?
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 957
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
The factory tables can be changed to just about what ever you want. No point in getting rid of the controller when it simply needs some values changed.
The new forward facing setup (and I assume more boost and HP) didn't by change pop the head gasket and that's what is causing the issue now?
The new forward facing setup (and I assume more boost and HP) didn't by change pop the head gasket and that's what is causing the issue now?
Yes, more boost and such. I got a new motor too which was being broken in using a new flash. My mechanic was experiencing the overheating just while breaking in the new motor.
I'm thinking you shouldn't be running around on a new motor or old motor with cooling issues. Was the head decked before it was put on? What motor, what head gasket. Might want to drop back to your previous setup to see if it overheats. Might be able to narrow down to the head gasket, tune, radiator setup.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 957
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
RallInspired and Robert.
Calli is sweet man. Its pretty nice here. I've actually had really good luck with the car here so far. This overheating is the first thing that's popped up in over a year. I think that's pretty good.
Calli is sweet man. Its pretty nice here. I've actually had really good luck with the car here so far. This overheating is the first thing that's popped up in over a year. I think that's pretty good.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 957
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
Seems like temps are in check for now. Wraped mani, o2 housing, and dump tube. Also went back to stock lines because they're bigger than my -12 ones. I plan on heat coating everything and switching to a CBRD rad with -16 lins in the future.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tim85851
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
290
Oct 15, 2016 10:36 PM







